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Rear Diff Fluid Change
#1
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Rear Diff Fluid Change
Now i know theres a good writeup on here called "4th gen ube changes" or something like that, but I just was wondering how risky/hard the rear fluid change is? Some local guys have told me it only takes one bad diff fluid change to blow this crappy ten bolt, so I want to be careful. Thanks for any info in advance fellas.
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im still on my stock 10 bolt! i changed to royal purple 75-90 when i bought my car, i have a torsen so no need for the additive plus the royal purple already has the additive in it! i have drove about 5,000 miles on the fluid and went to the track once! i will change my fluid probably in about 3,000 more miles!
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#8
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The fluid change is easy.
Put a large drip bucket under the rear and remove the 10 bolts from the cover. clean the old gasket material from the housing and cover using a gasket remover or plastic scraper.
Clean the inside of the cover well removing any metal savings from the magnet.
Put a new gasket on and bolt it up - preferrably using a torque wrench.
Remove the filler plug using a square 3/8s socket wrench.
Put the additive in first. Then fill to the top of the filler plug with gear oil. You can use a plunger device for the re-fill which seems easiest. These fillers are sold at parts stores.
Replace the plug and that is it.
I do mine about every 20K.
Put a large drip bucket under the rear and remove the 10 bolts from the cover. clean the old gasket material from the housing and cover using a gasket remover or plastic scraper.
Clean the inside of the cover well removing any metal savings from the magnet.
Put a new gasket on and bolt it up - preferrably using a torque wrench.
Remove the filler plug using a square 3/8s socket wrench.
Put the additive in first. Then fill to the top of the filler plug with gear oil. You can use a plunger device for the re-fill which seems easiest. These fillers are sold at parts stores.
Replace the plug and that is it.
I do mine about every 20K.
#9
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The fluid change is easy.
Put a large drip bucket under the rear and remove the 10 bolts from the cover. clean the old gasket material from the housing and cover using a gasket remover or plastic scraper.
Clean the inside of the cover well removing any metal savings from the magnet.
Put a new gasket on and bolt it up - preferrably using a torque wrench.
Remove the filler plug using a square 3/8s socket wrench.
Put the additive in first. Then fill to the top of the filler plug with gear oil. You can use a plunger device for the re-fill which seems easiest. These fillers are sold at parts stores.
Replace the plug and that is it.
I do mine about every 20K.
Put a large drip bucket under the rear and remove the 10 bolts from the cover. clean the old gasket material from the housing and cover using a gasket remover or plastic scraper.
Clean the inside of the cover well removing any metal savings from the magnet.
Put a new gasket on and bolt it up - preferrably using a torque wrench.
Remove the filler plug using a square 3/8s socket wrench.
Put the additive in first. Then fill to the top of the filler plug with gear oil. You can use a plunger device for the re-fill which seems easiest. These fillers are sold at parts stores.
Replace the plug and that is it.
I do mine about every 20K.
You can use silicone instead of gasket.
I recommend change every 10K
Jeff
#11
did diff fluid, ATF, and clutch reservoir yesterday.
all very easy. excellent write up.
clutch res was almost empty and all black sludge. no wonder it shifted like crap! all better.
all very easy. excellent write up.
clutch res was almost empty and all black sludge. no wonder it shifted like crap! all better.