Nitrous Oxide - nitrous issues




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Ruckus46Gt
01-26-2008, 04:33 PM
Had issue nitrous cutting out, it would spray 2nd and then cut out and stay off. It also wouldnt spray out of the hole. I have no idea if my fpss was cutting the nitrous off, if the interface controller was, or what but i'm not happy. Spraying the one gear here is the slip
60'.....1.832
330....5.034
1/8....7.772
mph...89.005
1000..10.097
1/4....12.189
mph...111.382
i have no idea whats going on have a week to figure it out
I double checked on my nitrous outlet window switch followed the instructions and have it on 0 so it will not do first gear lockout and have it spraying from 030 to 058. I am pissed as hell . Car just made 415/450 on a 100 shot and picked up .3 with no traction issues at the track. HELP


jmill96Z
01-26-2008, 05:41 PM
First thing I would check when you fight an intermitant problem, it is usually a ground or the WOT switch. Check your WOT switch and make sure it is being engaged. Where is it mounted? If that is good, jumper the FPSS. Have you verified the fuel pressure is actually good? Time to go through and make sure all of your grounds are tight

GT Griller
01-26-2008, 05:48 PM
Im gonna say its in the window switch or the FPSS.....cauase its not really intermitent, it sprays consistantly thru 2nd gear....so eitehr ur setting are off some how or ur fuel pressure is not safe in first or 3rd.


Ruckus46Gt
01-26-2008, 06:32 PM
think i might have fixed the issue either that or for some reason i just stalled it up on the street went full throttle and as soon as it flashed to 3k the nitrous kicked in and stayed in through all the gear. only thing i did was move a ground, before the switch panel ground and window switch ground were the same. i'm debating on going back to the track tonight but dont think thats the issue. what do you think worked fine on the dyno...but then again thats one gear only
i'm running nitrous outlets trick window switch with tps activation

GT Griller
01-26-2008, 06:42 PM
Go the track and give it another go....aparantly it had soemthing to do with the grounds....im thinking it was throwing off the window switch.

Ruckus46Gt
01-26-2008, 06:45 PM
Go the track and give it another go....aparantly it had soemthing to do with the grounds....im thinking it was throwing off the window switch.

i'm going to do that and as far as fpss if i want to not use it only thing i have to change wire wise is combine the wires on both sides of the fpss instead of having them run through it correct? fuel is not an issue i'm pumping 10.8 af ratio across the board so i know its getting fuel even if it leans out up top it would really have to lean out and lean out quick. I'm only spraying a 100 shot

jmill96Z
01-26-2008, 08:20 PM
Yeah, just connect the wires giong to the FPSS. I think you've got it figured out though.

GT Griller
01-26-2008, 08:30 PM
i'm going to do that and as far as fpss if i want to not use it only thing i have to change wire wise is combine the wires on both sides of the fpss instead of having them run through it correct? fuel is not an issue i'm pumping 10.8 af ratio across the board so i know its getting fuel even if it leans out up top it would really have to lean out and lean out quick. I'm only spraying a 100 shot

Just let us know how u do!!!

Ruckus46Gt
01-27-2008, 12:58 AM
got the car to spray out of the hole but then stopped spraying, went 12.10@111.4(well sprayed right after the 60'), next run i sprayed it right out of the hole stalled the car up a little more and car was all over the play and went 1.90 60' spinning like crazy and goign sideways let off got back in it and car went 12.4@110. 90 rwhp and 120 rwtq without traction issues should pick up more then 2.5 mph. i have no idea whats wrong right now. My grounds good on the switch pannel , grounds good on the window switch watched the switch on a run and it stayed on the hole time. Ground on the noids is good its the same ground my purge uses and that my fuel noid uses (shock bolt under the hood). I even tried diff bottle pressures 850/900/950/1000 no luck same results. I'm wondering if the hsw interface is cutting the system off. Not sure how to check that. Like i said earlier i am no longer running a fpss currently

jmill96Z
01-27-2008, 01:07 AM
If the interface were shutting the system off, it would set a check engine light. What size of stall do you have?

2002t/a06
01-27-2008, 01:45 AM
he has a 3000. at least he didnt blow his motor like i did tonight.

jmill96Z
01-27-2008, 02:07 AM
WTF Happened?!?!?!

GT Griller
01-27-2008, 02:28 AM
got the car to spray out of the hole but then stopped spraying, went 12.10@111.4(well sprayed right after the 60'), next run i sprayed it right out of the hole stalled the car up a little more and car was all over the play and went 1.90 60' spinning like crazy and goign sideways let off got back in it and car went 12.4@110. 90 rwhp and 120 rwtq without traction issues should pick up more then 2.5 mph. i have no idea whats wrong right now. My grounds good on the switch pannel , grounds good on the window switch watched the switch on a run and it stayed on the hole time. Ground on the noids is good its the same ground my purge uses and that my fuel noid uses (shock bolt under the hood). I even tried diff bottle pressures 850/900/950/1000 no luck same results. I'm wondering if the hsw interface is cutting the system off. Not sure how to check that. Like i said earlier i am no longer running a fpss currently

Do u have the noids grounded at the same place? try having a seperate ground for each one.

GT Griller
01-27-2008, 02:29 AM
WTF Happened?!?!?!

WERD what happened

jmill96Z
01-27-2008, 02:44 AM
I'm debating in whether he should bypass the window switch for a run or two. It's weird that it only sprays at a certain time, in a certain gear. Two times to the track, 2 different gears.

myfast70
01-27-2008, 08:47 AM
he has a 3000. at least he didnt blow his motor like i did tonight.

How the hell did you do that? You've got a forged/iron block setup, that sucks. :bang: What blew, what blew?





Could it possibly be a TPS activation wire problem? If the signal is not a good one due to a bad connection or something that would make things work intermittingly and come on and off at random.

2002t/a06
01-27-2008, 10:00 AM
i think i threw a rod. it happened on my first n/a pass of the night. ill prolly just have it towed to top gear and try and figure something out. this really fuckin sucks. it was my daily driver :mad:

Ruckus46Gt
01-27-2008, 11:31 AM
already have a check engine light from my 02's with the lt's so not sure if i'm throwing another code. Ground for the purge and nitrous are on one shock tower bolt fuel noid is on another shock tower bolt other side of the car. car has a 3k stall not sure on the str. the tps sensor is tapped right at the computer. As of now i have the car spraying down low if i stall it up like i do n/a it takes a sec doesnt spray right out of the hole. If i stall it up higher to like 2k it hits out of the hole. The first runs this morning i was stalling up lower then normal figureing i was going to bake the tires off. Anyways basically its not spraying up top it seems like , on every run and my mphs show it seems like my system gives the initial hit and then boom it done shuts off

Matt@HSW
01-27-2008, 11:59 AM
Scan your codes in the PCM and see what they are. Make sure the window switch is not cutting off as that will trigger the Interface off and shut down the system. 10.8 is pretty rich, you can lean it out a bit (try to shoot for 11.8). You are running the plate as a wet kit correct? If you are you don't need to add much, if any, fuel via the Interface (I think I read somewhere you had it set at a 80 shot or something). Is the FPSS bypassed?

Matt

Ruckus46Gt
01-27-2008, 12:32 PM
Scan your codes in the PCM and see what they are. Make sure the window switch is not cutting off as that will trigger the Interface off and shut down the system. 10.8 is pretty rich, you can lean it out a bit (try to shoot for 11.8). You are running the plate as a wet kit correct? If you are you don't need to add much, if any, fuel via the Interface (I think I read somewhere you had it set at a 80 shot or something). Is the FPSS bypassed?

Matt

right now i have it at a 55 shot fuel on the 100 shot pill my fuel was below 10.0 so used the interface. On 75 my af was 10.5, on 85 it was like a 10.3-10.1. any easy way to check to make sure the window switch isnt cutting off? the fpss is bypassed brown wire goes directly to the relay

myfast70
01-27-2008, 05:28 PM
Have you thought about disconnecting one electrical item at a time until the issue is resolved. IE... start with the FPSS (as suggested above) then remove the window switch and manually arm/disarm, then remove the interface and see what happens next. What made you get the interface with your wet setup? Was it just simply for timing? Are you changing the shot size thru the interface to achieve the AFR you want? I know that's what they're designed for but the old reliable jet should net you the same results.

Ruckus46Gt
01-27-2008, 07:34 PM
yea using interface to pull timing and get the af better right now for a 100 shot i have the interface jetted at a 55 shot , dont even have a pill to go that low.

myfast70
01-27-2008, 08:04 PM
yea using interface to pull timing and get the af better right now for a 100 shot i have the interface jetted at a 55 shot , dont even have a pill to go that low.

Not to sound stupid, but what do you mean by you "have the interface jetted for a 55 shot" ? :confused: From my understanding, the interface does not adjust the actual size of the shot or am I wrong? Why not just set it for the actual jets that you're running? Do you have a wideband? If so, what were your readings when on the jug? Have you tried to run any of the built in diagnostics of the interface?

Ruckus46Gt
01-27-2008, 08:30 PM
with the interface you put what size shot your running instead of changine out the fuel pills you can change it by adjusting a setting in the interface. I didnt have time on the dyno to change the pill out and adjusted it thise way. Dont currently have a wideband. Have to check to see if i threw a code to see if the itnerface is cutting the spray otu

myfast70
01-27-2008, 10:21 PM
I went to HSW's website and briefly read thru the instructions and found that there are three LED's used for troubleshooting and checking the unit for proper operation. I guess there are a few dip switches that you use and move to certain postitions to check. I know the interface will also throw codes to the PCM but I think the built in stuff is to verify things are hooked up correctly. Just a suggestion.

383LQ4SS
01-27-2008, 10:57 PM
right now i have it at a 55 shot fuel on the 100 shot pill my fuel was below 10.0 so used the interface. On 75 my af was 10.5, on 85 it was like a 10.3-10.1. any easy way to check to make sure the window switch isnt cutting off? the fpss is bypassed brown wire goes directly to the relay

Wait a minute...maybe I am reading wrong...but you say that your plate kit run as is was at 10 to 1 AF? Are you saying that with the interface set at 0 added fuel...just running the correct fuel and nitrous pills in the plate kit you are at 10 to 1 AF?

If that is correct...wont adding another 55 with the interface actually make you run more like 8 or 9 to 1 AF?

How did you check your AF initially?

It was my understanding that the interface could only ADD fuel from 5-300 or so hp. That would be added fuel?

So if you were 10 to 1 on your wet plate kit and added 55 or more fuel via the interface you must be off the scale rich??

But maybe I am just reading your post wrong? But if you are adding 55 HP worth of fuel via the interface on a kit that was running 10.0 to 1 you will be barely making it down the track.

Ruckus46Gt
01-27-2008, 11:27 PM
Wait a minute...maybe I am reading wrong...but you say that your plate kit run as is was at 10 to 1 AF? Are you saying that with the interface set at 0 added fuel...just running the correct fuel and nitrous pills in the plate kit you are at 10 to 1 AF?

If that is correct...wont adding another 55 with the interface actually make you run more like 8 or 9 to 1 AF?

How did you check your AF initially?

It was my understanding that the interface could only ADD fuel from 5-300 or so hp. That would be added fuel?

So if you were 10 to 1 on your wet plate kit and added 55 or more fuel via the interface you must be off the scale rich??

But maybe I am just reading your post wrong? But if you are adding 55 HP worth of fuel via the interface on a kit that was running 10.0 to 1 you will be barely making it down the track.

yes you can add fuel with the interface but you can also set it to "change the fuel pill" without actually taking the pill out, get what i'm saying? My af was off the chart with the interface set on like it should have been, you put in the interface what shot you are running at the time it was a 100 shot and my af was off the chart below 10, so then i changed the interface to 85 and it came up on the graph above 10, then i changed it to 75 and it leaned it out a little more (10.5 across the board), then i moved it to 55 to get it in the low 11 a/f range. On the pull with fuel on a 75 it made 90rwhp 120rwtq, didnt pull it on the 55

383LQ4SS
01-27-2008, 11:47 PM
My af was off the chart with the interface set on like it should have been, you put in the interface what shot you are running at the time it was a 100 shot and my af was off the chart below 10, so then i changed the interface to 85 and it came up on the graph above 10, then i changed it to 75 and it leaned it out a little more (10.5 across the board), then i moved it to 55 to get it in the low 11 a/f range. On the pull with fuel on a 75 it made 90rwhp 120rwtq, didnt pull it on the 55


I didnt think you could adjust fuel to run leaner via the interface...only add fuel?
You are running a wet kit correct? If so and you have the correct fuel jet what did you get for AF with the interface set at 0 or no fuel added. Why would you have to add 100...or even 55 hp of fuel via the interface if the kit had a fuel jet for 100 hp? I am not getting how you are set up here?


Anyways...did your pull on the dyno seem normal? Made power at the exact on/off points of the window switch? Can you post a graph?

The shock towers may not be the best place for a ground. You may want to test your connection to see if you have high resistance there using a multimeter and set it to ohms. If its high resistnace swap to an actual ground such as on the left or right side of the radiator supports or take some paint off under the shock towers to ensure a very good ground.

What are your plugs gapped at and what kind are they?

Bottle pressure during the runs?

You may want to hook up a test light so you can see that the noids are or arent getting power when it feels like it stops spraying. That will enable you to pin it down to the kit...or the car. if the light goes out as the power dies...its obviously with window switch, TPS, noids, grounds, interface, line blockage etc.
If the light stays on and power drops off it is something with the car such as too large a plug gap causing spark to blow out on a cylinder or two, issue with the car causing power drop off, SES, plug wire arcing under heavy load.

You are absolutely sure your bottle has juice right?:nod: Gotta ask ya know:D

myfast70
01-28-2008, 12:26 AM
yes you can add fuel with the interface but you can also set it to "change the fuel pill" without actually taking the pill out, get what i'm saying? My af was off the chart with the interface set on like it should have been, you put in the interface what shot you are running at the time it was a 100 shot and my af was off the chart below 10, so then i changed the interface to 85 and it came up on the graph above 10, then i changed it to 75 and it leaned it out a little more (10.5 across the board), then i moved it to 55 to get it in the low 11 a/f range. On the pull with fuel on a 75 it made 90rwhp 120rwtq, didnt pull it on the 55

Isn't the interface made for DRY systems? If you have it set up for a 100 shot, I would think that it as adding fuel for a 100 DRY shot thus causing your AFR to be way off the charts like you mentioned :bang: Why don't you try running the system without the interface hooked up and see what happens. I'm not blaming it on the Interface but if you are using it in a different manner/install than it was meant for could be causing you most of the problems that you're having. Is my thinking way off here 383LQ4SS? I thought you also mentioned in another thread that you had Nic D put a nitrous tune on the car? If so, there should really be no reason to pull additional timing. The Interface seems like overkill for your install. You need to make a dyno pull without the Interface and stock jetting for a 100 shot and then see what your AFR is. I bet it is where it needs to be or damn close. Don't take this personally, but it seems like an installation issue. You've had quite a few issues from the get go.

Ruckus46Gt
01-28-2008, 12:36 AM
interface is made for wet and dry system it shines more in a dry system but can be used for either. Nicd didnt put a nytrious tune on the car just pulled 2 degrees out of the existing tune. I only had one issue from the get go and that was the switch panel other then that havent had an issue at all until this.

383LQ4SS
01-28-2008, 12:44 AM
yeah you can use the interface for wet or dry. I believe you can subtract fuel but only using the top end +/- add or subtract feature.

But for the shot size I belive you can only add fuel.

Hopefully the HSW guys will chime in here.

So what you MIGHT try is just to set the interface to no fuel added and run the correct fuel and nitrous jets the way a normal wet kit is run. of course at this point that would be nice to do on a dyno with a wideband.

You may simply be wayyy to rich and the nitrous surging a generally running like ass.

Atleast that would be something to explore.

myfast70
01-28-2008, 06:33 AM
I know it can be used for either but was thinking that there was too much fuel being added.

Matt@HSW
01-28-2008, 10:15 AM
What I get from his post is this, Ruckus46Gt please let me know if this is correct or not.

Ruckus46Gt has the kit set up like a wet kit; with the correct fuel jet installed for the size shot he is running (100 shot). He then set the Interface for a 100 shot, so he was basically dumping in twice the amount of fuel needed for that 100 shot; hence the super rich A/F. Ruckus46Gt then started to under jet the Interface so he could lean it out to 10.8 A/F. From reading though the posts it looks like Ruckus46Gt never made a pull with just the wet kit (IE the Interface set to 0 for the jetting). Is that correct so far?

On the dyno the system was fine in the one gear, correct? At the track the system is activating once, but not again after that, correct?

Matt


I didnt think you could adjust fuel to run leaner via the interface...only add fuel?
You are running a wet kit correct? If so and you have the correct fuel jet what did you get for AF with the interface set at 0 or no fuel added. Why would you have to add 100...or even 55 hp of fuel via the interface if the kit had a fuel jet for 100 hp? I am not getting how you are set up here?


Anyways...did your pull on the dyno seem normal? Made power at the exact on/off points of the window switch? Can you post a graph?

The shock towers may not be the best place for a ground. You may want to test your connection to see if you have high resistance there using a multimeter and set it to ohms. If its high resistnace swap to an actual ground such as on the left or right side of the radiator supports or take some paint off under the shock towers to ensure a very good ground.

What are your plugs gapped at and what kind are they?

Bottle pressure during the runs?

You may want to hook up a test light so you can see that the noids are or arent getting power when it feels like it stops spraying. That will enable you to pin it down to the kit...or the car. if the light goes out as the power dies...its obviously with window switch, TPS, noids, grounds, interface, line blockage etc.
If the light stays on and power drops off it is something with the car such as too large a plug gap causing spark to blow out on a cylinder or two, issue with the car causing power drop off, SES, plug wire arcing under heavy load.

You are absolutely sure your bottle has juice right?:nod: Gotta ask ya know:D

Ruckus46Gt
01-28-2008, 10:55 AM
What I get from his post is this, Ruckus46Gt please let me know if this is correct or not.

Ruckus46Gt has the kit set up like a wet kit; with the correct fuel jet installed for the size shot he is running (100 shot). He then set the Interface for a 100 shot, so he was basically dumping in twice the amount of fuel needed for that 100 shot; hence the super rich A/F. Ruckus46Gt then started to under jet the Interface so he could lean it out to 10.8 A/F. From reading though the posts it looks like Ruckus46Gt never made a pull with just the wet kit (IE the Interface set to 0 for the jetting). Is that correct so far?

On the dyno the system was fine in the one gear, correct? At the track the system is activating once, but not again after that, correct?

Matt

that is correct matt, should the jettings be at 0 i thought from the sound of it whatever shot you are running your supposed to put that in the jet box, or is that only for a dry shot. kit is the 78mm wet plate kit

Mike@HSW
01-28-2008, 11:29 AM
that is correct matt, should the jettings be at 0 i thought from the sound of it whatever shot you are running your supposed to put that in the jet box, or is that only for a dry shot. kit is the 78mm wet plate kit

Thats correct, thats only on a dry kit. If you jet your wet plate for a 100 shot and you find yourself lean, then you can up the interface to add addition fuel. On a wet kit you would have to under jet the plate to allow yourself A/F adjustments in either direction. This is the reason why you were pig rich on the dyno.

Ruckus46Gt
01-28-2008, 11:51 AM
Thats correct, thats only on a dry kit. If you jet your wet plate for a 100 shot and you find yourself lean, then you can up the interface to add addition fuel. On a wet kit you would have to under jet the plate to allow yourself A/F adjustments in either direction. This is the reason why you were pig rich on the dyno.

gotcha also could this be the reason why the car just isnt hitting up top

383LQ4SS
01-28-2008, 12:45 PM
gotcha also could this be the reason why the car just isnt hitting up top

Its possible. If your f was at 10.8...and then you wnet leaner still to say 11.0 you should be able to get down the track just fine...maybe not the best Af ratio for performance on a 100 shot...but you should be able to get down the track ok and pick up more than a few mph.

Really...it would be best if you went back to the dyno to do sme pulls with the interface set to 0 so you can see where your wet kit is actually going to start out at. There is a very good chance you will be able to run it as is with no help from the interface. And if you just need a little from the interface you will know. But dont stop making pulls until you are in the 11.5-11.9 range. Thats all you need for a 100 shot.

One other question...what plugs do you have and what gap? This is very important...especially if you are running very rich. You can blow out the spark very easy on a rich tune if your plugs arent gapped pretty tight....even on a 100 shot.

Anyways..i think youll get it squared away...just takes a little patience. you have alot of stuff you put on all at once. Its not uncommon to have to tweak things a bit. Good luck.

bad6as
01-28-2008, 01:21 PM
so you had the the kit spraying n20 and fuel for a 100 shot and the interface you had set to add fuel for a 100 shot. so you had fuel for a 200 shot

Ruckus46Gt
01-28-2008, 01:21 PM
i am running tr6's with a .35 gap. Going to pull one or two tomorrow to see how they look

Ruckus46Gt
01-28-2008, 01:22 PM
so you had the the kit spraying n20 and fuel for a 100 shot and the interface you had set to add fuel for a 100 shot. so you had fuel for a 200 shot

fuel for a 155 shot actually it sounds like. Like i just said i'm going to pull a plug tomorrow see how it looks and then try to get back on the dyno and see how the a/f looks when its at 0. Dumping all that fuel in maybe it was hitting all the way down but it was just running so rich it really wasnt performing :bang:

myfast70
01-28-2008, 02:08 PM
What I get from his post is this, Ruckus46Gt please let me know if this is correct or not.

Ruckus46Gt has the kit set up like a wet kit; with the correct fuel jet installed for the size shot he is running (100 shot). He then set the Interface for a 100 shot, so he was basically dumping in twice the amount of fuel needed for that 100 shot; hence the super rich A/F. Ruckus46Gt then started to under jet the Interface so he could lean it out to 10.8 A/F. From reading though the posts it looks like Ruckus46Gt never made a pull with just the wet kit (IE the Interface set to 0 for the jetting). Is that correct so far?

On the dyno the system was fine in the one gear, correct? At the track the system is activating once, but not again after that, correct?

Matt

That's what I was trying to say in my above post. He was giving fuel for a 200 shot when he was only running a 100 shot. A simple user error mistake! :D

Ruckus46Gt
01-28-2008, 03:07 PM
so back to the dyno this week to see what it does with it set to 0. Lets say its a little to lean can i set the interface to like 20 instead of swapping jets out?

2002t/a06
01-28-2008, 03:12 PM
damn man i hope that was the problem! if so it will be an easy fix! commanders call was death wasnt it?

Ruckus46Gt
01-28-2008, 07:22 PM
damn man i hope that was the problem! if so it will be an easy fix! commanders call was death wasnt it?

cc call wasnt to bad, but back to the subject. HSW what exactly would the maf have to see to turn off the interface. Just wondering if a pig rich mixture would cause the interface to shut the nitrous off, or if maybe if it was so rich that it was killing me up top (only thing i see with that was it fine on the dyno not sure if in the long run of a full run if something else would change if that makes sense). Also if i'm a little leaner then i'd like when i go back to the dyno with the interface on zero can i say put it on 10 or 15 to get me where i'd like to be. Max i would like to be at with a 100 shot is 11.5-11.8

Matt@HSW
01-29-2008, 09:58 AM
Personally I don't think your real issue is running rich, can you feel the system activate? And then not turn back on (assuming you are using the RPM window switch to turn the system off before the trans shifts)? It would have to detect something out of line with the MAF sig, 9 out of 10 times the car runs like crap (in limp mode). Does the car run like crap? Did you ever try to bypass your FPSS?

Okay, lets say with the Interface set to 0 for the jet that your N2O A/F is at 12.2, you can then start adding fuel via the Interface, so you can start with it set to 10 or 15 for the Jet size and take it from there.

Matt

cc call wasnt to bad, but back to the subject. HSW what exactly would the maf have to see to turn off the interface. Just wondering if a pig rich mixture would cause the interface to shut the nitrous off, or if maybe if it was so rich that it was killing me up top (only thing i see with that was it fine on the dyno not sure if in the long run of a full run if something else would change if that makes sense). Also if i'm a little leaner then i'd like when i go back to the dyno with the interface on zero can i say put it on 10 or 15 to get me where i'd like to be. Max i would like to be at with a 100 shot is 11.5-11.8

jmill96Z
01-29-2008, 11:00 AM
If the interface were causing the car to go pig rich, it wouldn't hit in just one gear. . While his rich condition mat cause poor performance, it doesn't explain tthe intermittent problem.

Either way, Ruckus has got to start troubleshooting. Easiest things first. Did you make sure your WOT is fully engaging? Disconnect the Interface, pill it for a true 100 shot and let it rip. If it still doesn't work,reconnect the Interface, jumper the FPSS and hit it again. If that doesn't work, reconnect the FPSS, and bypass the Window switch. Just take it one part at a time.

Ruckus46Gt
01-29-2008, 11:22 AM
Personally I don't think your real issue is running rich, can you feel the system activate? And then not turn back on (assuming you are using the RPM window switch to turn the system off before the trans shifts)? It would have to detect something out of line with the MAF sig, 9 out of 10 times the car runs like crap (in limp mode). Does the car run like crap? Did you ever try to bypass your FPSS?

Okay, lets say with the Interface set to 0 for the jet that your N2O A/F is at 12.2, you can then start adding fuel via the Interface, so you can start with it set to 10 or 15 for the Jet size and take it from there.

Matt

yea window switch is turning the system off between trans shifts etc. Its wierd i can wait and wait and activate the system half track and can feel it hit but then not feel it hitting shortly after. I did this and still trapped just over 111, but with a higher et. My fpss is bypassed so know the fpss isnt the issue. Its down to either the window switch or interface. Maybe nitrous outlet can chime in as to if something shows up on there window switch when the nitrous is activated, then i can have someone watch that the whole time on a nitrous run to see if thats the case

383LQ4SS
01-29-2008, 12:06 PM
it depends on how rich he is. He sais his last run on the dyno was 10.8 to 1 and we dont know alot about how that was run. If he is still at 10.8 or maybe even lower running that rich can certainly cause symptoms that would appear like the car was shutting off and on...surging..and cause nearly no gain. But to be sure we would have to make some more runs with a wideband.

Whats your bottle pressure now? What was it during the dyno runs?

I posted several things to check in an above post. One of the best things you might do right now is to hook up a test light to you noids. Tape it to your windshield so you can see it going down the track. Run a wire from the nitrous noid connection to a seperate ground so that the light turns on when the noid is open. Then make a run and see if thte light turns off during the run. If it does your issue has nothing to do with the fuel settings on the interface or running too rich.
It will have to do with either the WOT switch, window switch, relay, grounds etc.

You may also want to relocate your grounds from the shock towers.....or atleast clean the paint under them to ensure a very good ground. Better yet...relocate all grounds to a factory ground.

good luck....youll get it.

Ruckus46Gt
01-29-2008, 12:30 PM
wierd thing is i dont feel it surging its like hit hits and the fades away its not shutting on and off

383LQ4SS
01-29-2008, 12:42 PM
try the test light setup. That will divide your troubleshooting possibilities right in half. Any 12v lamp will do.

No light or light flickering = window switch, TPS, ground or electical issue with the kit, relay

light stays on steady= tune... to include being too rich, nitrous blockage in the lines or noids, plug or ignition issue, some other issue with the car or PCM itself.

thats the best way to go IMO right now.


If it just fades away I would say its likley in the tune.


Let me ask again...ARE YOU SURE YOU HAVE NITROUS IN THE BOTTLE?

LOL...i just have to ask. because if you are new to nitrous and are just hooking up the kit you can go through a TON of juice just testing. I cant tell you how many times guys see an issue only to find out they are out of nitrous and they believed it would last longer. Hell I have made that mistake myself.

Do you have a nitrous pressure gauge and heater? If so what are you pressures on these runs?

Please answer these questions as fully as you can. It will help us help you.

Ruckus46Gt
01-29-2008, 01:33 PM
yea just weighed the bottle have 4.5 lbs left in the bottle. Pressure on the runs were right a 900-950, and just went out and left the ground where it was pucked up the washer and grinded down past the paint under the shock tower (on both sides fuel ground is on the other side)

where should i wire this test light in?

383LQ4SS
01-29-2008, 05:01 PM
probably from the relay where you hook up your power out to your noids. You could probably just slide a stripped wire under the spade connector on the relay...then to the bulb...and from the bulb to ground. Basically so when the noids get power...the bulb gets power.

Eventually you may consider wiring this in full time and put a nice little LED in the cockpit somewhere. I have used the "noid indicator" on most of my past setups to let me know the status of the noids. Sure makes troubleshooting easier to know that the noids are or arent getting power.

GT Griller
01-29-2008, 05:29 PM
probably from the relay where you hook up your power out to your noids. You could probably just slide a stripped wire under the spade connector on the relay...then to the bulb...and from the bulb to ground. Basically so when the noids get power...the bulb gets power.

Eventually you may consider wiring this in full time and put a nice little LED in the cockpit somewhere. I have used the "noid indicator" on most of my past setups to let me know the status of the noids. Sure makes troubleshooting easier to know that the noids are or arent getting power.

Thats a good idea

Ruckus46Gt
01-30-2008, 01:45 AM
going to the hardware store tomorrow going to pick up a 12v lamp probely lcd light if they have it and then tap into the relay wire to the noids might actually drill a hole and have the led sit there so i always know if i can find one that looks like the normal alarm lights that blink. I put the interface back to 0.... Hopefully this will fix the issue.

Ray@Nitrous Outlet
01-30-2008, 09:39 AM
The window switch will show a "0" when it is ready and a "1" when the stage is active.

Ruckus46Gt
02-02-2008, 06:13 PM
The window switch will show a "0" when it is ready and a "1" when the stage is active.

i checked today and window switch said 1111 or something like that around mid track. That means its active correct?

myfast70
02-02-2008, 06:15 PM
i checked today and window switch said 1111 or something like that around mid track. That means its active correct?

Well, did it run any better?

LivingCanvas
02-02-2008, 08:19 PM
In for the results