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air ratchet on flywheel bolts?

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Old 02-11-2008, 02:07 PM
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Default air ratchet on flywheel bolts?

will it mess anything up if i use an air ratchet on my 6 bolts that bolt the flywheel to the crank?(already threaded down as far as they could go before using the air ratchet)

and is hand tightening good enough for the pressure plate to flywheel bolts?

thanks,
michael
Old 02-11-2008, 02:09 PM
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You need to properly torque all of those bolts to their proper specs with a calibrated torque wrench.
Old 02-11-2008, 03:56 PM
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I'll be honest and say that I used common sense when I did the first clutch on my z28 and actually used an impact on it (like I said though with common sense) I have used impacts for over 3 years when bolting on rims and tires at jobs so I have a very good idea of how much torque it feels like is being transferred. The tranny shop I was at said they did it all the time. I didn't do it on the second install just for safety. Take the extra time and just torque them man. I don't recommend doing it unless you have a really good sense for how much torque your are applying. An air rachet most likely won't put that much torque on them either IMO unless you have a very powerful one or something like a 1/2 air rachet that's really beefy.
Old 02-11-2008, 10:04 PM
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Does anyone know the exact torque specs for the flywheel and pressureplate and bellhousing and transmission bolts? If not ill try to find them in my Haynes manual when I get off work tomorro, thanks
Michael
Old 02-12-2008, 09:10 AM
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Flywheel -75 ft/lbs
PP -50 ft/lbs

don't forget loctite on the bolt threads
Old 02-12-2008, 09:15 AM
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Definitely use the torque wrench to spec. Why cut corners on something that will only take an extra 1-2 minutes and could cause major damage to your car and parts if not done correctly, not to mention harm to you??? Think about how fast that flywheel is spinning when you're running at 6000 RPMs or above? 1-2 minutes it worth it.
Old 02-12-2008, 02:37 PM
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yea, im goin outside to retorque everything as we speak lol, think using a block of wood to catch on something so the flywheel wont turn will work?
Old 02-12-2008, 04:54 PM
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is there a NEED to put loctite on the bolts? i really would rather not use it if i dont have to, ive had problems with it in the past
Old 02-12-2008, 06:35 PM
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You don't want those bolts backing out, trust me. Use loctite.
Old 02-12-2008, 06:39 PM
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bah... do i coat the entire bolt? or just a line around one part? etc.? and use on all of them right(flywheel and pressureplate botls)
Old 02-12-2008, 08:15 PM
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Just a drop on one side will work, use blue not red. If you use red god help you getting those bastards out again.
Old 02-12-2008, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelxx16
bah... do i coat the entire bolt? or just a line around one part? etc.? and use on all of them right(flywheel and pressureplate botls)
Maybe that's why you've had issues in the past...all that's required is one to two drops max (and clean, oil free threads). The flywheel to crankshaft bolts and the pressure plate bolts should all have loctite on them, no questions asked.
Old 02-12-2008, 09:42 PM
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so one dot like . on the side of the bolt? and use blue loctite.. got it,, also what about the bell housing? any loctite on those, and does torque matter on those?
Old 02-13-2008, 08:17 AM
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I wouldn't use loctite on the bellhousing or tranny bolts, just the pressure plate and flywheel bolts. Just make sure you torque them nice and tight, but I'm not exactly sure what the specs would be on those, or that you need to be dead on accurate.
Old 02-13-2008, 09:11 AM
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I used blue loctite. I also had it explained to me like this. Blue loctite is for people who want to take those bolts out again, red loctite is for people who never want to take those bolts out again, or if they cant find anything else to use and want to get rid of the car in a hurry so they wont hafta see it again.
Old 02-13-2008, 09:29 AM
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Yes...one drop on the threads, maybe two (one on each side of the bolt). I used red loctite, and have never had a problem getting the bolts back out...it takes more prevailing torque to get them to move, but it by no means permanently keeps them in place.

As for the transmission and bell housing bolts...DO NOT use loctite on those. As a matter of fact, put anti-seize on the dowel pins that align them, and leave the bolts clean. You'll thank yourself later since the bell housing won't be frozen on the dowel pins when you try to get it back off down the road.
Old 02-13-2008, 10:04 AM
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not too much of a question for the clutch, but how tight are the bolts that go up through the oil pan into the rear main cover? i seem to have some kind of leak coming from the bottom edge of the rear cover, could this just be because its been sitting for past few days on jack stands?
Old 02-13-2008, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
As a matter of fact, put anti-seize on the dowel pins that align them, and leave the bolts clean.
Don't you need anti-sieze on any steel bolt that is threaded into aliminum? Either that or loctite to prevent thread galling?
Old 02-13-2008, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by chuckyt1
Don't you need anti-sieze on any steel bolt that is threaded into aliminum? Either that or loctite to prevent thread galling?
i never used it. just on the damn dowel pins.
i only loctite the flywheel and pressure plate.
Old 02-13-2008, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by chuckyt1
Don't you need anti-sieze on any steel bolt that is threaded into aliminum? Either that or loctite to prevent thread galling?
You can, but I've never had issues with those particular threads getting damaged, so I don't in the interest of time.



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