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My Story!!!!!

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Old 02-22-2008, 10:28 PM
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Default My Story!!!!! "UPDATE"

Well I started to tear my car apart in January. I have to work full time and go to school full time as well, needless to say not much time to work on it. My goal for the winter was to do a head and cam swap along with a procharger. Parts I ended up installing are listed below. In the past I have built several small blocks and a 496 stroker for my 69 Chevelle.

The car was easy to tear apart, I think the most difficult task for me was getting the radiator out and the harmonic balancer bolt out. For some reason the motor wouldn't lock up in ANY gear 1st,2nd,3rd,4th,5th,6th....nothing. Ended up runing a chain threw the balancer and around the sway bar, worked like a charm. As far as getting the oil pump off, dropping the pan a couple inches helped me tremendously. Before I pulled the cam out I made sure I had it dot to dot, after I installed the cam the sprocket and timing chain went on first try dot to dot.

Throwing the motor back together was a breeze, just took my time and double checked everything. For most of the head and cam install I was using LS1howto.com, that write up is very good. The only beef I had with it was the instructions on installing the rockers, they state throw them on and torque them down. For me I followed the GM pattern, find TDC torque valves/rockers blah blah blah turn 360 torque valves/rockers blah blah. Procharger install was a breeze, took some time to run the intercooler piping. I used the trap door method for the fuel pump, had second thoughts about it but glad I did in the long run.

Thanks to Gunner @ Patriot for the heads/pushrods/timing chain and tech help, thanks to Bob and Brent @ EPP for the cam/PCM tune, thanks to Jon @ Texas Speed for the intake and throttle body. Went to start the car today and it fired right up, idle is still a little sketchy. As of now I still have open headers but it will be at the exhaust shop ASAP for my custom true duals over the axle. After I get that done it's on the trailer to the dyno to get a good tune. I will have a vid up as soon as possible, for now enjoy the pics.

FAST 90 intake
PTM 90 throttle body
Mototron 60# injectors
Patriot LQ9 heads
EPP blower cam
COMP pushrods
JP timing chain
Melling HV oil pump
ATI balancer
Walbro intanke fuel pump
Fuel pump hotwire kit
Hooker LT
ARP head and balancer bolts
Procharger P-1sc 8 rib kit
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Last edited by badass99ss; 03-21-2008 at 11:17 PM.
Old 02-22-2008, 10:29 PM
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More....
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:39 PM
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that's awesome!!


btw. paragraphs are your friend lol
Old 02-22-2008, 10:40 PM
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Wow, nice job man, finished pics look great. You will be haulin Asssss!
Old 02-22-2008, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Cahill93Z28
that's awesome!!


btw. paragraphs are your friend lol
LOL.....you get what ya get....im tired
Old 02-22-2008, 10:55 PM
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That's a damn fine setup you got there. Can't wait to see the dyno #'s on it.
Old 02-22-2008, 11:20 PM
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What did you use/do to get your pistons and deck that clean? Nice, thanks for the picts.
Old 02-22-2008, 11:39 PM
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Good job, looks nice, now all we need is dyno numbers
Old 02-22-2008, 11:40 PM
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And some vids killing Evo's
Old 02-23-2008, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Long Beach
What did you use/do to get your pistons and deck that clean? Nice, thanks for the picts.
I used the plastic ice scraper to get the loose stuff off. After I did that I used a razor blade on the pistons(make sure the piston is at the top of the bore) don't hit the cylinder walls. To finish it up I used the softest wire wheel I could find followed by a pink scotch brite pad and brake clean. If you use the wire wheel make sure the piston you are working around is at TDC, also plug and tape your lifter bores last thing you want in your motor is a bunch of crap. Let the wheel do the work, don't apply any pressure.
Old 02-23-2008, 12:55 AM
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Old 02-23-2008, 03:31 PM
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Next project is the rear end....
Old 02-23-2008, 08:23 PM
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Great job!
Old 02-23-2008, 11:58 PM
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Thanks guys!
Old 02-24-2008, 01:48 AM
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This is going to sound stupid, but I'm curious. What is the trap door method for the fuel pump? I plan on running nitrous and want upgrade the pump, just hate to drop the tank if I don't have to.
Old 02-24-2008, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by badass99ss
I used the plastic ice scraper to get the loose stuff off. After I did that I used a razor blade on the pistons(make sure the piston is at the top of the bore) don't hit the cylinder walls. To finish it up I used the softest wire wheel I could find followed by a pink scotch brite pad and brake clean. If you use the wire wheel make sure the piston you are working around is at TDC, also plug and tape your lifter bores last thing you want in your motor is a bunch of crap. Let the wheel do the work, don't apply any pressure.
nice method, that was going to be my question...it looks clean as hell!
Old 02-24-2008, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 02WS6_TA
This is going to sound stupid, but I'm curious. What is the trap door method for the fuel pump? I plan on running nitrous and want upgrade the pump, just hate to drop the tank if I don't have to.
Like you I didn't want to "drop" the tank, it doesn't just "drop" out. Lower shock mount removal is mandatory, and the sway bar end links are questionable. That is what I have been told......The trap door method is simply cutting an access hole in the rear deck of your car to gain access to the fuel pump. Like I said I had second thoughts about cutting the car, but in the end it was easy and im glad I did it.

http://www.gonicd.com/intankinstall/...mpinstall.html
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Old 02-24-2008, 11:12 AM
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I just dont like the thought of having a big hole in my floorpan. I always just lower my tank out. It aso helps to work at a performance shop with a bunch of lifts.
Old 02-24-2008, 11:17 AM
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I'll be doing the exact same thing Minus the Pro charger next weekend. Great pics!!
Old 02-29-2008, 11:48 PM
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Got my true duals done today!!! Check them out.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post8826462



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