Kenny H

Ok guys, you know the deal. I picked up an auto '02 Z in December and its a virgin car. As I plot my moves, I do not want to do things twice. The 4L60 is basically junk if I'm going to make this car somewhat quick, which I think I will do. I can go out and spend $800 on a Yank and transcooler right now for the 4L60 or....should I just do the bolt-ons first and save my pennies and go right for a 4L80 out of a Chevy can or whatever. If the 4l60 is going to crap out of on me for sure, and its going to be $1500 to get it rebuilt nicely along with the $800 convertor I will buy, why not just opt for the 4L80 right from the start?

Thoughts??

I will not do a 3 speed. I want to be able to drive this thing anywhere anytime I want and no overdrive would annoy me. Thoughts??

JS

iTrader: (4)

U call Rodney at RPM and have him build u a 4L60E along with a VIG and Cooler and the car will be fine...

U dont need a 80e......

RamAir02TA77

iTrader: (3)

I would do a 4l80e right from the start just spend the money the first time IMO 60e's are junk 3-4 clutch pack sucks and if you plan on racing it alot they will wear out quick and need to be freshened up alot. The 4l80e is a pretty straight forward swap and the trans fits nice. I finally got mine in and im still working a few adjustments like the pinion angle is off alittle and for some reason the shifter console lights arent working for some reason. Also the lockup is alittle different on on 80e. I have pictures posted in the auto section.

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

4l80 is heavier but for what you want to do with the car it's probably worth it.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

If you plan on making some good power in the future the 4L80 is the way to go. 4L60's just break,matter how long they last till they do.

Kenny H

Thanks for the advice. I did some searching last night and I can pick-up a 4L80 out of a chevy van for ~ $800 or so. I'm sure I'd be looking at another $800 to beef it up, and wish r&r I'd be somewhere around $2k, and if my 4L60 is still decent I should be able to sell that and offset the cost a bit.

As far as power I had thought I would stay cam-only but heads are so cheap now that I'd probably end up doing heads, even if they are just touched up Z06 heads for cheap. And then probably a shot....

RamAir02TA77

iTrader: (3)

Yea if I had to do it again I would of went 4l80e right from the start. Back when I got my 4l60e rebuilt there wasnt that much info on putting a 4l80e in or else I probably would of done that from the start.

JS

iTrader: (4)

What are the goals for the car 11.90 to 11.40 or 10.90 to 10.00?

I dont care what everyone is telling u,If u are only looking for a mid 11 Sec to high 10 Sec car the 4L60E is more than capable with a quality build....I ran my car over 200 passes on one from 11.40 to 10.80 and it never broke a part.

Rodney can help u,just call him
He wont streer u wrong.

Kenny H

Who did your trans? No quicker than high 10s....and I don't goto the track much anymore so it wouldn't get ragged on all the time. I was thinking maybe heads/cam & a small shot or a cam and a larger shot....high 10s @ ~124 MPH would be fine....?

JS

iTrader: (4)

Did u say nitrous...I would go 4L80E
No spray and low 11's I'd go 4L60E all the way..

JG Trans did mine and it was perfect
Vacum mod/Trans go/Deep pan and good clutches...

LS1LT1

iTrader: (16)

I do love the idea (and strength) of a 4L80E but have to agree with JS on this.
Years ago it wasn't all that easy to find a great tranny builder who knew exactly how to make a 4L60E strong and reliable for repeated abuse with some power behind it but finally over the past couple of years they've found a way to pull it off.
Using a 4L80E comes with it's own set of drawbacks such as PCM/electronic compatability, extra weight and cost.

I truly believe that a properly built and well cooled 4L60E with a known/brand name torque converter can hold well over 450rwhp in a stock weight (or lighter) Z28 and run high 10s all day long without giving up.

JS

iTrader: (4)

I totally agree

JammerII

iTrader: (1)

I had 3 sponsers 4l60s then i dopped bucks at Level ten in NJ... it came with promises or grandor..and an unlimited miles one year warranty...I'll let you know how it works with 850 rwhp and slicks in a few months when snow melts. I can tell you I spent damn near $5k with the converter...twice that of most sponsers best...why? Because I intend to see it break at least 3-4 times this year. If it doesnt, great..either way I got my moneys worth. Yes, this was frivilous and too much to spend,,, but I like to prove people wrong..and alot of locals said that they would make one I wont break. I think all of us here know it will.

In 2000 miles I have had 5 4l60s...with the biggest tire being a ET Street radial 275/17

RamAir02TA77

iTrader: (3)

Lol yea it will probably break but maybe ull get lucky I think the 4l60e's are junk and if you plan on racing I would do an 80e right from the start. Its not to much more to put an 80e in if there was more info on it I would of done that right from the start. Even stock 80e's are real strong so if you didnt have the money to get built right away just get a good working one.

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

If you wanna break into the 10's constantly just get the 4l80E. mid-low 11's a 4l60E will do ok. If if you plan on making close to or over 500 get the 4l80E.

VIPRETR2

iTrader: (63)

I dunno man, if anyone could build a bulletproof 4L60/700R4 the SYTY guys would know. Nobody with any sense builds a 4l60/700R4 in a SYTY, they all go 4L80. They just can't take the abuse, it might last a few seasons but if you want to do it right get the 4L80.

Larry

JS

iTrader: (4)

Level 10 oh no your in trouble.....
I said it once and I will say it again RPM TRANSMISSIONS..

Kenny H

Eh, as much as a 10 second car would be neat, I have to be realistic. Its cold and I have cabin fever. Come the spring/summer I'll be looking to get a boat and the car wil be on the back burner. I think I'll stay with the 60E and just stick to my initial plan of bolt-ons....and maybe a mid sized cam. Am I better off just having the tranny pulled and having it beefed up now....or should I wait until something happens?

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

my stock tranny with shift kit and 3500 stall, lasted for 50,000 miles. I ran mid 11's with it and tons of low 12 second passes. Once you start scratching 11's start saving up


Actually my tranny was flawless, I just smoked the 3/4 clutch pack. I wish you could just replace the clutch pack without tearing the whole damn thing apart.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

For the cost of rebuilds, which ive done not once, but TWICE, go 4L80E, bullet proofing the drivetrain is the #1 priority.