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What Clutch & Flywheel to get

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Old 02-07-2008, 11:02 PM
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Default What Clutch & Flywheel to get

Im thinking of getting a spec stage 3 but not sure what kind of flywheel to get. Is it worth getting aluminum, or just go with billet. Ive seen some cheap flywheels on ebay but dont know if I should go with that.Want to order it before the wife changes her mind. help me out

Mods are:headers, x-pipe, lid, Throttle body
Planing on cam and nitrous
Old 02-07-2008, 11:10 PM
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Road race or drag? Aluminum for road race, steel for drag racing. I'd stay away from "cheap"...
Old 02-08-2008, 01:12 AM
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i used to have a spec 3 with a spec aluminum flywheel. My car, a daily drive, was almost a bitch to get rolling because of the lightweight flywheel. Im now using a spec 1 with a stock clutch; the difference in night and day
Old 02-08-2008, 01:36 AM
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I have a brand new SLP steel billet light weight flywheel that I never used. Let me know if you want to buy it. Email me at s_faltas@yahoo.com
Old 02-08-2008, 06:32 AM
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Wives opinions don't count here!

Go with something strong and reliable - LS7. It is made by GM, is designed to handle 50hp and you know it will work. It is also cheap!
Old 02-08-2008, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by luis_ws6
Im thinking of getting a spec stage 3 but not sure what kind of flywheel to get. Is it worth getting aluminum, or just go with billet. Ive seen some cheap flywheels on ebay but dont know if I should go with that.Want to order it before the wife changes her mind. help me out

Mods are:headers, x-pipe, lid, Throttle body
Planing on cam and nitrous
Stick with a Steel FW, actually if you go spec, get theirs.
Old 02-08-2008, 08:36 AM
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I have a 5500 miles Spec Clutch Alumimium Flywheel to sell in excellent condition.
SPEC ALUMINIUM FLYWHEEL may be sold separately if needed...
It went out of the car with the engine increased power, here are the pics:











Christian
Old 02-08-2008, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by slayerized6
i used to have a spec 3 with a spec aluminum flywheel. My car, a daily drive, was almost a bitch to get rolling because of the lightweight flywheel. Im now using a spec 1 with a stock clutch; the difference in night and day
When you say a bitch to get rolling what exactly do you mean? I'm replacing my clutch soon and am thinking about getting a new flywheel with it, how does it effect the driving? I'm thinking about getting a Spec 3+, what would the drivability be like using a Spec steel billet flywheel? My car sees a lot of miles so I don't want to throw anything in that may wear too quick or make it TOO extremely difficult to drive.
Old 02-08-2008, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by G-NastyTA
When you say a bitch to get rolling what exactly do you mean? I'm replacing my clutch soon and am thinking about getting a new flywheel with it, how does it effect the driving? I'm thinking about getting a Spec 3+, what would the drivability be like using a Spec steel billet flywheel? My car sees a lot of miles so I don't want to throw anything in that may wear too quick or make it TOO extremely difficult to drive.
The Rpms drop quick so either it stalls, bogs BAD, or you need to tach up the rpms and let it out quick and get on the throttle fast. Due to steel having the interia to keeps the rpms more steady, you dont need be the best driver on earth to drive a T-56.

The Issue with SPEC is this, they hold a decent amount of power, its more like a ON/OFF clutch and they CANNOT be rode hard on when you leave from a stop, its a sure fire way to guarrentee your replaceing it in 4-7k miles.
Old 02-08-2008, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
The Rpms drop quick so either it stalls, bogs BAD, or you need to tach up the rpms and let it out quick and get on the throttle fast. Due to steel having the interia to keeps the rpms more steady, you dont need be the best driver on earth to drive a T-56.
This stament is not accurate, I had a SPEC alu Flywheel and after tuning it was smooth as skill in term of iddle, take off or in town driving.
Since I had an exo-Skel and now trying an RPS Carbon...that's really light and after tuning drives like STOCK!!!!!

Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
The Issue with SPEC is this, they hold a decent amount of power, its more like a ON/OFF clutch and they CANNOT be rode hard on when you leave from a stop, its a sure fire way to guarrentee your replaceing it in 4-7k miles.
It depends of the power level you want a clutch to handle.
I did test five clutch in my car including the GM LS6 OEM one, the SPEC in the post above with pics was the same than stock, just handling more power where the OEM couldn't.

To summarize, if you have a good tune the Aluminium Flywheel is just BETTER.
Christian
Old 02-08-2008, 03:16 PM
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An aluminum flywheel will require slightly more RPM when leaving the line or the stop-light. I prefer the feel of alumnium over steel in my personal cars and use it in everything I have owned for years. It can be a bit of an aquired taste...but once you get use to it everything else will just feel slow to rev in comparison. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks!
Old 02-08-2008, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by robertbartsch
Wives opinions don't count here!

Go with something strong and reliable - LS7. It is made by GM, is designed to handle 50hp and you know it will work. It is also cheap!
Damn, that thing holds 50 whole horses, huh? Badass clutch, right there.
Old 02-08-2008, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by miami993c297
This stament is not accurate, I had a SPEC alu Flywheel and after tuning it was smooth as skill in term of iddle, take off or in town driving.
Since I had an exo-Skel and now trying an RPS Carbon...that's really light and after tuning drives like STOCK!!!!!



It depends of the power level you want a clutch to handle.
I did test five clutch in my car including the GM LS6 OEM one, the SPEC in the post above with pics was the same than stock, just handling more power where the OEM couldn't.

To summarize, if you have a good tune the Aluminium Flywheel is just BETTER.
Christian
I disagree with your points IF your using your car in comparison, your way lighter and if thats a z06 (cannot tell) your trans ratios are better which help with driveability.

I Have driven heavy cars with aluminum flywheels and UNLESS the driver is prepared, I beleive he is going to be burning that clutch up in no time.
Old 02-10-2008, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
I disagree with your points IF your using your car in comparison, your way lighter and if thats a z06 (cannot tell) your trans ratios are better which help with driveability.

I Have driven heavy cars with aluminum flywheels and UNLESS the driver is prepared, I beleive he is going to be burning that clutch up in no time.
Hi BlackScreaminMachine,

My ZO6 as show in the video below driven in town in stop and go traffic weights around 3450 pounds.
The ALUMINIUM SPEC II was in at this stage, as you can see in the video the drivability/streetability is more than good with my big overlap camshaft and the LIGHT FLYWHEEL...
On a side note, my wife went more than once to gather groceries with the ZO6, not having any staling or issues:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PL7h3QvOUFs

http://www.youtube.com/v/PL7h3QvOUFs


Christian

Last edited by miami993c297; 02-11-2008 at 10:34 AM.
Old 02-10-2008, 08:24 PM
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Ok, so your car is not a Fbody. Our cars weigh heavier and our T-56's are not the same.

Whats going to kill a car is the weight and the OVERall drive ratio for 1st gear since that when a car is stationary and takes the most effort to move.

Although I did like the video and the examples given It is a poor example for what this guy is looking for.

Had it been a different clutch, maybe I can say try that clutch out but Spec just cant be slipped like what i experienced.

Thats just my opinion. Its his money.

Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; 02-11-2008 at 08:27 AM.



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