jhilb

iTrader: (4)

I purchased a used Precision SC-6152E.

Any advice on how to 'clock' the turbo? Torque specs for nuts, etc?

Also, how do I tell which is the oil inlet vs. outlet? Does it matter?

Anyone want to take a guess at HP once I run these in twin configuration on a stock LS6? Eventually I will lower the C/R with LS9 truck heads. Just wonder what RWHP might be worth now, and maybe in future. Specs are .63 exhaust, .6 compressor.

Thanks,
Jeff

DMH Fabrication

iTrader: (126)

Clock it however you need it to fit. Feed side up, drain down. Just tighten the nuts snug with a wrench. No need to toque them. Oil inlet is a smaller hole, normally tapped with a pipe thread. Drain is a larger hole which you normally bolt a plate to for hooking up your drain line.

Edit: if you still don't know the feed and drain sides post a picture and I will tell you

Hope that helps some...

jhilb

iTrader: (4)

Thanks a bunch. With your help I think I got it figured out.

There is quite a bit of difference between what is my drain and the inlet. How come the inlet is so small compared to the outlet? To keep the pressure up?

Jeff

Full Throttle

Turbos are fed by pressure and gravity drain so the outlet is bigger, make sure you use a large return line that drains below the turbo or you will have oil seal problems. If you need help let me know
Mike

jhilb

iTrader: (4)

Thanks. Might take you up on that. I will be 'clocking' the turbo this weekend. I will be sure to put the outlet down side then.

Thanks,
Jeff

jhilb

iTrader: (4)

OK, so I got the bolt hold the center section to the exhaust section loosened. Most are out except for two.

Now the metal washer/rings those actually hold the bearing section in place right?

Should I be able to just twist the center bearing section into the appropriate position or do all the bolts have to actually come out?

Jeff

DMH Fabrication

iTrader: (126)

Just loosen all the bolts on the metal rings that hold the center section to the exh. or compressor housing. It may need a little tap to get it broke free and turning if the turbos have been run before and are rusty.

jhilb

iTrader: (4)

OK, thanks. Going to go give it a shot.

Jeff

jhilb

iTrader: (4)

Darn thing wouldn't budge. Will try again tomorrow.

DMH Fabrication

iTrader: (126)

Try spraying PB Blaster around the joint where the center section meets the exhaust housing. Let that sit for a little while and then try it again.

jhilb

iTrader: (4)

Great minds think a like. I tried PB Blaster last night and smacked the exhaust flanges pretty good. Maybe better luck since it sat overnight.... will find out in a few minutes..

jhilb

iTrader: (4)

Stupid thing won't budge. Any other suggestions please?

Jeff

jhilb

iTrader: (4)

Are there some kind of pins keeping me from rotating the hot side? I see some of the foreign turbos seems to use pins to keep them in a particular position.

ALLBOTTLE

iTrader: (13)

wd40 or penetrating spray since it's used it can have a lot of carbon buildup and be seized.

jhilb

iTrader: (4)

Tried PB Blaster. Trying WD40 now. Man this thing is stuck.

jhilb

iTrader: (4)

At my wits end. Drilled through some bar stock, bolted it to the housing and whacked on it a few times. Thing thing will not budge.