1320_PERFORMANCE

Wassup guys im the same guy that put out the piston slap thread. This morning I brought car in thought they was gonna changed lifters but then my servive writer calls me and says there gonna rent me a loaner cause i gotta bring car back on monday, there gonna do a complete tear down on my motor (there gonna pull it out) cause they dint wanna waist there time changing the lifters and theres still gonna be piston slap.I spoke with the technician thats working on my car and said that his gonna try and warranty to get me a new motor.
I also ask him, since the motor is out if he could throw in a cam for me, and he said it shouldnt be a problem, so now my question is wat kind of cam guys??? i dunno jack bout cams, mods below. pls let me noe on wat kinda a cam and where to get them asap!!. thanks in advanced

FinalTA

iTrader: (1)

English is your friend

Chris99WS6PWTMET

There are TONS of cam threads in the archives. Do a search for more info. Many of the sponsors offer a variety of cams too. First you need to decide where you are going with the car. I like my Thunder Racing 224-114. It is very streetable in my A4 and runs consistent low 12.0's/11.90's.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

As the others said but I'll list a two of my favorite cams.

TR220

TR224

224/224 XE-R cam, I have this cam and am very happy with it.

will also need springs and a few other items etc.

SSG-Z28

FinalTA, maybe it's his SECOND language. I bet you never thought about that, huh??

Just email any of the vendors to the right, and explain your situation, and they will help you find the cam that's right for you!

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

I would recomend a 224. Dosent matter who it comes from, becasue theyre all about the same, just different amounts of lift. Its basicly the best all around cam. Not aggressive to the point where it wont be your daily driver anymore, and you can still hit over 400hp at the wheels.
BTW-while its already opened and the labor is free, see if they will let you throw in a set of forged pistons and rods

mobius

LOL

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Which dealer? May need to talk witht them about my friends car with same problem.

TIA.

Diesel

LOL Hey! Stop baggin on the Hawaii guy! :p

1320_PERFORMANCE

99-224/224-112 or 99-224/224-114 which would be better for my m6 and do i need tuning after cam is put in?

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

With an M6 car you could pick either one. You wouldnt need tunning as bad as if you went with the 114, but your gona need it though. The 112 is more for an M6 because with it being on a 112 vs a 114 it brings your shift point down by a couple of RPM.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

So, which dealer you going to?

Either cam, like stang killer said. Most M6 will go w/ shorter lsa, and still have less tuning issues.

1320_PERFORMANCE

Thanks for the advise stang killer, I guess ill go with the 99-224/224-112. wat about valve springs and retainers? do i have to buy them too? i just read about this cam>99-230/224-111 made more horses than 99-224/224-112 same price too. Can i go with that? need ur opinion asap. thanks

cat3 im going to jim falk motors of maui.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

go with the TR224/224 on the 112LSA.....its a really nice cam and it will actually run quite nice without tuning (still should get LS1Edit and tune it when you get the money)...

I just installed a TR230/224 cam in a guys car and it REALLY needed to be tuned....its not worth the trouble for the little bit more power....

Since the dealership is installing your stuff, you will need to use a valve spring that will fit in the factory poket on the head......918s seem to work well but if you have the money, go with the REV duel springs....they will be a little stiffer and thus provide better protection from valve float...

also have them swap out the crapy factory timing chain since it will be out anyways....get the rollermaster double from SDPC2000.com....$85 and its almost indestrictable.....

you probubly don't "HAVE" to change the oil pump but I'll mention it while I'm listing.....I didn't change mine on my 01 and am still seeing good pressure (actually it pegs 60PSI and opens the bypass before 3000RPM).....

summary:

- TR224/224 on a 112LSA (thunder racing)
- Rollermaster double roller timing chain (SDPC2000.com)
- 7.400" chrome moly pushrods (thunder racing)
- REV duel valve springs (MMSRACING.com)
- ported LS6 oil pump (thunder racing)

now...up front I'll say this is probubly going to cost you a ~$1,000 for all these parts....perhaps a little more....but seriously...this is something you only want to do ONCE so build it right the first time! If you do all those parts, you should never have to replace anything again....

1320_PERFORMANCE

thanks chris ill probly do the cam and timing chain for now and ill do the push rods and valve springs my self when i have more $$$.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

DO NOT WAIT TOO LONGand DO NOT REV it without the sorings in and the PR's to handle it, they will bind and break, and bend the rods. Yep the 230can make more power, but without heads....the smaller the better. You can only get so much in and even less out on stock heads, and I think as of now, thats what is really killing my 224 cam install.

Good luck.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

I wouldn't take it very high in RPM at all until those springs are changed.....the outcome could make you VERY unhappy...


If your short on cash, see if you can get any 941 or 918s used from someone for $100 or so and use your factory retainers that way you won't be as likely to float a valve

1320_PERFORMANCE

thanks for the advise guys, chris sent u a pm

1320_PERFORMANCE

Wat about if i jus get ls1cam package from thunder racing?comes with Thunder Racing Custom Grind Camshaft,Comp Cams 26918 Valve Springs, Thunder Racing Stock Length Pushrods (7.400),Cam Swap Gasket Kit all for $699.99 will i be set for my cam swap. anything i missed, pls reply asap.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

only other thing you would need with the TR pachage is the Rollermaster timing chain from SDPC.....otherwise that package would set you up really well....