Rant!
03-09-2008, 03:45 AM
#1
Rant! God I hate this T56...... never driven a manual car that was so ******* stubborn....... between not wanting to go into any gear cold until its warmed up for a few miles.. to not being able to shift over 5k (most of the time) and being notchy as hell.. and impossible to down shift to 2nd unless you go 1st > 2nd real quick
tranny is a rebuilt trem and i just changed the fluid to generic dex III and put some DOT3 clutch fluid in it
just had to rant again on this POS atleast it doesnt ever grind or pop out of gear
tranny is a rebuilt trem and i just changed the fluid to generic dex III and put some DOT3 clutch fluid in it
just had to rant again on this POS atleast it doesnt ever grind or pop out of gear
03-10-2008, 02:18 AM
#5
this stock **** sucks all around, some days the car is happy it just goes into gears driving just fine.. then most days its notchy, i wake up to no gears at all having to pump pump pump while waiting for it to warm up to go into first or reverse or just start the car in gear drive it and make sure i dont stop at N then after operating temp is reached its mid level shifting decent not really to complain able
its a pattern that is getting old.. then when it doesn't want to behave when im trying to WOT shift
its a pattern that is getting old.. then when it doesn't want to behave when im trying to WOT shift
03-10-2008, 10:11 AM
#7
Pumping the pedal to get pressure just screams hydraulics. newer 01-02 piece for the not getting in gear issue, drill mod for the WOT shifting, probably new clutch if the hydraulics were going and you still drove it.
syncros at the least for the popping of gears (once again caused by the hydraulics not disengaging the clutch leading to the syncros doing more of the work to get it in gear)
Hard to get in gear, clutch not disengaging due to hydraulics...
see a pattern here?
Sounds like you are almost beyond saving the thing with a simple bleed. The insistence to do WOT shifting when there are other symptoms already warning against this makes you wonder why the transmission hasn't decided to grenade on you yet.
syncros at the least for the popping of gears (once again caused by the hydraulics not disengaging the clutch leading to the syncros doing more of the work to get it in gear)
Hard to get in gear, clutch not disengaging due to hydraulics...
see a pattern here?
Sounds like you are almost beyond saving the thing with a simple bleed. The insistence to do WOT shifting when there are other symptoms already warning against this makes you wonder why the transmission hasn't decided to grenade on you yet.
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03-10-2008, 04:20 PM
#8
Pumping the pedal to get pressure just screams hydraulics. newer 01-02 piece for the not getting in gear issue, drill mod for the WOT shifting, probably new clutch if the hydraulics were going and you still drove it.
syncros at the least for the popping of gears (once again caused by the hydraulics not disengaging the clutch leading to the syncros doing more of the work to get it in gear)
Hard to get in gear, clutch not disengaging due to hydraulics...
see a pattern here?
Sounds like you are almost beyond saving the thing with a simple bleed. The insistence to do WOT shifting when there are other symptoms already warning against this makes you wonder why the transmission hasn't decided to grenade on you yet.
syncros at the least for the popping of gears (once again caused by the hydraulics not disengaging the clutch leading to the syncros doing more of the work to get it in gear)
Hard to get in gear, clutch not disengaging due to hydraulics...
see a pattern here?
Sounds like you are almost beyond saving the thing with a simple bleed. The insistence to do WOT shifting when there are other symptoms already warning against this makes you wonder why the transmission hasn't decided to grenade on you yet.
car isn't popping out of gears and doesn't grind at all I dont know if the pumping really works if I kind of try a few times not using to much force it usually does it aswell.. today it was all good went into reverse like nothing about 30 minutes ago after a 30-45 mile drive but this morning no joy... I don't understand if its the transmission fluid in it which is doing that because hydraulic problems should be all the time
03-10-2008, 04:25 PM
#9
The clutch hydraulics on these cars can be persnickety if everything isn't working as it should. It can cause massive shifting problems, especially at high RPMs.
How much time and effort are you willing to put into this? If you can do your own work, it might be worth replacing all of the hydraulics, and putting in a bleeder extension to make life easier.
Otherwise, your transmission is gonna need some serious help if you don't get this fixed soon.
How much time and effort are you willing to put into this? If you can do your own work, it might be worth replacing all of the hydraulics, and putting in a bleeder extension to make life easier.
Otherwise, your transmission is gonna need some serious help if you don't get this fixed soon.
03-10-2008, 04:27 PM
#10
The clutch hydraulics on these cars can be persnickety if everything isn't working as it should. It can cause massive shifting problems, especially at high RPMs.
How much time and effort are you willing to put into this? If you can do your own work, it might be worth replacing all of the hydraulics, and putting in a bleeder extension to make life easier.
Otherwise, your transmission is gonna need some serious help if you don't get this fixed soon.
How much time and effort are you willing to put into this? If you can do your own work, it might be worth replacing all of the hydraulics, and putting in a bleeder extension to make life easier.
Otherwise, your transmission is gonna need some serious help if you don't get this fixed soon.
I'v already bled the clutch and changed transmission fluid me and my father got a lift so doing the work isn't a issue.. whats this bleeder extension I was going to drill a hole?
03-10-2008, 04:37 PM
#11
Do a search for "slave bleeder extension"...there is no need to drill a hole in your car. It replaces the bleeder screw on the slave with a line that you can run up into your engine bay, and lets you bleed the hydraulics from there.
If you are clever, you can use a Motive Power bleeder to bleed the system as well
It sounds like you have the equipment...now you need to have the discipline to not try forcing the trans into gear if it doesn't want to go at high RPMs. You may have done some damage already, and getting a quality rebuild is not a cheap proposition.
If you are clever, you can use a Motive Power bleeder to bleed the system as well
It sounds like you have the equipment...now you need to have the discipline to not try forcing the trans into gear if it doesn't want to go at high RPMs. You may have done some damage already, and getting a quality rebuild is not a cheap proposition.
03-10-2008, 04:44 PM
#12
Do a search for "slave bleeder extension"...there is no need to drill a hole in your car. It replaces the bleeder screw on the slave with a line that you can run up into your engine bay, and lets you bleed the hydraulics from there.
If you are clever, you can use a Motive Power bleeder to bleed the system as well
It sounds like you have the equipment...now you need to have the discipline to not try forcing the trans into gear if it doesn't want to go at high RPMs. You may have done some damage already, and getting a quality rebuild is not a cheap proposition.
If you are clever, you can use a Motive Power bleeder to bleed the system as well
It sounds like you have the equipment...now you need to have the discipline to not try forcing the trans into gear if it doesn't want to go at high RPMs. You may have done some damage already, and getting a quality rebuild is not a cheap proposition.
no funny noises and stuff.. im just debating if I should do a PRO5 at the same time im on stock shifter with short stick and i mean stock stamped
03-10-2008, 04:47 PM
#13
I used to get pissed at mine and just hammer the **** out of it.
If you are doing the hydraulics, the slave bleeder extension is a must in my book. Once you get all of that stuff done, that'll at least eliminate that variable. Hopefully your transmission issues go away along with it...
03-10-2008, 04:48 PM
#14
That's better than me
I used to get pissed at mine and just hammer the **** out of it.
If you are doing the hydraulics, the slave bleeder extension is a must in my book. Once you get all of that stuff done, that'll at least eliminate that variable. Hopefully your transmission issues go away along with it...
I used to get pissed at mine and just hammer the **** out of it.
If you are doing the hydraulics, the slave bleeder extension is a must in my book. Once you get all of that stuff done, that'll at least eliminate that variable. Hopefully your transmission issues go away along with it...
03-10-2008, 05:33 PM
#15
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Its funny how people refer back to old technology when things start to go bad . Suggesting that people should use a bronze pilot bushing instead of the roller bearing from the factory is one of those examples .
03-10-2008, 06:02 PM
#16
Well I'v done many clutch jobs and alot of times they give a bearing and a bushing.. I dunno I'v read on here alot of bearings not being bearings after awhile and 6 speeds inc even sells a bushing and I'd trust anyone there over my experience of manuals from school and at the shop due to the fact thats all they do..
03-10-2008, 06:09 PM
#17
Well I'v done many clutch jobs and alot of times they give a bearing and a bushing.. I dunno I'v read on here alot of bearings not being bearings after awhile and 6 speeds inc even sells a bushing and I'd trust anyone there over my experience of manuals from school and at the shop due to the fact thats all they do..
I've heard pilot bearing horror stories on here as well, and I even rock one of their transmissions, but I can assure you that I'll be running a pilot bearing in my crank for a long, long time.
03-10-2008, 06:18 PM
#18
IMO, that's a bad idea. You have to be able to make educated decisions on your own, not based on what you hear on the internet.
I've heard pilot bearing horror stories on here as well, and I even rock one of their transmissions, but I can assure you that I'll be running a pilot bearing in my crank for a long, long time.
I've heard pilot bearing horror stories on here as well, and I even rock one of their transmissions, but I can assure you that I'll be running a pilot bearing in my crank for a long, long time.
I wouldn't be at where I am now deciding a LS7 clutch if I wasn't doing my own thing I'd be buying a china made SPEC 3 like everyone
03-10-2008, 07:30 PM
#19
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I'm on the hydraulics bandwagon 
I used to always use the traditional bleeding method with a buddy, and my m6 was notchy, and hard to shift at high rpms. Did a clutch install when none of my friends were around, so i picked up a vacuum bleeder, and bled it from the top. Night and day difference! I've also used it on my buddies cars after they've already been blead traditionally, and have been able to pull out an impressive amount of remaining air from the system. The tool is cheap, the bleed is easy, and it's a good place to start when diagnosing your issues.
I used to always use the traditional bleeding method with a buddy, and my m6 was notchy, and hard to shift at high rpms. Did a clutch install when none of my friends were around, so i picked up a vacuum bleeder, and bled it from the top. Night and day difference! I've also used it on my buddies cars after they've already been blead traditionally, and have been able to pull out an impressive amount of remaining air from the system. The tool is cheap, the bleed is easy, and it's a good place to start when diagnosing your issues. Last edited by Karpellarpy; 03-10-2008 at 07:31 PM. Reason: grammar
