SlowZ28/SS

iTrader: (14)

I'm helping my brother spec out his engine and I was wondering what you guys that. He just got his rotating assembly today and it consists for a 4340 eagle 3.75 stoker crank, 6" h-beam eagle rods, and a set of flat top pistons....forget the brand on them...but anyways. His heads have a stage 1 port job with the intake matching. He's wanting to run a solid roller cam and not a hydraulic. What size are you guys running and still driving on the street? What kinda numbers are you putting down and if you have any vids of solid roller cars that would be sweet also...thanks fellas.

SlowZ28/SS

iTrader: (14)

I guess knowbody runs cams anymore.....overrated. lol

blackz6sp

iTrader: (11)

Doesn't make sence to run a solid roller with a stage 1 ported head.

SlowZ28/SS

iTrader: (14)

Well its a good thing i didnt asked if it made sense or not. I dont believe that was in there. I just asked for some people to post what they were running, how they work, power numbers...ect.... I doubt he will keep the heads on there very long but wants to get it running before summer gets here.

97badass

iTrader: (8)

did you try a search? read the sticky? try replying to peoples comments nicely and the rest of us might be willing to help you and your brother.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Frankly it is your attitude that will stop the knowledgable guys from helping you. That and the train wreck that is the combo you have sofar. Haven't gotten anything else right, why would we believe you actually want the right cam or would believe us if we recommended one.?

97badass

iTrader: (8)

i finally agree with you 96capricemgr

but to the op... a solid roller is a waste of your brother money that can go else where.

you will be wearing out more parts...faster

you will break more things

i dont think there is any gain over solid roller ove hydro. roller

you wont be making enough power to need it

and you have to adjust/check on your internals more often

and like i said earlier...a waste of money.

and that sounds like an ebay rotating assembly...make sure you get it all balanced...

but if your dead set on going full roller... then have at it...

as for the cam...i might recommend the gm847 for your app.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

What I find amazing is how guys are convinced that Eagle is great when it is cheap chinese junk and you can have a Compstar package at just about the same price by the time you rebalance the bad balance on the Eagle crap and endup with a far better assembly. Yes it is imported forgings but the rods and crank are machined by Callies and the pistons Mahle.

Another big mistake I see here is what seems to be the assumption that displacement makes power, it DOES NOT, airflow makes power and if the topend is not up to the task of supplying the bottomened it wont make power. There are guys out there with strokers making bolton power because of this. It is BETTER to do good work on stock heads and leave the shortblock stock than it is to do a shortblock and leave the heads near stock.

The stock heads can make power if the cam is wild enough, look at the Stock Eliminator cars, but they have some wild cams and rev pretty high, higher than our pcm can handle.Cheaper, easier and more drivable/durable to make power with good heads than using all cam.

SlowZ28/SS

iTrader: (14)

Ok guys....i didnt mean to come off like a smart ***. That was not my intention. I was just trying to find out some info thats all. I also dont believe that eagle is junk and i assure you its no EBAY stuff and the kit is already balanced as well. I've had nothing but success with eagle to this point. I have eagle components in the truck below that runs 10's on motor not including the jug. I'm just kinda new at doing lt1 and ls1 engines and would appreciate some good advice. For what i've recieved so far, thanks a lot.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Get all the Eagle stuff checked dimensional issues are fairly common and if they balanced it it NEEDS to be rebalanced. Rarely outright fails but is not as good as Compstar for similar cost.

Heads are going to kill this project, trust me, my stock shortblock car has left more than one stroker owner making excuses.

Going to want to keep the duration fairly low which may complicate solid roller lobe selection as most will be higher duration. I would say keep it under 240 at .050 on the intake. Don't think you are going to find much off the shelf, start looking online at manufactuers lobe catalogues. The talk to them about whether what you are looking at will survive on the street if you intend to have this be driven.

SlowZ28/SS

iTrader: (14)

Thanks....thats some good info. I think he's only wanting this car to be a weekend warrior though. He has a jeep that keeps him occupied as well in the mud. lol. I'll pass this info on to him though and see what he thinks. Thanks 96capricemgr.

seawalkersee

Um...why is he wanting to even run a solid lifter cam? Not trying to be smart here, but do you know what goes with that (power, part, and maint. wise)? What they have told you is 100% true. Look at what other people are running as far as combo's and see how well some of the stock cube guys are doing with hydraulic cams. Remember an engine is an air pump and if it cant get the air in and out, it will not run like you want it to. Next, huge cubes make a ton of power........so long as they can breathe. If he wants to treat it like a diesel, I guess he could get some .600 plus lift cam with 0 overlap and a small LSA and rap that baby all the way up to 2500 rpms to take advantage of his mismatched parts. Ask around, you may be surprised who will chime in...

Chris