chris3113

iTrader: (8)

i have a ls7 clutch pressure plate and flywheel on my f-body and the clutch is grabbing way to low and i am not sure if the slave cylinder needs a spacer or if i need a slave cylinder off of a ls7 tranny if anyone knows please let me know!!!

THEBRAD

iTrader: (3)

im about 98% positive u need the ls7 slave my friend has the ls7 clutch and he had to get the ls7 slave

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

The LS7 slave IS NOT required. Any LS1 slave will work and you might try bleeding it first and see if it helps. These clutches do engage low until it is broke in

SladeX

The LS7 clutch with LS2 flywheel on a LS1 F-body requires the standard LS1 slave. The last updated version of the slave is for the 01-02 years and any GM dealer will have or should be able to get one easily.

The LS7 clutch DOES grab down low initially. It will take a few hundred miles of stop/go city type driving to get it to "come up". After 20k on my LS7 clutch setup with 01-02 hydraulics, my clutch grabs around the 65% release point. When I first took it off the lift when I installed it, it was just right off the floor.

No shims are required for this clutch.

I used a stock 98 master with mine for 6 months, then upgraded and did the drill mod on a 01-02 model master later. Very little change in pedal travel, at the time it probably "reset" itself back to 50% release from 60% release, noticable but it's self adjusting.

I would suggest bleeding your hydraulics if any issues arise other than a low pedal release.

chris3113

iTrader: (8)

thanks it grabs all the way on the floor it pulls the car when you start it. ive bled it all the way out a couple of times. but from what im understanding i need a 01-02 slave??

88zukon36s

iTrader: (5)

after you get a few miles on it go out and run it hard it will start to come up, something with the self adjustment. i put 75 miles on mine then started running it hard its been great ever since.

chris3113

iTrader: (8)

but it is a used pressure plate! wouldnt it already be broke in? could the pressure plate be bad?

robertbartsch

I did the drill mod with a new master, slave, PP, clutch, LS2 flywheel. I did not notice any floor grabbing initially but others here seem to notice this.

Did you do the drill mod?

chris3113

iTrader: (8)

im still a little confused instead of getting better its got a little worse. ive bled several times no air! and isnt leaking fluid! and i have a new slave! besides a bad pressure plate what could it possibly be???

badpewter-z

iTrader: (4)

has the clutch ever been replaced in the car before?
sounds like thee is a shim in there. it shouldn't be close to the floor but if its not fully disengaging at all there is defiently an issue

chris3113

iTrader: (8)

there shouldnt be a shim anywhere it has a new slave and pilot bearing. thats why it has me so confused!

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

As an early adopter, I chose to pull the tranny again and install a slave shim. I didn't want to risk damaging the tranny with clutch engagement problems. But I wouldn't allow me to shift into gear with the engine running which appears to be worse than your symptoms.

Emfuser

I'm running an LS7 clutch / LS2 flywheel combo with a just rebuilt t56 from SSI. I put both in about 6k miles ago along with a fresh 01-02 slave cylinder. The shifting is pretty notchy and will actually crunch when cold. I figured that I needed to mod the master cyl to be adjustable but from what I'm reading here it could just be air in the system preventing me from fully disengaging the clutch and getting a smooth shift.

Thoughts?

SladeX

most of the problems people face with clutch not disengaging properly can be attributed to air in the system.

I bench bled my master after doing the drill mod. I have my old slave which makes it really easy. After I thought I had it done, I didn't reinstall it, but rather I let it "hang" over night as I was tired and it was getting late. In the morning I found the reservoir half full of air. So to recap, even when you think you have all the air out, the design of the damn thing doesn't allow the air an easy path out.

Bleed, bleed again, keep bleeding beyond what you feel is "ok". You should be able to "hear" the clutch snap back and make a slap sound as the pressure plate gaps itself from the clutch then a slip of the pedal snaps it back together. Use a combination of rangers crazy pump method and a full 2 person bleed to really get out the air. A mityvac may do it as well, but I've always been skeptical of that since reading a few vacuum horror stories and my own clutch never had a problem with a traditional bleed.