Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Burn't Clutch MMMM

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Old 02-27-2008, 06:09 PM
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Default Burn't Clutch MMMM

Well I had another thread (Deleted it) stating I'v been having trouble getting into any gear cold and reverse alot (90% of the time) so far I did Orielly's DEX III and some generic DOT 3 (said synthetic made sure I flushed it totally clean did about 24 oz through it)

Anyways today I popped the clutch to get a little smoke show for a few friends (started at about 4k) let off and started revving up to bad it didn't let go.. got a nice clutch smoke show while moving still (5 mph) don't know what happened but as soon as I finished that I had to turn her off to get her in gear let it cool down checked fluid (dark grey go figure) and its easy to get into gear again (easier then ever..)

I don't know but this is pretty frustrating.. car has a reman T56 Tremec in it put in a around @ 50k miles car has 94k on it now (has a reman badge stamped to it so I know that parts true) he said they reused to stock clutch since it was fine and I imagine its the same hydro's (2000's)

Currently I got some Mobile 1 ATF Synthetic Tranny fluid (4 Quarts) was going to buy some synthetic clutch fluid and flush a whole bottle threw it to make sure the conventional(or cheap synthetic is out)

I'm pretty lost at what todo It feels like its something hydraulic... I goto school for auto mechanics it this has me stumped thank god the clutch still chirps 1st-2nd and dies in 5th still damn crazy stock clutch!

Last edited by Gun5; 02-27-2008 at 06:20 PM.
Old 02-28-2008, 06:36 PM
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found some interesting stuff after 2 days of looking for Master/Slave Cylinders


Orielly's and Advance auto said they are discontinued dealer parts (Slave).. bullsh

Advance Master is $121.. Orielly's is $71.. Auto zone's $91.99 - auto zones slave is $91.99..


rockauto.com is $58 Master by wagner, Slave is $69 (loaded with TO).. by Raybestos

But nothing has lines does the line really have to be replaced??? ima just buy the master/slave from rock and do the drill mod.. hopefully it helps my situation alittle at least ill have good hydro
Old 02-29-2008, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Gun5
I goto school for auto mechanics it this has me stumped thank god the clutch still chirps 1st-2nd and dies in 5th still damn crazy stock clutch!
Same **** happens to me with the stock clutch...but im getting the ls7 insteaded next week
Old 02-29-2008, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by justablur1
Same **** happens to me with the stock clutch...but im getting the ls7 insteaded next week
ya im looking at LS7 kits now.. but i dont want anything to hurt the next clutch so it has to be fixed first before I change out clutches
Old 02-29-2008, 04:20 PM
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Just get ALL new hydraulics with the new clutch. That way everything is new and you wont have to worry about anything as long as it is installed correctly.
Old 02-29-2008, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TheLS1Kid
Just get ALL new hydraulics with the new clutch. That way everything is new and you wont have to worry about anything as long as it is installed correctly.
I can get master/slave for $127 (with T/O) but I dont think it includes the line I was going to drill out the line and header wrap + the wrap thats on my EGR system right now
Old 02-29-2008, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Gun5
I can get master/slave for $127 (with T/O) but I dont think it includes the line I was going to drill out the line and header wrap + the wrap thats on my EGR system right now
Yeah you can reuse the line no problem.

I wrapped mine with heater hose and it made a huge difference.

Good luck!
Old 02-29-2008, 06:18 PM
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Out of paranoia, I went ahead and blew $300 on a genuine GM master and slave. Bad decision?
Old 02-29-2008, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by newton
Out of paranoia, I went ahead and blew $300 on a genuine GM master and slave. Bad decision?
I wouldn't say so. I'm not convinced that cheaper brands from auto parts stores are OEM quality by any means. At least with the GM parts, you know you've got good quality components.
Old 03-01-2008, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by TheLS1Kid
Yeah you can reuse the line no problem.

I wrapped mine with heater hose and it made a huge difference.

Good luck!
why does everyone use heater hose? wouldnt fiberglass (header wrap) be better? higher temp resistance.. im going to DOT 4 so I can raise boiling point aswell


Originally Posted by ONEBADASSWS6
I wouldn't say so. I'm not convinced that cheaper brands from auto parts stores are OEM quality by any means. At least with the GM parts, you know you've got good quality components.
well the slave is a Raybestos they usually make good stuff and wagner isnt a knock off company either.. as long as its bled right it should work fine

and GM quality.. think of the opti spark... even OEM ones don't start 50% of the time
Old 03-01-2008, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Gun5
why does everyone use heater hose? wouldnt fiberglass (header wrap) be better? higher temp resistance.. im going to DOT 4 so I can raise boiling point aswell
I suppose header wrap would be better. I had heater hose laying around so thats why I used it.
Old 03-01-2008, 10:51 AM
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I used heater hose, dot 4 synthetic and spark plug wire fire boots.

That will just protect your line from the heat of the exhaust, it will still get a lot of heat from the back of the engine/clutch. Change your fluid on a regular basis, especially if you track it.
Old 03-01-2008, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SladeX
I used heater hose, dot 4 synthetic and spark plug wire fire boots.

That will just protect your line from the heat of the exhaust, it will still get a lot of heat from the back of the engine/clutch. Change your fluid on a regular basis, especially if you track it.
just the occasional highway runs.. no hot lapping or anything

I know DOT 4 Syn but any specific brand?
Old 03-01-2008, 02:41 PM
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I've run valvoline and now Penzoil, noticed no real difference in performance or quality. Just the peace of mind it should handle a higher temp.
Old 03-01-2008, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SladeX
I've run valvoline and now Penzoil, noticed no real difference in performance or quality. Just the peace of mind it should handle a higher temp.
ya I was comparing the boiling points of the DOT 4's they are all pretty much the same in that respect..

on a side note had to move my dads vette around the driveway (06 C6) man I wish my shifter was that easy... no notchy-ness at all
Old 03-01-2008, 04:33 PM
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I think that has to do with the triple cone syncros... oh what I would give for my 6 speed to feel like that... then I look at my wallet and find empty lol
Old 03-08-2008, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SladeX
I think that has to do with the triple cone syncros... oh what I would give for my 6 speed to feel like that... then I look at my wallet and find empty lol
damn true that ill keep my money I paid 7k for this car he paid 4xk so theres going to be alittle difference




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