Help!! LS7 first startup procedure??
#1
Help!! LS7 first startup procedure??
Getting ready to fire my LS7 crate engine for the first time. Do any of you have a link to the procedure to follow for the LS7 with dry sump? Your help would be appreciated
#2
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Start-Up
I admit I do not know proper start-up procedure, if there is one at all, but I do know that, if you depress the pedal to the floor & hold it there during start-up, on any LS series engine, that the engine will crank only & not fire. This allows a prelube of sorts. I know this works, as I have done it. Hope this helps.
#3
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When I fired mine, I did as noted above, I simply turned it over by the starter without the ignition off. A pre-lube of sorts. I didn't use the WOT trick, though. I just supplied 12V to the solenoid.
#7
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You don't want to wet down the plugs. Leaving the ignition firing is fine, it's fuel that you want to cut off.
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#8
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I always pre-lube everything on the engine stand. It'll work in the chassis also. When an engine is properly pre-lubed the oil galleys are full, the lifters are bled & full, it's the best way to make sure nothing is dry when first started.
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#10
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Actually...
The best, money is no object, means to make your engine last with pre-lubing, is a fully installed pre-lube, air pressurized system. Each & every time you start the engine, its prelubed by hitting a switch prior. I've installed these on offshore race & pleasure boats with big power. Dry start-ups, which all of us have, are said to be an engines worst enemy over time.
#12
I planned to be shut down the fuel to prevent wash down but good point to remind others of. Pumping oil from the dry sump tank into the engine is going to take some time. Any body have any idea how long? The supply outlet from the tank is above the oil pan fittings so there will be some gravity supply action.
Another question I have is what oil to use for startup. Factory recommends 5W30 synthetic for normal operation but their start-up and break-in procedure says to use none-synthetic until after 2nd oil change @ 500 miles. Is that what you are doing?
c5racr1, not sure that sticking the key in and starting it is a good idea. My engine has been sitting for awhile during the build and whatever oil Wixom used has probably pretty well drained down completely.
#14
c5racr1, my main concern with your comment was that I didn't think starting it immediately would pre-lube it enough before start-up. It sat idle for close to a year while I worked on the rest of the car.
#17
Needs to finish car
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When I started mine, I just cranked it and started it. Took a while cranking to get fuel up to the rails, as the E38 doesn't have the pump set to prime the same way as the older computers. More than likely that got enough oil moving around. It was 4 am when we first started it, so prelubing didn't really cross my mind. I also used synthetic oil from the start, figuring it had some run time in Wixom, and these things come in 'vettes with synthetic from the start.
If you're using the stock computer, don't be concerned if it makes backfiring sounds at first, since the crank sensor is not sinked up it could be firing the plugs 180* off. When it starts, be prepared for one seriously fast ride.
I'm with Pat, too; I want to see this thing. It should be a seriously nice car.
If you're using the stock computer, don't be concerned if it makes backfiring sounds at first, since the crank sensor is not sinked up it could be firing the plugs 180* off. When it starts, be prepared for one seriously fast ride.
I'm with Pat, too; I want to see this thing. It should be a seriously nice car.
#19