Formula1996

iTrader: (7)

Like the title says, I broke my stock drive shaft on a 3k launch with nitto DR's, and an LS7 clutch (mods in sig). I expected the U-joints to break first, and so did my buddies that were out there with me. I'll post pics of the break it was really clean. Mods are in sig, I really don't have much done so I was really surprised when I broke it on the first launch of the day, to my knowledge the car has only been to the track twice before by me (and only once before with DR's) and never with the previous owner, only has 29k miles on the clock. I had an extra DS sitting around and was lucky enough to have a friend that could take me back to the house and fetch it so I could fix the car at the track. My main concern now is can I expect a repeat with this stock DS or was this a freak occurence?

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

they will break get a chromoly or a pst aluminum they have really great warranties

Formula1996

iTrader: (7)

That leads me into my next question, if I decide to install a 9" later will I need a different length DS?

Tirefire

iTrader: (1)

No, I didn't have to with mine.

getusumws6

iTrader: (9)

the length of the stocker is correct for moser:12 bolt & 9" the S60 will be shorter if I remember correctly. Pst ds is around $430 and a strange c.m.from midwest is $295 or &275 w/ purchase of rearend.

CRAGER

The only thing different you might want as an option on 9" or 12-bolts is a 1350 yoke, which then you need 1350 driveshaft.

Peace,
Craig.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Very common....

COOKIE MONSTER

iTrader: (5)

Ouch, that sucks man! Hope it works out soon.

Arctic2002ss

Really? This is considered common? I've done several 4K launches(not quite dumping it) on DRs and was only worried about the rear end. Never even though I could break a drive shaft.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Consider yourself lucky, most likely you also havent laid down any decent 60 foots, hence NO dead hook.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Does a bear **** in the woods.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Well, that is somewhat correct. It will come with a 1350 u-joint and yoke up front right from the company, and one in the rear that will bolt up to the 10 bolt. When you go 12 bolt or 9 inch, you just have to swap out the rear u-joint with a true 1350, it should fit right in.

Formula1996

iTrader: (7)

Thanks everyone for all the great info and feed back!

Please excuse my ignorance on this topic but, is the 1350 part # for the U joint and/or yoke? Can I get them at any old part store or will i have to special order it?

When you say it will come with a 1350 yoke and U-joint up front, I'm assuming you mean pretty much any drive shaft thats after market?

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Most aftermarket rears comes with a stronger 1350 yoke, which is the part on the rear that the u joint bolts in to. To use the factory driveshaft a conversion u joint is used. The better aftermarket driveshafts come with 1350 yokes and 1350 U Joints, and to use one of these driveshafts with the factory 10 bolt the same conversion u joint mentioned above would be needed. Napa 240-0447X is what you would need. Bob

Formula1996

iTrader: (7)

Awesome, thanks for the info!

keliente

iTrader: (22)

Nice! Hope it didn't beat the underside of your car too badly.

Yes they do break commonly. I would list it as the #2 Most Likely Thing To Break On an F-Body When Racing, with #1 being the infamous 10 bolt.

deejaydaze

iTrader: (11)

Damn it...all this reading is going to make me buy one

Formula1996

iTrader: (7)

Nope, lucky me I just got done installing UMI's torque arm with the DS safety loop right before the race...

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Broke my stock drive shaft less than 2 months after I got my car. Get a big aluminum one or a c-moly, c-moly is what I am going with on mine.

Grn4fbody

iTrader: (2)

Not true, they make a conversion U-joint, but means all the presure will be on the front yoke of the driveshaft