JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Anyone know anything about the MSD ignition box that is PRE 6 series?

Can't see a part number on it (installed in a bad spot).

It looks just like a 6A though just does not say it.

Need to know the specs on them. Does not say MSD 5 either.

mrdragster1970

.

Only one I remember was the 5.

.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm Ill have to go over at look at it some more.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Ok, the box is a MSD-6400 NOT A 6T.

http://www.racersauction.com/viewLot...3C%20%3C%20%3C

Apparently its close to the 6T

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku


How much of a benifet will it be to swap out everything to digital? Billet HEI distributor, DIS ignition box?

With whats out today I could get new stuff and ditch the spark retard box and this MSD box and just run the DIS box.

Talked to one of the hot rod guys at work and said if I am not wanting to bracket race it (Im not) that digital would be the way to go since I just want to built it to run all out.

G&HRacing

IMO from what you've told me you are wanting to do. I'd buy a MSD Digital 6 Plus, has 2 rev limiters, start retard, and a retard for nitrous. Bracket racing or not doesn't factor in at all. MSD DIS box is for late models with coil packs, not your application. You'll want a MSD Pro Billet distributor (hell no not an HEI) and what ever coil MSD recommends for the Digital box. I'd lock out the distributor and use the start retard in the box.

If you don't want to go with a digital box I'd go 7AL3, had one in my car since they first came out and never had a problem with it.

If you don't want to spend the money, use the box you already have and put a MSD pro billet distributor in it and go race it.

mrdragster1970

.

Use what you have for now. It has been working, why mess with. Use a good coil, wires & plugs and see how it runs.
If you are going to go nuts on N2O, watch for a good condition 7 box, 2 or 3, for a good price, that you know works.
Big fan of the 3 box myself.

.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

ahh I though the HEI distributor and the billet one was one in the same. Same for DIS and the digital boxes.

Im not going to touch the car untill next winter minus fixing the leaks.

Can I use the pro billet distributor with the box I have now? If I remember right you can only use those with 6A's and newer but I could be wrong.

68maro

if you wanna go all out and your keeping the car on the small tire get a 7531 box with an 8251 or 8261 coil with a pro billet dist and a crank trigger. it will be the last ign you have to buy. it will grow with you and do everything you could ever want.

G&HRacing

That's the ultimate setup, no doubt. I still like my 7AL-3 box, simple and effective.

I was trying to save him a little money. 7531 Digital7 Plus is almost $900, the Digital6 Plus is $320.

mrdragster1970

.

Agree, run what you have. You don't need all that stuff yet. My car went 6.50 @ 213 with a 7-2 box.
I was trying to keep him from wasting money. If the box still works, use it. If you want to spend money for some reason.
Get the crank trigger 1st, new box 2nd. Another 2 cents.

.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

I think what my plan will be is to swap in a billet distributor as long as MSD says it will work with this box or your guys say it will for sure and then leave the ignition alone for a while.

Save my money and this winter pull the motor and trans (trans shifts like its a factory trans even when I shift it) and freshen the motor and have the heads and intake done and most likley swap the cam (I know there is a lot better cam designs out now with all the advancements in lobe designs and all even if I keep roughly the same specs).

Im going to pull the top end off and take it over to Mike Duke Cylinder heads and have him do his magic.

After that Ill get the car safe to get into the 8's. Right now its legal to like high 11's.....

After that Ill tear into the ignition and fuel system and start playing with the nitrous.

Ever since I got into racing I have been a fast learner with the power curve (getting used to the power) and I got used to the power with this car pretty quick up to like 70 mph ish but any big hit of nitrous scares me right now. It will be a while before I am hiting it with a big shot. Im going to start very small and in second gear......

Keeping the N20 jets out, fuel pump out, and bottle out just so there is no temtation right now.

I have not decided if I want to go wider on the tire, depends if I can get the car into the 8's safe on it.

Im not worried about spending money on this car, I am trying to get all the best parts I can get, just want to take my time and not go nuts to fast and want to do it right the first time.

Dragster, how far are you from I-70? I am going out to Denver for my wedding the week of May 24th and if you are fairly close I might have to stop by on my way back.

mrdragster1970

.

Several hours.

Keep plugging away. House, wife & car. Good luck.

.

68maro

i agree but there is a difference between a tube chassis top sportsman ride and a stock suspension on a small tire. i'm not a fan of band aiding stuff. do it once be done with it and it'll last as long as you want.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

I got up under the car today and the tranny cooler lines are aluminum tubing from the tranny to the front of the car then it goes to rubber line, the rubber lines are shot.

The fuel lines are a bunch of materials, from the tank to the pumps its braided, from the filters to halfway to the front of the car is aluminum tubing, then its high temp orange ish line (high temp stuff that we put on airplanes). Then it turns into rubber line about a foot before the regulators, from them to the carb and nitrous is braided.

Do nitrous filters look just like the earls AN fuel filters when it comes to looks and size? I have what looks like another fuel filter (I have the Earls AN style out back) that tucked up under the alternator. I don't know if its going to the nitrous or the motor side yet. I can't see someone installing two filters in the same line so thats why I am thinking it may be a nitrous filter??????????

The rubber lines for the tranny cooler are shot, so is the upper and lower radiator hose, lower hose was made by connecting two hoses together to make it fit, works really well from what I can see.

This winter I am going to have 100% braided line for the tranny cooler lines and the fuel lines. I think this will be a lot nicer looking not to mention a lot safer and I can build the lines at work.

When radiator hoses blow at the track is it them exploding or just blowing off the radiator or motor?

Going to try and chance the oil and rear end fluid tommorow and replace the rubber tranny lines untill I can tear into it more next winter.

Jacking this car up in the front is REALLY dangerous, with the deep oil pan it welded on a peice of steel plate on the k-member pointing down to proteck the oil pan front stuff on the ground. The keeps you from jacking in that area unless you are really carefull and have a rubber pad on the jack. I tried jacking on the lower a-arm and put the jack stand under the a-arm were it mets the k-member and well, it looks like I won't do that again....

Going to try and jack it on the a-arm as close to the tire side of the a-arm as I can go if I can do that and not break the grease zerk fitting there.


Lesson learned today.......... be glad people have allways told you to lower the car as SLOWWWW as you can.

mrdragster1970

.

The car runs. He just bought a new house, & getting a new wife. Running what already works is not a bandaid, it's FREE.

Radiator hoses can split or the single clamp blow off or break when over pressured. Make sure there is no weak or hard spots.
I always double clamp & check often, I also run a high pressure system on all my cars.

.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Whats a high pressure system?????? Protection or just high pressure cooling?


Good idea on double clamping, someone else told me that also.

Is there a way to run big braided lines with AN connections for radiators?

Also going to ditch the belt driven cooling fan here in th enext day or so and just run the dual electrics.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Well with new plugs are wires (needed them anywase) the number 5 is still not firing so the next thing is the cap.

SHEEESSSHHHHHH!!!!!!!

mrdragster1970

.

I run a 26-30 lb rad cap. Don't know all the exact details, but an excellent engine builder/engineer I know recommends them for big power stuff.

I also have steel braided -20 hose I bought for rad hoses. Haven't welded on the adapters yet.
Still use the rubber hose with double clamps, until I get off my ***. Very expense fittings, hundreds of dollars.

.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info, I would rather spend hundreds and have a safer car, still cheaper then what I have invsted in the car allready, not to mention coming years.

Is that an off the shelf cap at the local parts store?

Also found out that true rubber fuel lines next to the headers are starting to rot.......

My fiance owes her mom a little bit of money, we are trying to get that paid for really quick so we can start putting some money away every month for the car this winter, its going to need it.............. Also looks like the nitrous fuel pump that I put on the motor side has a bad seal in it and has a slow leak under pressure. Just old parts that sat to long.....

All well.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Distributor and all looked fine (cap), pulled the driverside valve cover and the number 5 intake rocker was laying on its side and the nut was not to far away, stud is fine but the lifter is not in its hole, cam lobe looks fine, pushrod looks fine and not bent to the naked eye. Going to have to pull the intake to get the lifter out.


SHEESH!!!!!!!!! Explains why it was not firing right, car screams on 7 cylinders hahaha.