Pro_built7

iTrader: (9)

Wellll like my sig says I'm installing lt's etc.. anyway everything's been going good until today.. im so f'ing fed up with this car right now its not even funny. I was taking the stock manifold bolts out after pb blastering them for like 2 days and offff course the second to last bolt toward the back on the driver side you know- the one on the inside the last runner, after about 1 1/2 hours of fussing and messing with it the #$% stripped. i was in total disbelief i couldn't believe what i had just done after so long being so careful not to. so my question is now what do i do? drop the engine with k member? im at a loss here guys i appreciate some advice/ guides to get me back on track with my modding. thanks

gatorhead

iTrader: (4)

Just the bolt head stripped right? Go to Sears and get a set of their bolt out's > $20
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...+Taps+%26+Dies

Pro_built7

iTrader: (9)

ya but its in such a tight place its ridiculous, i was going to try these hope they work

OiBoyBirdy

iTrader: (2)

its easier to install the lts with it out anyway man....when i droped my lt1 in i put them on first

Biggin'89

iTrader: (2)

yep no sense in fighting the install for 20hrs when it takes 2-3 hrs to pull the motor.

Pro_built7

iTrader: (9)

actually guys i think im going to go get blasted drunk b/c just a little while ago i went and bought an irwin bolt remover set from autozone, and they worked perfectly that @$@ bolt came right out, and well i was at it i got the passenger side manifold off pretty easily also

damn what a relief i was so unbelieveably happy when i felt it coming out, what a catastrophe that could have been thanks for all the help guys !!!!!

3pnt4maro

iTrader: (2)

good deal

O Holy P

iTrader: (9)

LOL, I just put LT's on my WS6 this weekend, that bolt you are talking about is a little tricky to get to, but I didn't have a problem getting any of them out, some were a bitch to break loose tho. Each of the 3 nuts on each side connecting the y-pipe twisted the studs right off though. Sounds mo-betta w/ the LT's. +1


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HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

how long did it take you

O Holy P

iTrader: (9)

Got everything done and out the door in about 8~9 hours. I did some other things too while I was working on it. Replaced the original plugs & wires, put the block off plate on the back of the intake where the exhaust tube hooked up, took the Borla cat-back off that came w/ the car off, and put the Hooker cat-back on, and also took the steel d/s out and put an aluminum one in.


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Pro_built7

iTrader: (9)

sounds good man i have a few questions though what did you guys do about the alternator bracket that attaches to the #1 header bolt (pass. side), like how are you supposed to use stage 8 bolts and that bracket? theres the same problem with the cruise control module (im assuming thats what it is) that sits over the driver valve cover- it mounts the same way to the header stud.. do i just not use the stage 8 bolts in those 2 places?

Ralls

iTrader: (32)

Get rid of the alternator bracket attaching to one of the header bolts. I did that and it's still solid.

Not sure what you mean about the cruise control module. That is suppose to be in the frame below your ABS block. I think your talking about Traction Control Module if your car came with it.

O Holy P

iTrader: (9)

I chunked the bracket that goes from the alt. to the head, and chunked the one that went from the alt. to the intake, just 2 bolts on the accy. bracket holding mine on, same way on my Z and it's been that way for years. No issues.


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