Need A Little Help :)
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Need A Little Help :)
I have read a good majority of the sticky threads in here that I need to but I still have some questions. After getting all the bolt on's....put on I plan on replacing the cam/headers.
My first question is (don't laugh I really don't know to much about cars) what is the difference between long tube headers and the short ones? Is there a real difference between them or just preference? Ok on to my next question.
I want my car to sound good but I'm more concerned about how much power I'm putting down than how good my car sounds. So for what I want what are a couple of cam's you guys would suggest?
Oh by the way I did fine this website http://www.eportworks.com/lt1.html but like I read in the cam/stock heads sticky it has to get to high rpm's to reach that kind of horsepower?
My first question is (don't laugh I really don't know to much about cars) what is the difference between long tube headers and the short ones? Is there a real difference between them or just preference? Ok on to my next question.
I want my car to sound good but I'm more concerned about how much power I'm putting down than how good my car sounds. So for what I want what are a couple of cam's you guys would suggest?
Oh by the way I did fine this website http://www.eportworks.com/lt1.html but like I read in the cam/stock heads sticky it has to get to high rpm's to reach that kind of horsepower?
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Welcome to the site.
Your going to want to do some reading by searching.
To keep it summarized Long Tubes will make more power, but relocate the cats and give up some ground clearance.(long tubes also require a y pipe.)
Short tubes will most likely retain factory cat positions, and keep ground clearance the same. (no problems passing emissions with these)
If emissions are not a concern, then go with long tubes. Sometimes state inspectors dont care if you have relocated cats on a car, just as long as they are there.
As for the cam selection, read and read and then read. It is important to understand what your putting in your car and how it will effect it. You want to make sure you get the right one for your needs and future plans.
Your going to want to do some reading by searching.
To keep it summarized Long Tubes will make more power, but relocate the cats and give up some ground clearance.(long tubes also require a y pipe.)
Short tubes will most likely retain factory cat positions, and keep ground clearance the same. (no problems passing emissions with these)
If emissions are not a concern, then go with long tubes. Sometimes state inspectors dont care if you have relocated cats on a car, just as long as they are there.
As for the cam selection, read and read and then read. It is important to understand what your putting in your car and how it will effect it. You want to make sure you get the right one for your needs and future plans.
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Well you said you want to replace "cam/headers", I'll assume you said that either in confusion or a typo. Stock is call an exhaust manifold, it's just a bit piece of cast iron. So if you HAVE headers, then you won't want to replace them, since swapping them for anything else would be silly! On a similar note, headers are considered a Bolt-On.
Bolt-Ons are quite a few things, and as Elliot's site shows, to make the estimated power you'd need "30 lb. injectors, 52 MM T.B., 1 ¾ LT’s no cats, good tuning". LT s Long Tube Headers if you didn't know already. TB is Throttle Body, stock size is 48mm. Stock injectors are 24 lb. Tuning, isn't exactly a bolt on, but it's required after any major changes, especially internally. You can get away w/o one after bolt ons, but once you get injectors (even if you only get them) you'll need a tune to factor in the larger size. Where Bolt-Ons "end" is sort of debatable. General thinking is a bolt-on is anything that doesn't change the internals of the motor. So heads, intake, exhaust, anything to flow air, fuel injectors and pump; would all be a bolt on. That's not all mind you, but the basics. There's always Forced Induction as well, but that's a whole other ball game.
Horsepower is always in the upper RPMs, Toque is the lower RPMS. So when it says (for LE1) 2000-6,200, it means that it starts making some good HP around 2K and peaks @ 6,200. At least I assume that's what he means. He could also mean you're making some really good toque at 2K, and then 1/2 way up the HP is what kicks in (because toque starts to drop off) and keeps you pulling. I'm kind of more inclined to go with that theory.
Still, LE1 would be a good start for you, but only after you get all the accompanying bolt-ons and see how you like it.
As for exhaust and sound, well SLP Loudmouth and Magnaflow's are the 2 that pretty much give the best sound while still not being horribly loud under normal driving. You can also add in a cut-out which diverts the exhaust and basically bypasses the rest of the exhaust and frees up 5-10hp. People use them at the track where noise isn't an issue and power is
Bolt-Ons are quite a few things, and as Elliot's site shows, to make the estimated power you'd need "30 lb. injectors, 52 MM T.B., 1 ¾ LT’s no cats, good tuning". LT s Long Tube Headers if you didn't know already. TB is Throttle Body, stock size is 48mm. Stock injectors are 24 lb. Tuning, isn't exactly a bolt on, but it's required after any major changes, especially internally. You can get away w/o one after bolt ons, but once you get injectors (even if you only get them) you'll need a tune to factor in the larger size. Where Bolt-Ons "end" is sort of debatable. General thinking is a bolt-on is anything that doesn't change the internals of the motor. So heads, intake, exhaust, anything to flow air, fuel injectors and pump; would all be a bolt on. That's not all mind you, but the basics. There's always Forced Induction as well, but that's a whole other ball game.
Horsepower is always in the upper RPMs, Toque is the lower RPMS. So when it says (for LE1) 2000-6,200, it means that it starts making some good HP around 2K and peaks @ 6,200. At least I assume that's what he means. He could also mean you're making some really good toque at 2K, and then 1/2 way up the HP is what kicks in (because toque starts to drop off) and keeps you pulling. I'm kind of more inclined to go with that theory.
Still, LE1 would be a good start for you, but only after you get all the accompanying bolt-ons and see how you like it.
As for exhaust and sound, well SLP Loudmouth and Magnaflow's are the 2 that pretty much give the best sound while still not being horribly loud under normal driving. You can also add in a cut-out which diverts the exhaust and basically bypasses the rest of the exhaust and frees up 5-10hp. People use them at the track where noise isn't an issue and power is
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Wow lol I'm glad I made this thread now. Thanks a lot to both of you.
Formula350: So it would just be a waste of money for me to get new headers instead of just sticking with the stock ones ...correct?
Yeah I was actually looking at buying the SLP Loudmouth exhaust but I wasn't so sure about how they perform so thanks for mentioning that . And now that I know what to do...I just need to get the money
Formula350: So it would just be a waste of money for me to get new headers instead of just sticking with the stock ones ...correct?
Yeah I was actually looking at buying the SLP Loudmouth exhaust but I wasn't so sure about how they perform so thanks for mentioning that . And now that I know what to do...I just need to get the money
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Infinite cleared it up for ya, stock is NOT called a header.
Yea, it really is a toss up. Seeing as that doesn't change any of the internals, you could consider it to be a bolt on just like the intake. It's really a stretch though.
Yea, it really is a toss up. Seeing as that doesn't change any of the internals, you could consider it to be a bolt on just like the intake. It's really a stretch though.
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Your first step should be to establish some solid goals while keeping in mind exactly how the car will be used. I don't understand it myself, but a lot of people choose to use rear wheel dyno numbers fot their goals. The problem with that is when your dyno queen gets spanked by a car with less horse power.
Once you know what you want the car to do, you can find people with similar cars and basicly copy their combo. Most people on here will help you out if you ask. Do lot's of research, plan carefully and don't believe everything that you read.
Once you know what you want the car to do, you can find people with similar cars and basicly copy their combo. Most people on here will help you out if you ask. Do lot's of research, plan carefully and don't believe everything that you read.
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Best suggestion is to set a goal before you start getting into the money pit.
How long have you had your camaro? Just wondering if its a new car for you or something you've had for a while and are just now getting the 'bug'.
Also, not sure how much of the car scene you've been around but, if your not sure what your looking for goal-wise, definitely find out where some local clubs meet up and take a ride in some other cars and learn from others experiences (and mistakes) in person. Check out the Texas Regional forum on here to start getting to know your locals.
How long have you had your camaro? Just wondering if its a new car for you or something you've had for a while and are just now getting the 'bug'.
Also, not sure how much of the car scene you've been around but, if your not sure what your looking for goal-wise, definitely find out where some local clubs meet up and take a ride in some other cars and learn from others experiences (and mistakes) in person. Check out the Texas Regional forum on here to start getting to know your locals.
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def wait and read and plan and wait and read and save and plan some more... this hobbie takes time and more time if u are new.... i started off exactly like you... exactly 3 years ago... i have been a forum addict ever since... (2,200 posts on camaroz28.com) If i were u i would start with doing every bolt on u can discover.... 1. a full bolt on car (esp an a4) shouldnt break anything 2. Bolt ons are the base mods and will compliment bigger mods like heads, cam, nitrous, forced induction, etc. 3. its less complicated to do and much cheaper... then once u have completed the bolt ons move on to something else... Also deciede first off what ur plans for your car are, is it going to be a drag car only? a street car only? a Daily driver (DD)? or a mixture of both? depending on what u aim for in the car is what mods u will do... Also plan longterm goals.... but dont rush to get them... be patienct... also set yearly or 2 year goals... like 13.5 et by the end of the year... or so on and so on....
alland all have fun be careful, be safe, and just know what u want before u jump into something crazy like a head cam swap
alland all have fun be careful, be safe, and just know what u want before u jump into something crazy like a head cam swap
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Best suggestion is to set a goal before you start getting into the money pit.
How long have you had your camaro? Just wondering if its a new car for you or something you've had for a while and are just now getting the 'bug'.
Also, not sure how much of the car scene you've been around but, if your not sure what your looking for goal-wise, definitely find out where some local clubs meet up and take a ride in some other cars and learn from others experiences (and mistakes) in person. Check out the Texas Regional forum on here to start getting to know your locals.
How long have you had your camaro? Just wondering if its a new car for you or something you've had for a while and are just now getting the 'bug'.
Also, not sure how much of the car scene you've been around but, if your not sure what your looking for goal-wise, definitely find out where some local clubs meet up and take a ride in some other cars and learn from others experiences (and mistakes) in person. Check out the Texas Regional forum on here to start getting to know your locals.
As far as my plans: I want a lot of power on the ground I could really care less what the dyno says all I care about are the numbers at the track. But for a few years it will also be my DD so I don't want to go to crazy and be paying more for gas than I do my insurance. And you are right about riding in someone else's LT1 because I have yet to be in another LT1 car only LS1 cars....well I take that back my uncle took me for a ride in his 94 Corvette ..I think that is the right year, but not to sure it did have an LT1 though.
At the moment I really want to get a CAI and new exhaust. I have heard the Hooker Cat Back exhaust but...I'm not sure which model it was but it sounded sick. So yeah I have a lot more thinking to do before I buy to much.
Last edited by Jwmaddo; 03-10-2008 at 12:24 AM.