Cigarette 70

iTrader: (2)

What does it take to get a 99-02 M6 car to safely put the power to the ground?

Is the 10 bolt the weakest link on these?

1BadAzzWS6

iTrader: (11)

Yes the rear is the weakest followed by the clutch. I would highly recommend a 9" rear. I have a Moser 9" with the tru-trac and 4.11's and have had zero problems or issues. You'll want to upgrade the clutch too. I can tell you I personally tried the Spec Stage III and hated it. I roasted it in less than a year. Now I've had a Centerforce clutch for almost 2yrs with zero chatter or problems whatsoever. The last issue you'll have is traction... I have a set of 17x11 rims on the rear with Nitto 555R's 315/35/17's on them for the street and they hook very well, but def not so much at the track(best I've gotten out of them at the track is a low 1.7 60').

Good luck and if you have any questions just ask... def lots of good knowledge on this board.

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

Grandpa driving lol and the 10 bolt is the weakest link. Why did you leave out the '98 model? I would say atleast a 12 bolt to handle some beating on the street, but a 9" would cure all.

Cigarette 70

iTrader: (2)

I'm sorry, i forgot the 98.. looks like you have one and don't want to be left out ;p

I am currently looking around at cars to buy here in the next few months and I'm trying to get all the info I can. I would love a M6 car, but I would want it to be up to par with a stalled auto(ET wise).

I would only see the track possibly twice a month in good weather and the car would be a daily.

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

^^Yeah I do have a '98, but it's ok. The 98's are dogged on a little bit. Anyways, it's all about personal preference. I prefer the M6 cause it's fun to drive and a helluva rush at the track. I don't DD mine, but I have DD'd several manuals in the past and if you spend alot of time in traffic then an auto wouldn't be a bad choice. As far as keeping up with a stalled auto, well that depends on how well you can row the gears.

1BadAzzWS6

iTrader: (11)

Get a M6 hands down!!!

Cigarette 70

iTrader: (2)

Very true.. driver mod definitely does help!

I do work from home currently, so traffic is not too much of a worry. I figure I will be ready to buy around September of this year, so I have some time to peak around at cars.

I'll put the M6 cars at the top of the list I drive an auto now and it does get boring..

Thanks for the help

ibanez7

iTrader: (7)

i have a 2001 z28 m6.

and yes I would say the factory 10 bolt is the weakest component of the car. Some people have had them break on stock power, others like myself have made many track passes on them with more then stock power. Regardless its something that either you can replace before it breaks or save the cash and wait until it breaks. However do not upgrade the factory 10 bolt 3.42 gears to the 4.10 gears. The 4.10 gears are thinner, less material and break easy.

I also do not recommend centerforce clutches. My centerforce did not last more then 3000 miles and 6 track passes. The clutch was properly installed and broken in but did not hold up. Also the weight system on the pressure plate fingers are known to either break off or cause vibration through the transmission input shaft and ruin the trans.

Centerforce may work for stock power, my car is not stock for hp. Sadly I needed a clutch in two days and the only thing available at the time was centerforce. I have now switched over to the Mcleod RST twin disk. Cant wait to try it and write a review.

Yes a moser 9" is a good rearend. I do suggest the Strange Dana s60. Its bigger then both a moser 9" and any 12 bolt. Also it comes assembled from Strange, everything is setup including backlash, all you have to do is attach it to your car.

1BadAzzWS6

iTrader: (11)

That sux about your clutch. I was cam only with 100 shot(dyno'd 470rwhp) at the time and like I said, I roasted a Spec Stage III in less than year... at that wasn't daily driven. Those were only weekend warrior miles and track use.

I had a local shop put in a Centerforce clutch made specifically for FI or Nitrous applications. Since then I've had the rear replaced with 4.11's and added heads and a new tune and still have the spray(100 dry shot) on the car. The clutch has lasted twice and as long as hasn't slipped or let me down whatsoever(knock on wood). Just my $.02.

And yea, I've heard great things about the Mcleod twin disc... I just didn't want to drop that much coin at the time.

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

Don't forget the driveshaft is also weak.

Torkman15

iTrader: (2)

You can go pretty fast with the stocker though, just depends on race weight and available traction. I didnt swap my stock shaft out till I had a cool conversation piece to hang on the wall...

1BadAzzWS6

iTrader: (11)

I haven't changed mine out yet.. then again I haven't run anything stronger than a DR at the track.

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

If you work from home and don't have to deal with traffic, definately go with the M6. If you wait til later in the year to buy you'll probably have alot of choices to choose from since the 5th gen is coming out. I figure quite a few of them will come up for sale. That's what we're hoping for so we can get my wife one sometime this year. Your welcome for the help. I and so many other's on here will help out as much as we can. Happy shopping.

miamifan3413

iTrader: (1)

Hey 98's have their upside compared to newer years....better flexplate, gauges that actually work, auburn posi.....it's just as good as others IMO Once you start modding, it starts to level the playing field. Not trying to start a debate here but you got yourself a worthy car I prefer M6 myself too.....always thought that a true sports car was stick, however it's all about preference

miamifan3413

iTrader: (1)

It's not that bad until u start dumping the clutch at high rpm's of the line or spraying big shots. Then a steel driveshaft would be needed.....for a DD it's fine IMO I mean the 10 bolt would give before the driveshaft ever would.....I wouldn't run aluminum with a 9" or 12 bolt though.

BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

Go M6!!! I just bought a t/a and have had it for 3 weeks. Tho it's been getting painted and then repainted cause t-tops like to fly out of my car. It's been in the shop more than in my garage. Within that time period I fell in love with the M6 over the A4. I don't think i'll ever go back unless I buy a DD. Don't put any money into the 10 bolt at all. I only have 4:10s in mine cause the previous owner put them in. If you plan on going to the track and racing from digs I would go ahead and start saving for a rear end fast. I have most of the bolt ons and a stock rear end with 4:10s. I race from 30mph and up. Can't afford a rear end quite yet. But blah blah blah get a M6!!!

Black_Jack

iTrader: (-1)

i broke my first rear end on stock power and now the secound one is starting to go out.
so deffently get a 12 bolt or 9''

Super Speed

iTrader: (8)

My 10 bolt lived to tell the tale of a 12.3 on a m6 lol

unicursalhex

I have been looking into rear ends lately, I plan on doing LT's, Heads, and a cam so I'd better get a rear end and a clutch before I bum myself out. May go with an LS7 clutch??? I definately don't want to replace it every 6 months...

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I suggested the driveshaft as you usually have to modify the stock one to fit a new rearend. After spending so much money on a stronger rearend, what's another few hundred to get something you know won't die on you? I would rather not have holes ripped in the floor of my car.