qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

over summer, i plan on having a 6 point roll cage/bar (I don't know if there is a difference) installed in my car. I am doing it for three reasons. 1. safety of course 2. stiffening up the car 3. in case i ever do run faster than a 11.50

my question is as follows: has anyone ever heard of a subframe/roll cage system that will integrate the two for more rigidity? i remember reading it one time but don't remember where. i don't know how this would be done, but i feel the need to ask before assuming anything. i believe it was a chassis shop sponsor (i wanna say midwest but i'm not sure) that posted it. thanks in advance guys

SS101

iTrader: (2)

alot of guys just weld the cage to the subframes and connect it all under the car with SFCs, in effect jioning the cage, subs, and SFCs into one solid unit

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

i assume that would require them to cut my floor boards. is there a huge advantage to this?

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

look fer Steve Burger,,he will take care of you.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

normally on a roll bar/cage on a unibody car the subframe connectors run inboard the main hoop far enough to add the two short diagonals(points 7 and 8 compared to a 6 point) from the connectors to the main hoop. however, the subframe connectors on most f-body cars are only a few inches inboard of the main hoop. this causes the short diagonals to run nearly vertical, therefore not doing much benefit for structure. it can be done, but is it worth it...

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

There are advantages to tieing them together. This is the way all 25.x cages have to be built. With just a 6 pt, I would say get a good set of SFCs and a CM roll bar. You will gain a great deal of chassis stiffness. I don;t think there is a lot of gain in tieing the roll bar to the SFCs at this point.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

you will notice enough of a difference in rigidity with a cage even without subframe connectors. i had a 5 point in my formula without sub frame connectors and it really got rid of most of the body roll around corners at stock height, but with my seat fully back against the bar any wheel hop or potholes made the whole car feel like it was going to shake itself apart

TTPMatt

iTrader: (18)

I would do everything in 4130 "chromemoly" round tubing. For a 6-point it must be 1.75 x .095. Then do a good set of subframes. At this point, it's not worth the extra money to tie them together. I do rollbars all the time on these cars and I always suggest SFC's at the same time.

Call me if you want to come check out a similar setup I fabricate everything in-house including bending the rollbars and SFCs...

bigbadblack93z

iTrader: (8)

To do it for maximum support you would want to look at a through the floor set up. its nasty looking in a street car but allows you to use some serious components to put it all together. I've seen this on a few class A sedan cars.

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

thanks for the info. i guess i'll do a 6 point to start and then add the 7 and 8 points when i get more serious.