Installing clutch master cylinder in 68 bird, rod too long?
02-29-2008, 10:24 AM
#1
Installing clutch master cylinder in 68 bird, rod too long? I'm assuming i'm supposed to get a new, adjustable master cylinder then huh? I used the ATS plate, a stock 2001 master cylinder, new clutch/brake pedal assembly from t56kit.com and the rod going into the master cylinder is about an inch too long to attach to the pedal. Can i just shim the master cylinder out with washers and just buy some longer bolts to thread into the ATS plate? I figure it might break, but if it does ill be having to get a new master cylinder anyway.
02-29-2008, 10:42 AM
#2
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Most people modify the pedal assembly. THere are drawings at S&P and at T56 for doing this. We decided to try a different route, and cut the rod on the master cylinder, shortened it a little, threaded the rods, and put some jam nuts and a turnbuckle on it to make it adjustable. Then we drilled and threaded a hole in the pedal arm, and used a nylon washer as a spacer and used a heavy duty allen headed shoulder bolt. THen we modified the bracing above that point to act as a pedal stop by stopping the bolt head from travelling to far. Seems to work, but i do think you are better off doing the correct modification which involves welding a small piece of metal to the pedal assy. In the long run, if your master ever fails, you can just pop a new one in, we have to modify the bejeezus out of it first.
02-29-2008, 12:58 PM
#3
Ok i shimmed it out about and inch or so with a bunch of washers. It seems to work fine though i havent bled the system yet. Right now i had to move the 'rod' in about a little less than a 1/4" to get it on the pedal. Is this going to be too much pressure to sit on the master cylinder with? Like will it cause the clutch to slip? Also i have no stopper for the pedal but it seems to stop about halfway down when i guess the master cylinder bottoms out. Does this sound like it will be ok?
02-29-2008, 01:31 PM
#4
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Shawn-
Bad idea shimming the mast off the bracket. The master cylinder flange is plastic and it will flex and then break after a few strokes.
We can modify your master for $75 to make it adjustable.
Tyler
Bad idea shimming the mast off the bracket. The master cylinder flange is plastic and it will flex and then break after a few strokes.
We can modify your master for $75 to make it adjustable.
Tyler
02-29-2008, 02:15 PM
#5
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Shawn, the master has to run perfectly straight into the bore, and only have 15/16" of travel. We got away with our arangment because we made our rod length different. It should cost you almos tnothing to do the mod right... see this S&P install:
http://216.25.99.66/Streetstories/68...ls1camaro1.htm
http://216.25.99.66/Streetstories/68...ls1camaro1.htm
02-29-2008, 10:33 PM
#6
Well i used the ATS bracket, and it bolts up fine but the problem is the rod to the master cylinder sticks out further than the metal that is under the dash. Did you cut this away? I had actually though about welding the tab exactly as shown in the pic as i had an LS1 pedal setup that i cut the clutch connecting tab section out (about 2" worth) where the. rod would have connected.
Do you perhaps have a picture of the pedal installed with this piece under the dash? This would raise my clutch pedal way up.
Do you perhaps have a picture of the pedal installed with this piece under the dash? This would raise my clutch pedal way up.
02-29-2008, 11:02 PM
#7
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ify+pedal+weld
Shows that mod to be false so I'll be trying something else i guess. What is that clutch pushrod made out of? Cant it be welded?
Shows that mod to be false so I'll be trying something else i guess. What is that clutch pushrod made out of? Cant it be welded?
