17 year old turbo pics
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
17 year old turbo pics
ok well you have all been wanting pics my turbo set up well here they are ...i did all the work my self so bare ith me lol on some of the turbo pics there is tape but just for test trials so dont mind that...
#3
TECH Addict
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NE Texas
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looks better than what I could come up with. You probably have some power trapped in your small DP is it 2 and 1/2? Also, the intake also looks really restrictive.
Looks good and when is it getting tune/running right?
Jerrad
Looks good and when is it getting tune/running right?
Jerrad
#4
TECH Regular
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: P'cola, FL / Okc, OK
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just curious but wouldn't the MAF reading be inaccurate being before the turbo and not in the actual charge piping before the TB?
Wouldn't the charge piping move with the suspension if it is suspended from the rear axle on the pass. side rear?
Also what is the device that acts as your 90deg. into the intake? Not sure of the design internally but wouldn't it slow down/decrease efficiency if it is not a smmoth curve into the intake?
Once again not critcism just honest ?'s and possible pointers!
Wouldn't the charge piping move with the suspension if it is suspended from the rear axle on the pass. side rear?
Also what is the device that acts as your 90deg. into the intake? Not sure of the design internally but wouldn't it slow down/decrease efficiency if it is not a smmoth curve into the intake?
Once again not critcism just honest ?'s and possible pointers!
#5
TECH Addict
iTrader: (34)
The maf should be up front, the bov is to atmosphere in which should recirculate in this case. Exhaust is to small IMO at a minimum and so is the cold side but could probably suffice if needed. I really don't like the intake charge 'thingy' going into the T/B either but would probably work. Once running right, you absolutely need a fuel upgrade so you might as well do it now. A racetronix kit and 42# at the bare minimum. FI is not cheap and can't skimp out on, which could cost you a nice low milleage motor. All in all, great job taking on this project at 17. Hang in there you will get it, just don't let the motor see any boost without a tune.
#7
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (3)
I have some concerns on ground clearance among other things. That maf should be in the intake pipe near the intake in normal location. I am not sure those rubber rad hoses will hold boost. I hate to say this but think I would take it off,sell what I could and then buy a used sts or save up for an actual sts kit or buy a used front mount possibly.
Without having access to mandrel bending machine and some people with serious fabrication skills its going to be hard to make a system that works well and doesn't drag on the ground and rip off the first speed bump or train track you go over.
If the used sts or used frontmount kit is still too much I would go for heads,cam ,headers or possibly nitrous route. With carefuly shopping they could be done for 1000 to 2000 especially if you shop used on the boards.And you can do heads,cam and heads as budget permits or nitrous on a stock engine with a few safeguards and upgrades..fuel pump,window switch to name two.
I think you have bit off a bit too much here. We would like you to succeed,its great to try out stuff but this is starting to remind me of some honda setups I have seen in the past.
Again please don't take this the wrong way but its hard to do a good turbo system without spending some good amounts of money.
Without having access to mandrel bending machine and some people with serious fabrication skills its going to be hard to make a system that works well and doesn't drag on the ground and rip off the first speed bump or train track you go over.
If the used sts or used frontmount kit is still too much I would go for heads,cam ,headers or possibly nitrous route. With carefuly shopping they could be done for 1000 to 2000 especially if you shop used on the boards.And you can do heads,cam and heads as budget permits or nitrous on a stock engine with a few safeguards and upgrades..fuel pump,window switch to name two.
I think you have bit off a bit too much here. We would like you to succeed,its great to try out stuff but this is starting to remind me of some honda setups I have seen in the past.
Again please don't take this the wrong way but its hard to do a good turbo system without spending some good amounts of money.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Midland, NC
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It think you need to tuck it up closer to the body, and might just be the pics but the charge pipes do look small. You can get mandel bends from summit, jegs, ect. just really plan out what you are going to need. Silicone couplers are fairly cheap on ebay just make sure they are at least 4 ply. Def get a silicone 90 to go into the intake that design is going to kill your airflow. Keep at it.
#13
11 Second Club
iTrader: (74)
I give you props for doing this at 17. I wouldn't ever have dreamed of it, and honestly didn't even know how a turbo system worked until I was about 22.
I hope you get it lined out, but more often than not a home grown turbo kit (especially rear mounts) have alot of trouble making the power they're capable of due to insufficient piping and lack of a good cool intake charge. But hey, if I doesn't work out it's a good experience and you can always sell that turbo for a good set of ported heads and a cam that will require much less time/effort to make similar power.
I hope you get it lined out, but more often than not a home grown turbo kit (especially rear mounts) have alot of trouble making the power they're capable of due to insufficient piping and lack of a good cool intake charge. But hey, if I doesn't work out it's a good experience and you can always sell that turbo for a good set of ported heads and a cam that will require much less time/effort to make similar power.
#14
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
i bet you half the people in this thread cannot even weld, let alone have the ***** to take something like this on when they were 17 years old.
I commend you on the effort, hopefully you could get some of these issues taken care of.
What i see:
Maf placement
piping size
clamp type/ connector type (may want to try bead rolling if you can)
I commend you on the effort, hopefully you could get some of these issues taken care of.
What i see:
Maf placement
piping size
clamp type/ connector type (may want to try bead rolling if you can)
#15
TECH Regular
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: GSO
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i bet you half the people in this thread cannot even weld, let alone have the ***** to take something like this on when they were 17 years old.
I commend you on the effort, hopefully you could get some of these issues taken care of.
What i see:
Maf placement
piping size
clamp type/ connector type (may want to try bead rolling if you can)
I commend you on the effort, hopefully you could get some of these issues taken care of.
What i see:
Maf placement
piping size
clamp type/ connector type (may want to try bead rolling if you can)
#16
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: ALABAMA
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok what it looks like to me in the pic's is you don't have the hot side(exhaust from the engine) even hooked up to the turbo? Hook that up and you should be good to go.
You need to move the mass air upfront closer to the throttle body. The mass air I don't think would even read correctly with that long of a wire extension(from what I hear)
Also you need to just buy a 90* coupler to put on the throttle body and do away with what you got that will probably kill your hp and boost.
So far it looks like your headed in the right direction just needs to make some changes. Also PLEASE get that thing tuned before you make ANY boost or you'll probably be looking for a new block. Atleast a base tune!!!! You also need to change injectors out and the fuel pump. On my car I have already ran out pump at only 5 p.s.i. with a 255lph walboro. So you really need one of those.
It looks like in that last pic you have the exhaust side of the turbo mounted to the panhard bar. I might be wrong on that but that is what it looks like to me.
http://www.ststurbo.com/ls1_installation_pics This is what you want it to look like!
You need to move the mass air upfront closer to the throttle body. The mass air I don't think would even read correctly with that long of a wire extension(from what I hear)
Also you need to just buy a 90* coupler to put on the throttle body and do away with what you got that will probably kill your hp and boost.
So far it looks like your headed in the right direction just needs to make some changes. Also PLEASE get that thing tuned before you make ANY boost or you'll probably be looking for a new block. Atleast a base tune!!!! You also need to change injectors out and the fuel pump. On my car I have already ran out pump at only 5 p.s.i. with a 255lph walboro. So you really need one of those.
It looks like in that last pic you have the exhaust side of the turbo mounted to the panhard bar. I might be wrong on that but that is what it looks like to me.
http://www.ststurbo.com/ls1_installation_pics This is what you want it to look like!
#17
Sean
#20
The reason you're getting all this constructive criticism is because we've all learned from our (many) mistakes and don't want to see you fall into some obvious holes.
My hat's off to you for even trying a project like this - don't give up, you just need to chip away at each problem as it comes. That's what pioneers do...
Jim
My hat's off to you for even trying a project like this - don't give up, you just need to chip away at each problem as it comes. That's what pioneers do...
Jim