Drag Racing Tech - New TRZ ARB Install (w/ pics)

I installed the new TRZ motorsports anti-roll bars on my 02 TA today. Thought I'd share my experiences...

The install went smoothly, with a few very minor exceptions. The piece didn't come with any written directions, but Mark at TRZ gave me a walkthrough. Honestly, it isn't rocket science... if you have major issues installing it, you probably shouldn't be working on your own car. I generally followed Mark's directions, making a few exceptions.

The install starts with the removal of the panhard bar and the upper panhard support. I took an angle grinder and removed ~ 1/8" of excess material from the frame rail so that the ARB mounts even with the rail. (Note: I always make it a habit to paint any freshly exposed metal.)

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l291/drakeclark/Turbo%20Trans%20Am/TRZ%20ARB/P3210016.jpg

Next, I drilled the driver's side panhard bar bracket (on the rear end) to 5/8 (I believe) and installed the panhard bar. No issues, except that the bolt was a bit too short to contact the nylon locking area on the lock nut (as you can see here):

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l291/drakeclark/Turbo%20Trans%20Am/TRZ%20ARB/P3210019.jpg

On a stock rear end this may not be an issue. This is a Strange Dana 60, the brackets may be thicker than stock. I just used a little red loctite and moved on.

I was told to drill out both passenger side holes just a bit, but found that unnecessary. I slid the bottom bolt through the passenger side bracket (the one that also mounts the panhard bar), and after seeing how close the bolts were to going through, I just took a rat tail file and took a little off of the topmost hole (toward the front of the car). After just a few hits with the old rat, the bolt slid through without an issue.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l291/drakeclark/Turbo%20Trans%20Am/TRZ%20ARB/P3210017.jpg

Tighten everything up and you're set. Center the rear end just as you would with any other panhard setup. Tighten it all down and you're ready for the last step - the roll bar.

First, get the rear end to ride-height (jack stands under the axles work - not shown in the pictures below). The ARB will just be hanging at this point.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l291/drakeclark/Turbo%20Trans%20Am/TRZ%20ARB/P3210015.jpg

Prep the metal on the axle tubes around the general area where you'll be welding on the brackets. Position the ARB linkages and weld-on brackets, such that the ARB "arms" are ~ 10 degrees down at ride height.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l291/drakeclark/Turbo%20Trans%20Am/TRZ%20ARB/P3210025.jpg

Lightly tack the brackets onto the axle tubes, making sure everything is square. Disconnect the ARB linkages and let them hang out of the way, to keep them from getting cooked. (Note: welding the brackets would be much easier if the gas tank is removed.) I used my TIG to weld them in with my custom tank installed in the car... no biggie, just keep your auto-darkening sensors from falling into shadows while you work, or you'll see spots for a bit. :bang: Give everything that needs it a good shot of primer and paint, hook it up and tighten it down, then kick your feet up and congratulate yourself on being the master of all things automotive. :chug:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l291/drakeclark/Turbo%20Trans%20Am/TRZ%20ARB/P3210024.jpg

All in all, the most annoying thing with this install was having to go out to buy a 5/8 inch drill bit for the panhard rear-end bracket. :eyes: The product seems to be quality, but only time (and a running car) will tell. My only concern is the panhard bar, which doesn't seem as substantial as the UMI single-adjustable I bought and installed but never used. I'll post another review when I get to do some testing.

Nice write up. I have one of these sitting in my room waiting for spring to come around.

Looks like it worked well enough. As Top Fuel said, nice write up!

BTW, looks like TRZ had to notch the rear as well:

http://www.trzmotorsports.com/images/gm/34f/34f1.jpg

Please post up some results, i have been looking at getting this setup

Looks like it worked well enough. As Top Fuel said, nice write up!

BTW, looks like TRZ had to notch the rear as well:


I'm confused, what are you looking at exactly? I don't see anything notched in the picture. My Dana 60 has a girdle on it everything cleared. I had to shave off the posts to clear the UMI panhard bar, and even then I was pretty sure it was going to contact. Now clearance isn't an issue at all.

As I said, my only issue at this point is the panhard bar. I'd probably have used some thicker walled 4130, but that's just the opinion of a novice.

Please post up some results, i have been looking at getting this setup

Will do, as soon as she's running.

I'm confused, what are you looking at exactly? I don't see anything notched in the picture.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/Duffster-01Z/34f1.jpg

Oh, you mean on the frame rail... I thought you were talking about the rear end.

Almost all of that is already gone on account of the stock upper panhard support. GM just left a little material sticking down when they cut and pressed the rail (which didn't touch the stock support). You don't remove all of that, just ~ 1/8" (if that) from the bottom of the cut-out you see in that picture. Once that 1/8" is gone, the TRZ bar will mount flush to the frame rail.

sweet, now I really want one!

Yes you have to grind a little metal away on the side where the support bolts to the car. The pics on TRZ's website are from our 95 Firebird with 4" Mufflex exhaust.

Keep in mine the adjustment is backwards from a normal ARB setup that goes above the rear end. If the car launches to the left, you would need to shorten the link on that side to pre-load that side more. This setup has been 4.88 in the 1/8th already, better numbers soon to come ;)

Most aftermarket rear ends use slightly thicker brackets in some areas. spend .99 cents and get a 1/2" longer bolt LOL.

Looks nice, as far as the panhard rod it looks like 1" .156 wall tubing, I could be wrong about the size, but it is strong enough for a panhard rod, it's the same thing they use for the standard 4 link bars and panhard rods on tubbed cars.

Update on the PHB:

I spoke with TRZ about my concerns... a short time later a new PHB showed up at my door. This will be the new standard for their PHB:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l291/drakeclark/Turbo%20Trans%20Am/TRZ%20ARB/P1010042.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l291/drakeclark/Turbo%20Trans%20Am/TRZ%20ARB/P1010041.jpg

This new one is much stronger.

Once again, I'm very impressed by their response to my concern. They seem very easy to deal with. I'll update as soon as I'm able to road test.

Drake, thanks and keep us posted.

Ragen, longer bolts are now what we use in all the kits.

Kevin, hopefully we can get some better times than that soon and I just made 2 new larger PHB's that I'll send your way for both those cars.

Thanks.

WOW way to step up and hook the guy up with that nice PHB, now that's customer service. Have to say it is one top notch kit for people looking for a bolt on kit.

Too bad it won't fit my 4 link tube frame back half lol.

Drake, like I mentioned, that panhard rod has been 4.88 and not shown a problem yet, but TRZ has taken care of peoples worries with the larger bar. Even still, the complete unit is lighter than the stock stuff that is removed :)

TRZ, cool! Are they coming with my latest order?

Kevin, no sorry. Made em... but just going to powdercoat today. I should have them back Monday next week. If you need one ASAP I could get you one shipped out today w/out powdercoat. Call me if thats the case.

TTT

hows running these on the street?

The guy who did the initial fit on his 95 Formula drives it on the street all the time is a buddy of mine. No problems from what I've heard in the 2+ years....

Derek

some more info on these
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/981084-driving-trz-spooled-s60.html

Nice looking install.