1badzee

iTrader: (12)

I hate this. My car FINALLY, after a year of running like ****, started running kickass three weeks ago, up until today. It's running rich again and I don't know what to do ]=

I've changed all sorts of sensors, this and that, etc etc. I don't know what it can be. Anyone have any ideas? O2's are only a month old, plugs are a month old, MAP sensor is 2 weeks old, etc etc. Someone please help me find out this shiz \= I REALLY WANT TO STALL THIS BITCH ALREADY, and I can't because of unexpected **** like this. lol. Sorry for the tantrum but I needed to vent.

HELP

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

please help!

halucinator

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like you have a shitty tune. If your running rich, the only thing that would really cause that would be TOO MUCH FUEL. Not unless your ignition system is **** or you have a clogged intake.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

Depends on where it is. At WOT or at cold startup, yes it would be in the tune. If it's at idle/part throttle when warm, then it isn't tuning.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

It's when warm mainly.. The tune is fine.. i had it for a couple of months with no issues.. doubt it all of a sudden it'll go bad.. its while casually driving. its the same feeling i had before when my fuel pump went out because of it shorting out.. but the pump is now 2 weeks old.. it makes a whiny sound though (and when the car was running great, it wasnt there).. so maybe something with the fuel pump again? \=

sbcgenII

iTrader: (1)

Maybe a vacum leak grab a piece of hose and listen around the all the hoses and connections, or you could use propane or any other fuel and see what happens when you spray it around the engine.

1997 Z71

iTrader: (1)

Did you say that you Fuel Pump is only 2 weeks old?

lt170chevelle

iTrader: (2)

yeah my car ran fine but really shitty power for a while and it ended up being one of those shitty plastic fuel lines being kinked,supply line, and that was after a fuel pump swap. just an idea

lt170chevelle

iTrader: (2)

also might wanna check your MAF,if applicable,clean it with some carb cleaner, and check your plugs for correct gap and wires,those burn spots are hard to see some times

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

im gonna take a look at them (fuel lines).. the ones in the engine bay right?

Z48LT-1

I have a great deal of practical ignorance on this subject, so I feel no hesitation to suggest you look into datalogging your sensor readings. I've missed whether you're pre-'96, which would allow you to go tunercat, or post-'95, which would... well, sorry, I don't know. Unless you've got a distinct ailment that the gurus here can recognize, I fear you'll be buying new sensors until you accidentally get it right.

Cheers -- Gary

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

93 here

Z48LT-1

Okay, so you won't be able to tune it yourself (needs a chip burned...) but the principle is valid, imo. If something's wrong, the built-in sensors should point the way. Talk to Madz28 and get his advice.

Best -- Gary

wannabess

Already told you on the other forum, you need to pull the plugs and feel the wires out for a burned wire. You said you were going to listen this time instead of doing it your own way and replacing EVERY part, and still not fixing the problem. If you dont do anything I say, atleast remember this, start with the cheapest thing to do first.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

I am doingthat first thing on monday.. im justposting to get different ideas but thats the first thing im doing

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

I found the EVAP solenoid line connector (that connects the valve/solenoid line to the throttle body) is loose/worn.. could that affect anything? I'm going to replace the connector and clamp it tight when my mom gets home because i dont wanna drive my car to the parts store at the moment.. what do you guys think about this EVAP thing?

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

replaced the thing and nothing really changed.. heres whats going on with my car...

I start car when its completely cold, and when it reaches between 160 and 180 (maybe 170? lol) i'm guessing that's when the transition happens from open loop to closed loop (when the o2s warm up and start sending readings) and while driving through this "stage", the car sputters, and backfires/sucks air in intake/exhaust (not sure, but the *thud/* sound is coming from the engine bay area) and accelerating is not an option, and this lasts for a minute or two until temp reaches 180 and car is warmed up.. then if i shut the car off and turn it back on, it's all good. so next, at idle, it'll sometimes idle very high, and then drop back to normal, and then back up again, and so on and so forth. Then car (while driving) smells like gas, everywhere.. and sometimes feels like a "miss", same kind of "miss" i had when the injectors were bad (which i replaced). So im guessing it's fuel related, but i could be wrong. I checked the plugs and wires (and everything seems fine).. so maybe ill check the fuel pressure via the schrader valve.. if that seems okay, then im stumped, and i already spoke to richie at jr services and im taking my car there wednesday so he can take a look at it. so list time..

-Sputters/sounds like air is sucked in headers (when car is warming up - and always happens around the same temperature).
-Idles high
-Smells rich/sort of vibrates under load (but not to the point where it's extremely noticable - to me it is because i drive this car daily so i can tell the difference)

I've heard things from opti (cap and rotor were changed but opti may still be fucked), IAC, TPS (which was tested good), etc. I'm just going to have a professional take a look at it and charge me whatever needs to be charged and go from there. I promised myself lately that im not gonna go buying and throwing parts at the car looking for the solution, and i am keeping that promise. Just gonna have it fully diagnosed so i know what it is, or have a better understanding. AMEN!

List of things that were replaced:

-Cap and rotor
-o2's
-MAP sensor
-IAT sensor
-Coolant temp sensor (water pump housing one and the one on the head)
-Injectors
-fuel pump
-fuel filter
-plugs

(All of these were changed ranging from three months ago, to 2 weeks ago, and car ran great after replacing all of these for about a month or so up until this past saturday- biggest help was the injectors, pump, cap+rotor, and o2s).

wannabess

Glad you got the plugs checked out, still sounds like an ignition problem though. Test the fuel pressure first, then swap coils with someone, and an icm. I'm guessing it's the opti, but try swapping known good parts first.

Blackbirdws6

iTrader: (7)

Just another thought to drive you nuts, check into the ICM or try the spacer mod. All you really got to do is put a maybe 3 or 4 washers in between the ICM and the front of the head. I was having similar issues when the car would warm up and replacing that fixed my problem. It was tricky though so don't just go replacing it since it's not that cheap. Try to find someone else with a good stocker and try it.

-brian

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

It does seem like an ignition problem, which could cause my car to run rich. I have my stock coil so ill give that a shot (i now have the blaster coil on - but the problem was still there with the stock coil), so maybe i'll use someone's ICM. That sounds about right. I re-scheduled for me to drop off the car at the shop for next monday, so i can do these free/cheap things first to see if i get anywhere. if not, off to the shop she goes. worst comes to worst he says its the opti.. no biggie. ill change that out in a couple of weeks during my break. ill keep you guys updated.. and ricci thanks for the recommendation to check plugs.. i found that oil saturated one of them \= lol.. maybe i sort of lied when i said its all good? what does that sound like to ya, valve stem seals?