98trans-am

iTrader: (4)

had my lc1 for 4 months now and has never worked right. well ill reset it and it will only hold calibration for like two key cycles. i found this thread on innovates forum. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...56&postcount=7 well i think this might be my problem its seing to large a voltage drop when cranking therefore acting like im pushing the reset button. well just so you know i do not have my led and button hooked up in the car.
well as for the wiring my 12v source is coming from my windshield wipers, i decided on that after doing an aem wideband install on my buddies car. and his aem works great. i dont have my dmm at home so im gonna have to check tommorow at work for vd during cranking. as far as grounds go i went from all grounds on same lug on chassis, to all lugs within 2 inches on chassis, and after that didnt work i decided to ground them on driver side head like everyone else. wideband still didnt read right so i thought maybe it could be the sensor so i bought a new one and still nothing. guage just sweep around like crazy. where else can i get a good power source from? or is there an update on the lc1 its self i dont know about? i dont want to bad mouth the product seing that a lot of you have had good succes with it. so im leaning towards an installment error on my part. please help.

98trans-am

iTrader: (4)

no one else has an lc1 on theyre car?

robertearl

I used the 12v heater source for the O2 sensor I replaced. At least on a Corvette, it is a direct source from the battery. Grounds on the LC1 are very important. Hook them all together and tie it to a good chassis ground.

Reb

16floz470ml

iTrader: (2)

I would suggest that you hook up your led. You really need it for trouble shooting as it flashes the code of what is wrong out for you. I have problems with my lc1 too. Usually on startup. I just have to turn the car off and then start it up again and it works fine.

spectreWV

iTrader: (1)

I ran a relay from the positive terminal of my battery for my 12V source...I'd recommend doing that. For grounding I ran an 8 gauge wire to a bolt on the bottom of my engine block to one of these with this to jumper all the points. Then I soldered a terminal end onto each ground wire and connected it to a seperate point on the barrier strip. My ground offset was zero. On my pillar pod I drilled a hole to mount my calibration button and LED by my DB gauge...here's a pic: . I had to do a heater recalibration after it was all hooked up..then a free air calibration. It was a headache, but seems to be working right now.

98trans-am

iTrader: (4)

hey spectre wv, im a little bit confused. im not sure i understand what you mean about the relay. so you just connect one wire to the relay from the postive battery terminal? isnt the power supposed to be ignition switched?
could you elaborate on this please.wow i also never thought about the barrier strips and jumpers, i might try that one out.

spectreWV

iTrader: (1)

The purpose of a relay is basically to control a high power source (car battery) with a low power source (a switched 12V source aka your windshield wiper power wire). Think of a relay as having 2 separate circuits inside of it. One circuit connects to an ignition switched 12-V source and ground. The other circuit is the high power circuit that connects to whatever you want to have high consistent power. The ignition switched 12-V source (circuit #1) turns the high power circuit (#2) on (or off). The high power circuit gets it's power from the car battery in my case. This can get confusing using the word "switched" because the high power circuit is in itself, a switch. Here's a good place to read up and they offer a better explanation than I can.