LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I had a LS7 clutch in My LS1 with an aluminum LS2 FW... I liked it , but not.

I liked how I picked up some HP , but was a pain launching it... But now that I have slicks, I havent had a problem, so Id like to stick with an Aluminum FW, maybe just a tad heavier, but no more.. not steel....

what clutch do you recommend that will hold to my power level

I heard THE LS7 clutch and TExtralia both suck with the use of a T-56, the reason being, blocker rings wearing out excessively, especially 1-2 synchro, and I had an issue with this, and I was told because of where the clutch pedal sits it isnt the stock location adn for some reason more wear and tear is on the 102 blocker ring... I forget the exact issue and know Im not using all the proper terms. but Im just stating this anyway..

So although Ive heard not too many good things about them and I know the longevity isnt really that long. I was thinking of going with a SPEC 3 or 3+

who has the cheapest, or is there a newer better clutch I can use?

500whp maybe some more or some less, thats just a ballpark figure

3.73s through a moser 12 bolt

Daily driver thatll see track as well as dragstrip..

3400lb car 2002 M6 Z28

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Also I forgot to mention, I dont know if fully avoidable, But Id like a clutch that isnt gonna chatter on me. I understand its gonna grab harder and going to have almost no middle ground as to engaged and disengaged, vs an OEM clutch would... But a pretty tame clutch if possible, since its a DD...the tamest for the power level I plan on running..

GM_POWER

iTrader: (5)

Mcleod Twin for your power and street use, feels like a stock clutch on the pedal.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

besides this being expensive, is there any disadvantage to this? will it eat up my blocker rings due to improper engagement like the LS7 clutch did?

and is it gonna add to much weight to my drivetrain... all of these matter to me.. most reason being that I road race every few months..

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

jogh3208o

firechicken_98

iTrader: (8)

Spec 3+

I have a similar set-up, but with a little bit more power than that and mine seems to be ok on the street. I haven't taken it to the track yet though.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

why have i heard so much trash talk on the SPECs though...

Also I want this to be pretty driveable, I know Im gonna have to sacrifice some driveability for power, but I dont wanna go nuts either... lets say a clutch that is well for 600rwhp, just in case I decide to go bigger with the cam or nitrous..

whats gonna happen if I keep in my LS7 clutch?

firechicken_98

iTrader: (8)

I really couldn't tell you. I think if you look on this board long enough, everyone has said bad things about every clutch made for our cars. Most of the time it seems to be hydrolic related issues. Makes me wonder why no one has developed a system to replace the hydrolics on our cars with a cable or z-bar like the old camaro's. Seems like that would fix 90% of all clutch related issues that we have.

Hugger Z

iTrader: (4)

I have the LS7 with 500whp and have had no issues so far. I have not heard of this LS7 or tex blocker ring issue you spoke of. Since the LS7 is an OEM clutch, I can't see how it could cause T56 issues since it has to pass validation testing at GM. And if it caused said issues, would not be released for production.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

No issues with a Tex clutch here. I have no clue what your talking about, excessive wear. Maybe poor driving but the clutch itself will not hurt the trans.

The Tex clutches work exectly like stock but with a lil better pedal pressure. thats it.

I would heavily suggest a Textraila

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

The LS7 clutch for me was already not shifting well when I had in my haed/cam. Now Imgonna have a hell of a lot more torque with a bigger motor...

But Im also sure that was just a hydraulics issue that needed to be flushed and replace the fluids, since the fluid is a year old and Ive raced the car twice for road racing and the pedal was sinking between high rpm shifts...

But theLS7 clutch I have is with an aluminum FW, I doubt its gonna hold that power, at least for long. especially when I drag race it againwith the new motor..

The textralias was bashed on by T56 rblds for the improper engagement or whatnot Idont remember exactly what I was told but I was left with the impression that they arent the best either, due to that....

Also the LS7 clutch comes on the vettes, they have a different clutch and T-56 setup. thats why Im sure they havent had an issue...

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

SWo farIvebeen told

LS7
Textralia
Mcleod
Spec 3


For a daily driver(which means comfort) and to hold up my power, plus I wouldnt mind going a little overkill in case in the future Im gonna make more power...

what clutch?

So far, if it wasnt for the Textralia issues. I would have thought about that since itdrives almost like stock and holds lots of power.... Spec 3 or 3+ yes, because it can hold the power and is cheap, except that every other person has chatter issues... So I dunno about that

LS7 I doubt its gonna hold tht torque for long... plus I have 15 months on my LS7 clutch already about 10,000 miles of daily driving, drag racing and road racing... is there a LS7 based friction disc I can replace juust for now?

and McLeod seems just as good as the Textralia, but I havent heard enough about this...

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

As long as the clutch is fully releasing when the pedal is depressed it can't really cause any excessive wear on the transmission internals. As for my recomendation...above you mention our stage 3 but if you want a very drivable and torque friendly clutch kit the 3+ will be a better option. It is less prone to chatter, handles more torque, and is more drivable than the 3. All that being said picking it would be a no brainer over the 3 based on your expectations. Any of our dealers can assist you with pricing and if you have any further questions let me know. Thanks!

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Will all non OEM based clutches(so excluding LS6, LS7 clutches) have somewhat chatter? because I want no chatter if possible..

Then the 3+ is a better driver option, and handles more torque and less "prone" to chatter of course thats what Id want, but that doesnt makes sense. how can it drive better and handle more torque? unless there is multiple friction discs(which there isnt) or a higher friction coefficient(which will make it drive worse) unless the actual disc is just bigger, which Im sure it isnt... it couldnt hold more torque..

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

more answersss

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

whatever clutch you choose get new hydraulics!
dumdumdumdum

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

Hey spec why don't you go ahead with all your excuses on how it is not your fault. And Lies I caught you personally last week maybe you should tell everyone all the excuses so they know them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:mad : Do anything else but a spec look at the post especially the 3+ it is junk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Second round not broke in yet and it acts stupid (chattering like a peice of crap outside the car even) in a different way than before. Not even broke in yet. I will go back to a Mcleod or probally ram maybe the tex I am sure this one will not hold 500 Rwhp like the last one 3000 miles of daily driving. But my stock motor p-1 procharger peaks over 800rwhp. Yeah right Jeremy????? I am at 400 miles break in I better baby it till it dies or I have a replacement in hand. Because next time it will not be a spec!!!

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

This is true. However.... I got new hydraulics about 15 months ago and it has less than 10,000 miles on it... should that be ok?

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

they need to make a LS7 clutch, that can hold a bit more power, so with a more agressive friction disc and some stronger teeth on the PP and some stronger springs. so itll give us N/A guys under 550-600rwhp a driveable, affordable,high tq capacity clutch..

Jon5212

iTrader: (2)

All those things you ask for for a 550-600 RWHP don't really exist. Some maybe partially driveable... but its not going to be stock feel. Affordable... that depends on your view of "affordable" and high torque capacity/horsepower capacity go along with what you are willing to accept as "driveable". You may need to look into a twin disc setup.