candlelit

iTrader: (21)

Gas mileage and car payments take their toll on me, as well as it does to others. I had a 98 cam/heads/bolt on TA that got about 12mpg (45mph and under driving in town), and about 24mpg on the highway. I sold it and got an AWD v8 SUV that gets about the same gas mileage except worse (18mpg) on the highway. Car payment is higher too. Although it's classy & cozy.

My problem is I want to look/go fast again. This means getting rid of my SUV. I miss the feeling of shifting fast & smooth gears and driving a mean looking car. But it's not possible if I don't want a car payment & gas mileage problems.

Am I better off finding a great deal ($7000 or so) almost stock LS1 rather than a modded 12 second LS1 ($8500)? What kind of fuel mileage would I be giving up? Keep in mind my old mid sized cam LS1 got 12 here where I drive. What about a stock LS1 with intake, headers, exhaust? Is the extra $15/month for car payment & extra $ for gas worth having the modded mean power?

waldershrek

iTrader: (1)

I would stick with a stock car. I made the mistake of buying a modded car when I was younger and I'll never do it again. You never know what the previous owner(s) have done no matter what they tell you. Whether they just forget or lie about it either way you will find suprises which I don't like. Just my .02

qwk93ta

iTrader: (13)

I bought a 00 WS6 A4 four months ago and paid $14k for it. It is all stock with 47k on it. It gets between 18 and 19 MPG in mixed driving. I wanted a stock WS6 in excellent condition; I could have bought a modded car, but like the guy above said......you never know what the previous owners have done. I don't think you will find many LS1 cars in good condition for $7,000.....good luck.

LS1SS01

yeah, your prices don't quite seem realistic

Z Fury

iTrader: (1)

Yes. Stock all the way. Do the mods yourself, as money frees up, but don't buy a modded car unless you know absolutely everything about the car without asking (bought from a friend, or something like that).

PS - Your avatar makes me warm inside. Thank you.

candlelit

iTrader: (21)

I actually have came across a few really good deals on here in the past couple of years. I bought my 98 for $8500. and I just about bought a stock red-orange 98 TA for $6500. It's not always there's deals like that which is why I'll wait it out til I find the right one.

waldershrek

iTrader: (1)

^^^Absolutely, good things come to those who wait.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I try not to buy modded cars. There are only a few exceptions, like when you know the car well, or know the shop/person that did the work, etc.

For an unknown car/shop, I'd stay away from anything more than basic mods (lid/catback is fine).

Texfinn

iTrader: (39)

Just get yourself a stockish 98-99 M6 car and make sure everything is taken care of (oil, filters, plugs, wires etc.) and you'll get an easy 20+mpg on mixed driving. I'm getting 22-24mpg w/my TA in about 50/50 driving and 27+ on the highway.

Much of the mpg will, of course, depend on your right foot, so try not to gun it from every stoplight. Yeah, it's hard to resist, but it's not necessary.

But nobody buys these things for the mpg, anyway.

Yes you will.

Jakester136

Im glad I got a stocker when I bought mine. its like building from fresh, untouched material....Sometimes...LOL.
Anyway you should be able to find a decent car for $7000

BlackBADaSS02

iTrader: (17)

I would go with a stock car. You never really know what was done and who did the work with a modded car.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

What do you guys consider "decent"?

In my area, $7k gets you well over 100k miles, or lower miles in poor condition. And the problem with buying 100k+ mile cars in my region is that most of them are in poor condition cosmetically due to winter, regardless of how well the car runs.

I don't like to buy used cars with over 100k, unless I'm expecting it to be a project car or I'm already planning on repairs right away.

RiskyZ28

iTrader: (7)

buy a mostly stock car and add headers and exhaust and call it a day

Texfinn

iTrader: (39)

To each his/her own, of course. To me 100K is not a big issue, as long as everything on the car checks out fine. And as long as you are not expecting to buy a flawless vehicle.

If you are on a budget, a decent car, IMO, is something around 100K miles but still in good shape.

Sure, snow/salt etc. takes a toll on a vehicle, but there are still quite a few areas in the country where those are not a problem.

Case in point: A couple of weeks ago I bought a 98 M6 TA w/117K miles from a member on this board (it was for sale in the classifieds here) and drove it from Florida to Texas without a hitch. Car has only a few minor scratches, new clutch/master/slave, new brakes, no weird noises, clean CarFax, clean interior, WS6 hood, almost new tires, does not leak any fluids etc. etc.

For $7K I think that was a pretty good buy.

qwk93ta

iTrader: (13)

I agree....I wanted a car that someone took care of. Garaged, oil changed, regular maintenance and when I opened the hood on the car it looked as clean as the rest of the car.

landonew

I agree, but it seems as if your DD is an SUV. If the m6 breaks then you still have a ride to work/pick up your kids from school. This guy is talking about buying a car tht will constitute his main and likely only vehicle. I would never rely on a car w/ a 100K+ miles on it as my primary transportation (unless it was a diesel pickup). OP, I would say stick w/ your SUV and save your money until you can afford a 2nd car, which will be your toy. If you like shifting gears, and want better gas mileage, do what my buddy did and get yourself a little 4 cylinder tiberon. 10 year/100K mile warranty and 32+mpg.

Texfinn

iTrader: (39)

Actually..., I currently have two M6 TA's (98 and 99) and the 99 is my daily driver. I'm driving 300-500 miles each week with it. My wife drives the Expedition.

I'm not always going to have two F-bodys, and most of the time during the last 10+ years I have relied on an F-body as my daily transportation. And they haven't always been low mile ones, either (LT1's and LS1's). And none of them have ever let me down. Not even once.

But like I said, to each his/her own.

chromeplated500

iTrader: (10)

+1 on that. because you never know whats been done. what hasnt, and what 12year old did the work.

Jakester136

Like they say 100,000 is the new 20,000.... I know you dont want too but If you step it up to about the $9,000-10,000 range you can get a really nice one

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

I DD'd my old blue TA (h/c 98 LS1) everyday until 156k when I sold it, it never flinched, never an issue. It always started right up, never got stranded with it or anything. Now the white TA has 101k on it, H/C makes more power, and zero issues with that car. Its all in how they were treated.