Storms of War

Is there a way to give my steering wheel the Vette/ Viper feel (without having to buy a Vette or a Viper)? I drove my dad's 06 SRT10 coupe this weekend and you can't move that steering wheel a millimeter without it responding. There is absolutely no play whatsoever. Now, I know I'm comparing my 95 LT1 to a relatively new $100k car, but is there any way to give my car a similar feeling? When I touch my steering wheel, I want my car to move.

Thanks, and sorry if this sounds stupid.

JD_AMG

You obviously can't get the same exact feel seeing the suspension for both cars is different, but you can get close, and definitly improve your steering.
A larger front swaybar, like the 35mm front from stranoparts.com will make the front(and only the front) much more responsive.
I would suggest matching with the rear 22mm bar as well though to balance the car out, otherwise it will feel like the rear end is just trailing the front(best way I can describe it).
Now if you want a single all out suspension mod to dramatically improve handling(more so than the sway bars) and your ride quality look into some Koni SA's (again stranoparts.com). Your car will behave and ride more like a BMW.

Storms of War

I definitely need to upgrade my sway bars. That much I know. I was thinking of going with this set up though as it fits my budget a little better-

http://www.spohn.net/?action=product&pid=1063

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Less caster and less (zero or slightly positive toe-out) will make it
more responsive. But with fat tires the car tends to respond to road
input a lot.

A performance alignment (check what the road racing guys run)
will definitely change it for the better. I used trackbird's specs some
years back, do not remember them now.

Bow94z

iTrader: (3)

Sway bars, and since you have a LT1, your rag joint could be worn too..check this out
http://home.comcast.net/~nstama/ragjoint.htm

I put one on mine and the steering responded a bit better

CranMaro99

iTrader: (10)

Ewwwwww.

JD_AMG

32mm front is stock on SS and WS.6 cars, I wouldn't waste your time on that. You'd be saving about $100 over stranos bars, which are much lighter, and a proven combination(Sam has them on his multiple event winning car, made them specifically for good balance and low weight). The set you posted above may make the car more tail happy if anything.

EDIT: haha, the link didn't work until now so I assumed you posted the link to their 32/22mm swaybar set.

The QA1s you posted are drag shocks and will make the car floaty/disconnected, the exact opposite of what you want. I've been in a QA1 car before and it gets scary above 80mph its so floaty... Like an old Buick.
And those are only like $70 cheaper than Koni 4/3's...
Heres someone that went from QA1s to Konis:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....5&postcount=26

Storms of War

Wow, thanks guys! I really appreciate it. I'm going to be spending more now, but you get what you pay for and my car is definitely worth spending a little more on.

cookba

iTrader: (10)

This was a good read. I finally after a year and half bought the Strano setup (Koni 4/4 strano springs and sway bar kit). I cant wait for how much more responsive the car will feel. I still need to read up to make sure i get the right alignment for me but i cant wait.

kny3twalker

iTrader: (31)

these are trackbird's specs from doing a search

-1.3 camber
4.5 castor
1/32nd inch toe out (yes, out)

I think though toe in would be better, if you are more worried about the car not wandering

Shock Hawk

I think what he means by responsiveness is sensitivity. He wants something that if you can turn it 1 millimeter, you can feel it turn. I know that old cars are sloppy (some have 2 inches of play), but to get that kind of responsiveness, you'd be looking at your steering column, steering box, and steering pump.

I don't know enough about steering mechanisms to tell you what to do, but I'll tell you this: Anywhere there's a joint (column tilting mechanism, or a U-joint), there will probably be play. That's one obvious mechanical problem. Another is the play in the gears of the steering box. They might be loose or have play. That's the other one that might be obvious. If you come to the conclusion that you want to change steering boxes, go to a quicker steering ratio so that it's less turns from lock to lock so that 1 millimeter turns more.