Textralia or LS7?
#1
Textralia or LS7?
First off, I am not one to start threads like this. I spend most of my time on this forum searching so I don't have to clutter sections with repeatative threads, but I think that even with all the searching I've done a thread might help.
So here's the deal; I have an 01 SS that currently makes 395HP/375TQ. I am running the stock LS6 clutch(Only 16K on it) and I will hopefully be buying a 9" in the Spring and then I can start racing the car. How much I am not sure, the car is not my daily and I would hope to have a fun season of racing. I am eventually going to have to upgrade the clutch, the stock clutch has quite a bit of passes from the previous owner on it but still feels fine on the street. I know the track is going to put a beating on the clutch especially with the ability to launch with the 9". I am not excluding any other clutches but these two are the ones I am looking at the most.
At first I immediately excluded the LS7 thinking it wouldn't be up for the task but after doing a lot of research it seems like it may actually be perfect for my car right now. I have not read a single negative review about the clutch and I feel like it can hold the power at the track. The Textralia seems to have a great reputation as well but also has some so-so reviews(which can be expected of any part) I am just not sure if it's worth the money for my current setup. Money isn't much of an issue, I believe in buying the best part that is available but at the same time, it's almost twice as much as the LS7, is it really worth it? I am not sure which version to go with; X or Z. I am sure either one can handle my car. Basically, like most people, I want a clutch that I can drive to the track, make some passes on it, and drive back.
Sorry for the long post, I have been doing a lot of researching lately and figured I'd get all my thoughts out.
Thanks for any information. If at all possible I would like to hear input from actual owners of these clucthes. I am greatful for any feedback from members but anyone can read a bunch of reviews(which I have been doing) and make a suggestion without ever running the clutch.
So here's the deal; I have an 01 SS that currently makes 395HP/375TQ. I am running the stock LS6 clutch(Only 16K on it) and I will hopefully be buying a 9" in the Spring and then I can start racing the car. How much I am not sure, the car is not my daily and I would hope to have a fun season of racing. I am eventually going to have to upgrade the clutch, the stock clutch has quite a bit of passes from the previous owner on it but still feels fine on the street. I know the track is going to put a beating on the clutch especially with the ability to launch with the 9". I am not excluding any other clutches but these two are the ones I am looking at the most.
At first I immediately excluded the LS7 thinking it wouldn't be up for the task but after doing a lot of research it seems like it may actually be perfect for my car right now. I have not read a single negative review about the clutch and I feel like it can hold the power at the track. The Textralia seems to have a great reputation as well but also has some so-so reviews(which can be expected of any part) I am just not sure if it's worth the money for my current setup. Money isn't much of an issue, I believe in buying the best part that is available but at the same time, it's almost twice as much as the LS7, is it really worth it? I am not sure which version to go with; X or Z. I am sure either one can handle my car. Basically, like most people, I want a clutch that I can drive to the track, make some passes on it, and drive back.
Sorry for the long post, I have been doing a lot of researching lately and figured I'd get all my thoughts out.
Thanks for any information. If at all possible I would like to hear input from actual owners of these clucthes. I am greatful for any feedback from members but anyone can read a bunch of reviews(which I have been doing) and make a suggestion without ever running the clutch.
#5
Kleeborp the Moderator™
iTrader: (11)
How are you planning on installing the clutch? Yourself? Paying someone else?
If you are doing it yourself, how valuable is your time? Do you mind replacing a clutch that isn't up to the task?
Changing the clutch is a pain in the ***, but I, like many others on here, have fallen victim to "overclutching" my car (using a Ram Powergrip on a bolt-on only car that never gets raced). You can drive it, but it just isn't quite as much fun as a stock-like clutch when it feels like you are doing a leg press every time you go to push the clutch pedal.
I'd say give the LS7 a shot if it was me...more might give up the nice driving manners that the LS7 clutch definitely has. The one I've driven was super nice, and was in a Heads/Cam Formula with a Strange 12-bolt and 3.73s that was raced very regularly. It worked great in that car, and the owner never had problems. I even helped him install it on my back in his one car garage...
If you are doing it yourself, how valuable is your time? Do you mind replacing a clutch that isn't up to the task?
Changing the clutch is a pain in the ***, but I, like many others on here, have fallen victim to "overclutching" my car (using a Ram Powergrip on a bolt-on only car that never gets raced). You can drive it, but it just isn't quite as much fun as a stock-like clutch when it feels like you are doing a leg press every time you go to push the clutch pedal.
I'd say give the LS7 a shot if it was me...more might give up the nice driving manners that the LS7 clutch definitely has. The one I've driven was super nice, and was in a Heads/Cam Formula with a Strange 12-bolt and 3.73s that was raced very regularly. It worked great in that car, and the owner never had problems. I even helped him install it on my back in his one car garage...
#7
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
Honestly there really isnt a comparision between them.
Both have excellent street manners, but you cannot high rpm clutch dump them or hot lap it.
There is a siginifgant cost diff being around 400ish vs 1000.
I own a Tex 0z700 z-grip, LOVE IT.
But for you, toss the LS7 for the price and maybe for what your doing, you can see how long it last and if worse comes to worse, then toss a tex in. At least your not a guy looking at a 800$ Spec 3+, thats a more costly decision.
Both have excellent street manners, but you cannot high rpm clutch dump them or hot lap it.
There is a siginifgant cost diff being around 400ish vs 1000.
I own a Tex 0z700 z-grip, LOVE IT.
But for you, toss the LS7 for the price and maybe for what your doing, you can see how long it last and if worse comes to worse, then toss a tex in. At least your not a guy looking at a 800$ Spec 3+, thats a more costly decision.
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#8
Honestly there really isnt a comparision between them.
Both have excellent street manners, but you cannot high rpm clutch dump them or hot lap it.
There is a siginifgant cost diff being around 400ish vs 1000.
I own a Tex 0z700 z-grip, LOVE IT.
But for you, toss the LS7 for the price and maybe for what your doing, you can see how long it last and if worse comes to worse, then toss a tex in.
Both have excellent street manners, but you cannot high rpm clutch dump them or hot lap it.
There is a siginifgant cost diff being around 400ish vs 1000.
I own a Tex 0z700 z-grip, LOVE IT.
But for you, toss the LS7 for the price and maybe for what your doing, you can see how long it last and if worse comes to worse, then toss a tex in.
At least your not a guy looking at a 800$ Spec 3+, thats a more costly decision
#9
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
A similarly optioned Spec 3+ clutch kit (Flywheel, Pressure plate, and clutch) with a Steel FW is roughly $800 and often a clutch that is compared to a tex 0z700, many post about this.
If you get a Aluminum FW its over $900, if you had bought a clutch like this and still blew it (which a friend of mine has done, in less then 5k miles....) it would really suck when you had to buy another, or something different for even more money.
at least with a LS7, if you blow it, its not as much of a hit to the wallet thus you have an easier decision compared to someone looking at a Spec3+....
If you get a Aluminum FW its over $900, if you had bought a clutch like this and still blew it (which a friend of mine has done, in less then 5k miles....) it would really suck when you had to buy another, or something different for even more money.
at least with a LS7, if you blow it, its not as much of a hit to the wallet thus you have an easier decision compared to someone looking at a Spec3+....
#10
While I'm a bit lower than you in torque and hp, I've given the LS7 a through beating at the track last year after a good 15k miles put on the LS7 in daily driving. It handled hot lapping fairly well, takes 3k-3.5k clutch dumps alright, mind you my 60 ft's aren't the greatest and you would do better to let it cool if you are pulling 1.8's or better. I had 1.9-2.0 60 ft's.
I racked up a good 100+ passes last year using Nitto 555 and BFG KD tires. It's a decent clutch for the price but the street manners are amazing.
I racked up a good 100+ passes last year using Nitto 555 and BFG KD tires. It's a decent clutch for the price but the street manners are amazing.
#11
A similarly optioned Spec 3+ clutch kit (Flywheel, Pressure plate, and clutch) with a Steel FW is roughly $800 and often a clutch that is compared to a tex 0z700, many post about this.
If you get a Aluminum FW its over $900, if you had bought a clutch like this and still blew it (which a friend of mine has done, in less then 5k miles....) it would really suck when you had to buy another, or something different for even more money.
at least with a LS7, if you blow it, its not as much of a hit to the wallet thus you have an easier decision compared to someone looking at a Spec3+....
If you get a Aluminum FW its over $900, if you had bought a clutch like this and still blew it (which a friend of mine has done, in less then 5k miles....) it would really suck when you had to buy another, or something different for even more money.
at least with a LS7, if you blow it, its not as much of a hit to the wallet thus you have an easier decision compared to someone looking at a Spec3+....
While I'm a bit lower than you in torque and hp, I've given the LS7 a through beating at the track last year after a good 15k miles put on the LS7 in daily driving. It handled hot lapping fairly well, takes 3k-3.5k clutch dumps alright, mind you my 60 ft's aren't the greatest and you would do better to let it cool if you are pulling 1.8's or better. I had 1.9-2.0 60 ft's.
I racked up a good 100+ passes last year using Nitto 555 and BFG KD tires. It's a decent clutch for the price but the street manners are amazing.
I racked up a good 100+ passes last year using Nitto 555 and BFG KD tires. It's a decent clutch for the price but the street manners are amazing.
#12
TECH Addict
iTrader: (7)
Feel-wise, you won't beat the Textralia for driveability. I can't speak to the power and lasting capabilities, though, and it is $600 more. I say go with the LS7, based on what your stated plans are for the car. If it doesn't work out, you can always upgrade for more money and more work, but that's a big IF.
#13
Feel-wise, you won't beat the Textralia for driveability. I can't speak to the power and lasting capabilities, though, and it is $600 more. I say go with the LS7, based on what your stated plans are for the car. If it doesn't work out, you can always upgrade for more money and more work, but that's a big IF.
#14
TECH Addict
iTrader: (7)
Well, "reliable at the track" could mean a lot of things. Do you mean hot-lapping with 5000-6000 RPM clutch dumps or do you mean 2-3 runs over the course of the evening babying it out of the hole at 3000-4000 RPMs, which will probably cause it to fall flat on its face or require you to ride the clutch so long it will die after the first day of racing?
#15
Well, "reliable at the track" could mean a lot of things. Do you mean hot-lapping with 5000-6000 RPM clutch dumps or do you mean 2-3 runs over the course of the evening babying it out of the hole at 3000-4000 RPMs, which will probably cause it to fall flat on its face or require you to ride the clutch so long it will die after the first day of racing?
#16
TECH Addict
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To be honest, I haven't heard great things about the LS7 at the strip when hot-lapping and with high RPM clutch dumps, so if you're gonna put a strong rear in the back and plan to REALLY launch that thing on some sticky tires, I'd recommend something that's a little more up to the task. That's just me, though.
#17
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I have a ls7 and "knock on wood", i haven't had any problems with it. I launched it a 55 at the track and this clutch has been in here for almost a year.I think it's pretty cool too beacuse my girl can drive this car without it hurting her leg. I would say ls7.
#19
To be honest, I haven't heard great things about the LS7 at the strip when hot-lapping and with high RPM clutch dumps, so if you're gonna put a strong rear in the back and plan to REALLY launch that thing on some sticky tires, I'd recommend something that's a little more up to the task. That's just me, though.
Glad to hear that's it's holding up well. Keep us posted on any problems.
#20
TECH Addict
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That's why I'm torn between the 2. I know I won't be a track rat but the car will be raced and driven hard when it is. I have also heard about the LS7's woes at the track but at the same time I have read some pretty good reviews, like the one below. But are these cars driven as hard, as often and make the same power as me? I don't know. Lets figure the car will be raced once every other week, about 3-4 passes each time. I'll be running 15" Nitto DR's and I'll have to launch at atleast around 4-4500K to get going. It's hard to determine if the clutch will last or not, there't too many variables, but I am worried the LS7 won't hold up too long. I have the same mentality; I'm going with a 9" and aftermarket driveshaft, why not get a clutch I can throw anything at? Decisions, decisions.