sworaz

iTrader: (13)

I really want to see what this looks like but i can't find even one pic anywhere. Can someone help me out?

Turbo LS1 SS

iTrader: (7)

imagine the inner ring of a blancer hub with a hole in it. there is a bolt that goes through the hub, and through the crank.

or you can key it, which is just a slot (keyway) through the crank and the balancer, which a slab of metal keying them together

yotaman96

iTrader: (31)

Bad picture, but you can see the two drilled holes. Pins go in each and then you put the crank bolt in.

sworaz

iTrader: (13)

That must be the stock crank.
I've seen pics of the kit from ATI and it appears that you drill vertically through the crank snout. I've seen some others like your where you drill parallel with the crank. I don't quite get how that holds the ATI balancer on....because you don't drill into the balancer and I don't see a hole in the balancer where the pin goes into??

Jake@EPP

On a F-car you will drill the crank at 90deg angle. You will use a smaller pin and install the balancer onto the pin with the keyway.

the above picture is of a 6rib setup. They can be pinned from the front. The vette/gto is the same way.

sworaz

iTrader: (13)

So the pin does run parallel to the crank? Does the keyway in the ATI balancer hold the pin?

Jake@EPP

On the Fbody setup, the pin is basically a key for the keyway.

stevieturbo

Mine are drilled axially like this too. ( powerbond damper )

http://gallery112848.fotopic.net/p10290771.html

sworaz

iTrader: (13)

I see. So the pin doesn't actually go real far into the crank, just the end of the crank hub..? Or is the pin actually really long and fit the enitre length of the crank hub?
I don't get how this (pic below) can drill a hole for a pin parallel to the crank. It looks like it's made to drill vertically into the crank hub...

sworaz

iTrader: (13)

It looks like yours is just drilled into the very edge of the crank hub...what keeps the pin from falling off before you mount the pulley over it? I only ask because I was told that to do mine my balancer must be off but I just don't get how that is going to work. I'm getting so pissed with trying to understand this I'm considering just torquing the bolt down and being done with it.

Pat-Man

iTrader: (3)

Forgive me for sounding newbish...is the purpose of this just a safety precaution from your pulley walking off the crank snout? Just curious.

02402RAMAIR

iTrader: (8)

The pin kit above is for a F-body or vertical crank pin kit. You will put the fixture on the crank, hold it in place with the crank bolt, put your drill bit orifice in the fixture, drill thru crank half way till you hit the crank bolt. Take the drill orifice out and put in the reamer orifice in the fixture, ream the drilled hole according to the instructions. Unbolt the fixture. You will need to measure how long the pin needs to be and cut pin accordingly so it is seated fully into the drilled hole in the crank and sticking out the distance of the key way that is in the balancer.
(in a nutshell)

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

That's not the kit you want. You want the one that bolts in where the crank bolt would normally go, then there is a hole in it that you stick the drill bit through and it lines up half way on the crank and half way on the crank pulley. So when you drill, your drilling straight into the front hitting both. Then you take off the tool and put the pin in the hole you just drilled and bolt in the crank bolt, which also holds the pin in place. If you do it this way there is no way to break the pin and will not spin on the crank. I have heard of people useing the kit you pictured and pinning it twice and still breaking both pins. Do it right the first time. They should come with directions because it is a little tricky to figure out, and hard to explain without pics.

02402RAMAIR

iTrader: (8)

when you use the reamer. it will make the hole a slight bit smaller than the pin. Makes for a tight fit. I usually make the pin a little longer measuring it with the crank bolt in the crank. The bolt will keep the pin from moving down towards the center of the crank.

02402RAMAIR

iTrader: (8)

this is the other kit

sworaz

iTrader: (13)

Yes, this one makes sense to me. Kinda looks like this when it's done...?

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

Yep, that's the one you want.

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

Exactly.

sworaz

iTrader: (13)

This kit seems to make the most sense to me. Is that little silver piece the actual pin? Seems kinda small. Where did you get it and did it come with directions? I wonder if this would work with the ATI balancer...

02402RAMAIR

iTrader: (8)

If you have a forged crank you will have hell drilling into the hardened steel. I had to take a die grinder and grind away the coating off the area where it was to be drilled. About 0.020 will do.