The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

I'm fairly certain my PCV valve is b a d. Last time my delinquent mech touched my car it came back with an oil leak.

He told me he must have "bumped" my PCV valve because it was off

He put it back on and I went my way.

4 weeks later, I'm cleanin' puddles out of my throttle body and MAF

The inside of my lid is SPRAYED with oil and 50% of my K&N from the middle out is saturated with oil. (Been throwin' an AIR 0400 code as a result)

Havin' a difficult time crankin' her and she's runnin' rough below 2K rpm's (I'm assuming because my MAF is FRIED as a result of all the hot oil COATING MY MAF WIRES)

I just wanna know that this is the only way I could get oil in the tb, maf, and lid. That way I know that the pcv is my only leak.

Thanks!

robertbartsch

You are in serious need of an oil catch can. I assume you installed LT headers that impact the crankcase pressure and allow your engine to suck in and burn crankcase oil.

Build a catch can and consider an LS6 valley cover too....

I have both and now I don;t have any oil being sucked into my motor....

...do this now or run the risk of significant carbon build up which blows (no pun)...

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

Forgive my ignorance but do any of the companies sell these catch cans?

At least a little oil's gonna be in the throttle body unless you never go wot. Correct?

Thanks for the fast reply

robertbartsch

Unfortunatly, no on the catch can sale.

I made mine from 2" PVC from Home Depo....i drilled two holes and inserted two threaded brass nipples with a tappered head....

...the nipples will accept a 5/16" piece of fuel line... the can is about 8 inches long...drill the holes - one about 2 inches from the bottom and the other about 5 inches from the bottom...


...on each end of the can I used a black rubber cap that is sold in the plumbing section of Depo.... the rubber cap is important since you need to empty the can once in a while...don;t use a non-removable top....


....Since the PVC valve is located downstream of the MAF it normally should not coat the MAF with oil or the air lid either....

Guys - this is correct, right?

...attach one side of the can to the valve cover and the other to the TB...before the pcv


...you may be able to clean the MAF wires but not sure what to use....ask someone here...obviously these are thin and delicate.

Silverchickn

iTrader: (1)

I have heard that you can use Electronic board cleaner from Radio Shack. It comes in a spray can and just dont spray it to close to the wires as not to break them. That is just what I have read but that is my $0.02.

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

Alright fellas, I swapped my PCV valve for a new one and put 2 fuel filters in line with the PCV hose but I'm still getting oil in front/behind my TB, MAF, and lid The fuel filters still look new so the oil doesn't appear to be coming from the pcv system; I could be wrong.

New questions:

is it possible there's something wrong with my valvetrain?? Could this even get oil in the intake system??


My engine sounds completely normal . . . if there is a burnt valve, wouldn't it make some kind of clatter??

Is there any other way for oil to get into the intake system other than the PCV??

I filled my oil level above normal because of the leak I was getting (I wanted to be safe). Would a build up of oil pressure due to over-fill cause this intake oil problem?? If so, I didn't notice a difference on the oil pressure gauge (not to mention the fact that this would be one he!! of a coincidence since I experienced the oil problem with normal oil levels)

I need serious help here . . . if I had a shop that could do it this week I'd have somebody pull the valves/heads

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

ttt please

Viper

iTrader: (6)

OK, sounds crazy but follow me. If the K&N is over oiled, it WILL go right onto the MAF wires and even pool in the bellows connecting the MAF to the TB. I know from experience. I got a new motor, went out racing finally and freaked at the end of the day when I experienced the same thing. It was an over-oiled K&N, combined with racing in the rain ( autox ), water pushed the oil right through. However, you are also saying puddles in the TB. Are the puddles in front of the blade or back? If it's front, it's the filter, grab a FRAM, works perfectly fine. If it's front AND back, then yes, chasing down PCV issues is essential. The same day I freaked, I thought the same as you; PCV messed up. Well, turns out I did have a PCV problem; the clip that holds the PCV valve rubber grommet in place had punctured a hole in the grommet itself. Dealer wants $80 for the PCV boot ( rubber grommet ); I used black RTV and went on my way. Just trying to help with ideas....

I also ended up doing the vertical PCV mod; basically I did the whole inline filter idea, then ditched it ( looked crappy; to each his own ) and kept the vertical portion of the mod.

Finally, I cleaned my GMAF with electric contact cleaner; seems fine now.

robertbartsch

Viper:
Good point. I also heard that oily K&Ns will void your warranty....


I could not think of how oil would be getting up to the lid and MAF but this is a lodgical explaination....


...so wash your K&N with sopa and water, do not oil it, spray your MAF with the Radio Shack stuff and clean and re-assemble the lid .....

i still think you should go for a catch can since they are really neet...

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

Quickly touch on the K&N issue: I put the stock paper filter back in and YES; oil is still everywhere AND on the stock filter now too (so no to K&N oil)

NOW I'M SCARED.

I was told by a mech that gave me his diagnosis over the phone my rings are done and my motor is tired
He also said that I could get a leak down test but I'd be wasting money because they'd just tell me the same thing. His prognosis: get a new crate motor

Problems:

I try to turn the motor after it's been hot and it will NOT turn over. It attempts to crank catches for a split second and then shuts right off If I let her cool down a bit she'll turn right over (I'm still getting those weird 1637 generator L-terminal circuit and 0400 AIR codes??)

I popped the dipstick pulled the oil cap off while the engine was on (Paul at Thunder recommended this check) and there was smoke coming from the oil reservoir; looked greyish.

Paul also told me if there is smoke comin' from the oil reservoir then it's the rings

My question: how in the HE!! can my rings be shot N/A when I only put the Heads and Cam on less than 8 months ago and 12K miles?????

Anyone . . . please explain something of the above . . . any comments or suggestions are welcome.

I'm stressin' BIG TIME

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

ttt

Silverchickn

iTrader: (1)

TTT for ya one more time. Hope someone will help this guy out I cant think of anything.

TanRchy

TTT, someone help this man out...

mobius

how bout a compression test to see if it is the rings.

ne14a6t9

Dragon, with all my past experience with race engines in my past cars, its sounds like a major ring or ring land problem, to be pumping out that much oil, do you run nitrous or had any severe detonation. a leak down test should tell you

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

Never any nitrous or power adder. No detonation either.

Found out that the 410 is the secondary air system and I might have a bad relay, ecm, or even pcm (I'm REALLY hoping that this is the cause for everything . . . well, this and the bad PCV system)

Everyone still thinks it's highly unlikely that I have a bad ring problem because my PCV has NO vacuum whatsoever with the car on. After I fix the electrical problems and the clogged PCV system I'll see if the oil problem at WOT persists; if so, I'll get the leak-down test.

When I keep the car under 3K rpm's and out of WOT, I get NO oil in the TB or anywhere else for that matter. Furthermore, I'm not having any oil consumption staying part-throttle.

I just did a DTC check and came up with a couple new codes in addition to the existing 410, 1637, and accompanying 300; 151 HO2S Circuit low voltage bank 2 sensor 1 (B2S1) and 336 CKP Sensor Circuit Performance which is Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance??

Again, thank you to EVERYONE for helping me out so far Any input or other suggestions/opinions are welcome

07BlueDevilZ06

iTrader: (8)

"the dragon" this is the guy that beat ttp out of a set of heads and cam hes band on ls1.com because of it i would not lend a scumer like this any help

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the reply! Even though that is absolutely false. The only reason I'm even responding to your flame is because I'm irate over that ridiculous accusation.

Although LS1 is a mild amusement loooooooaded with amusing people, LS1Tech is a true TECHNICAL site which I respect greatly (therefore I would not like to take up any more band width over this flame).

If you would like, I'll forward you the e-mail(s) that I have in my inbox with E (LS1 Administrator).

All the necessary information is in them and you are free to post it publicly wherever you like if you so desire (or feel the need to do so).

Again . . . thanks for the helpful reply

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

I think we've pretty much nailed down the culprits:

1. the PCV system was definitely causing the oil deposit which will be corrected on Monday.

2. all of the strange codes I'm having all point to one thing; bad PCM.

I actually read fuel cell 22 sitting in my driveway at an idle and all the way to the gym (15 minute city drive at or below 45 mph) without going more than 13.5% throttle (stayed mostly at 4% or less).

Moral: these PCM's can only take so many re-writes.
Sort of like a cdrw . . . after time it won't burn.

Since my car was, as one of my friend's so aptly put it, the "guinea pig" for tuning; I had to do DOZENS of uploads and log runs before getting it right (also take into account that I've been editing for a year and a half now . . . revised tunes for each new power modification ).

On 3 other LS1's I've only had to do a fraction of the uploads (3 to 5).

If anyone researches and finds this thread:

I'd say the PCM becomes vulnerable after 40 or so tuned uploads so be very exact

Any other comments are welcome.

Thanks fellas!

Nagash01WS6

I seriously doubt that the tuning is what caused the PCM failure, unless there was a bad write. The PROM that is used in our cars is essentially the same as the BIOS in your computer. There are no moving parts, and nothing to format. Information is overwritten in the PROM.