LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

Ok..long story short. I just did a T56 swap using all the parts from my friends 98 Z28. Flywheel,Clutch,Trans,X-Member,Pedals,Etc. (It all worked fine in his car)...Now not even my transmission guy can get the clutch to work right. (It has 1"+ play at the top of the pedal that no matter how many times it is bled will not go away, and even when mashed hard to the floor, it will BARELY engage 1st or R)...In total, it has been bled very VERY many times, has a new slave, new master, drill mod, and everything else is hard parts that worked fine in his car.
I feel like I need to shim the slave, but would that make any sense that it wouldnt want to work in my car when it did fine in his?? Is the 98 crank or block in any way different enough to cause a problem with spacing?...We even took the pedal stop out of the equation looking for more pedal stroke, to no avail. I am all out of ideas....please help...

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

Also...where would I get shims?....

Someone think this through with me....If I could BARELY get it into gear...and then removed my pedal stop (giving a considerable amount more stroke), and it acted no differently wouldnt it almost HAVE to be air in the system? New master and slave, with drill mod....It has seriously been bled more times than I can even guess....is it possible still to have air somewhere?....Should I try the Mity-Vac?...

chuckyt1

iTrader: (33)

Did you bench bleed the master? I know it sounds crazy, but I have seen it work. If you get air in the top of that thing, it's a bitch to get it out once it's installed...

SladeX

disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave. If the master can be compressed, you have air in the system in the master or the line.

Shouldn't have to shim a stock ls1 clutch. 98-02 have no difference in how the transmissions connect.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

If all else seems fine, you might want to try the stock master cylinder made adjustable mod in the stickies in the top of the forum.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Time to get out the mity vac.......

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

Would air also cause the pedal to "linger" at the top of the throw when released? That top 1" or so of no pressure I feel is whats killing me.
I think I'll try this before anything else. At this point, it seems air in the system is the only possibility. Like said above, I cant imagine needing a shim....even if it WAS an aftermarket clutch...EVERYTHING from his car swapped over....meaning the distance from the flywheel to the slave base should be the same since there are no model year differences.
I did do the drill mod, and thought I thoroughly cleaned out the line...could a shaving be causing this?...Where would it end up in the slave?...Again though, it works like it should other than the fact its floorboard or nothing as far as getting in gear, and even then I have to lean into the stick which I dont like.

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

I dont think adjustment will help....keep in mind that when it wasnt acting right we removed the pedal stop to let the clutch pedal go an extra little bit (this would do the same thing as an adjustable master would do, as far as giving me more stroke in the master)....I'll get the Mity-Vac and post up..

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Air in the system does all sorts of weird things. I recently flushed the fluid in a buddy's '00 car and ran almost 2 quarts through bleeding it at the slave.....never got a good pedal. Stuck a mity vac on the reservoir and pulled a ton of air out of the master, pedal was solid. Only way to do it IMO.

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

Tried the mity-vac and got a couple bubbles, but the pedal never got any better. I still have that 1" plus of slack at the top of the pedal. Starting to wonder if somehow in the swap my pedal to master spacing is off enough to cause a problem. At this point we are thinking about extending the MC rod to effectively make the pedal firm from the top of the stroke..?

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

This is where adjustable master can help, you can extend the rod into the master's bore to take up all the free play.
I have had it cure many problems before.
You put the rod in to take freeplay out & vice versa to increase freeplay.

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

Essentially what we are trying to do at this point. Im still baffled as to why its not working in my car......have any other T56swap guys had trouble??..

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

Does everyone agree that I should NOT need a shim, since everything from the flywheel back came from his car and worked? I am starting to think maybe even a small amount of variation of my mount holes for the master/pedals could be holding back my pedal from making a good full stroke in the master. I had even removed the pedal stop to give it a small amount more throw and I do still have 1-1.5" of free-play at the top of the pedal...the clutch wont fully engage untilc lose to 1/2 way up, but is obviosly barely grabbing with the clutch to the floor. At this point I can get it in gear, but I really have to push harder than I like on the shifter...thoughts?..