Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Was out running the car this weekend. Lc-1 been on for a about a week and working good.

Saterday morning I got in the car and it started. Needle going from rich to lean back to rich. Does this every power up. Then after the "warm up" period. It justs pegs lean (18). While drivin once and awhile it would act like it was going to do the "power on" sweep and just hits 18 again and stays there.

What could have possibly just up and went wrong?? Everything is brand new. So im not buying anything to try and fix it. It should just work.

Thanks for your help guys. Feel like i should have listened to everyone.

If it comes down to it I am going to try and get innovate to trade me all up and pay the difference for a Lm-1

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

I'd get away from Innovate period.
I had an LM-1 for 6 months, used it maybe four time on two vehicles, had to send it in three times to get it repaired.
The guys were real dicks about it saying they weren't going to repair it under warranty if they find out it's something I'm doing wrong. Well they fixed it for free all three times so apparently it was their product, not me.
I practically gave the thing away on ebay.

maxgee

iTrader: (5)

I need to get a wideband to complete tuning on my turbo set up. I am leaning towards PLX, wondering what experience good or bad you have had with your widebands.

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

That sounds about right for the life of a innovate product.....one week.

turbo'd stang

We have an older box that has worked great....I bought a new one and it is total junk. It doesn't work anymore. AEM makes a nice one that is gauge style. It warms up fast and seems to last.

badpewter-z

iTrader: (4)

this is the reason im running a dynojet now

the lc-1 is very sensitive to ground and the heater circuit isnt the greatest from what ive seen . longest i ever got my lc1 to work was 6-7 months.

its probbly the sensor going bad from a poor heater circuit. the cold weather didnt help mine at all

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

I just installed one in a 03 Cobra, and the longest it's worked is a few hours of driving. We had it working the first night, drove the car around the block, came home and then left to go out - while we were out it lost calibration. Now, if you do a free air calibration, it will work again. But were working on a slammed Cobra and its not easy to get under the car. Not to mention we have done it 3 times now, and its only worked for a few hours each time.

Innovates response - take it all out and send it back for them to test. Maybe they dont realize how hard it is to hide all the wires and get a clean install. Not to mention all the wires are soldered and not easily removed.

Innovates directions say to use a switched 12v power source - which seems like its right...but what we think is causing the problem is the small power interruption the sensor gets when the key is turned from 'on' to 'run.' Thats all we can think of. The ground is good, and everything is done according to the directions - but it still wont work.

I myself will be purchasing a PLX or AEM wideband when I get a chance. Im not going to bother with the LC-1.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

In my instructions it said to disconnect the power supply while starting the vehicle then plug it in immediately after it's running.
I always did that.

But think about it, I have had cell phones, gps units, all kinds of stuff plugged into the same place and never had one fail because of that. Makes me think they know thier stuff is ****, or they're leaving something out to prevent voltage spikes.

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

disconnect the power everytime you start the vehicle? Thats ******* retarded. What about people who solder the connections?

edit: im not saying youre retarded.lol. im talking about innovate

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

The instructions I read for a permanent installation said to wire it to a relay that would kill power while cranking.

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

and alot of people on the innovate forums think that power interruption messes it up ...confusing, right?

maxgee

iTrader: (5)

Well after reading the issues here, I will get the PLX or AEM unit...Vendor here has a good deal now for the PLXk so I'm leaning towards them.

Doc

iTrader: (9)

Been running the same LC-1 for 4 years now, no problems.

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

alot of people I have seen run them fine, without issues. but ive recently been seeing alot of people having this same issue.. im going PLX or AEM though..

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Go to Inovates forum, you're wrong and you screwed it up no matter what. I'm betting you could video the whole thing following the instructions exactly and they will all still jump you and say you did something wrong.
IMO and in my experience, their product sucks, their customer service sucks, and their forum and members of their forum suck.
Sometimes even though the truth hurts, it may save someone some money and hassle down the road.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

yup.... gunna send it all in... get it back, and sell it.

But i really want something standalone like the Lm1 (or the new lm2").

But their customer service is horrible. Anyone else on the market have a affordable unit like the lm's???

robertearl

The LC-1 works fine but it is HORRIBLY sensitive to a bad ground. Take all of the grounds off of the LC-1 and bring them to one lug. Ground this straight to the frame. Run the switched 12v off of the 12 volt for the O2 sensor heater wire you are replacing.

Check their web site and get the latest firmware for the LC-1. Flash your LC-1 with it. I could not flash it with a laptop as the USB to serial interface did not provide enough voltage to the LC-1. I had to bring out my home desktop pc to the car and do it with that.

After this, unplug the LC-1 O2 sensor and turn the power on for 10 seconds. Turn it off and reconnect the LC-1 O2 sensor. You will be doing a new free air calibration so be sure the car has been turned off for 8 hours or else unscrew the O2 sensor and let it hang free during the calibration.

I run mine with the narrow band simulation wired back into the engine PCM so that I do not need another bung welded onto the exhaust.

I had problems when I first got it also, even replaced the O2 sensor ( get it cheap and with a lifetime warranty from Oreillys. $55 ) After doing the above, it works fine. I don't think I would buy another LC-1 but you already got it and it is easier to do the above than to change everything out for a different brand.

Reb

PS You did notice I said to bring ALL of the grounds to ONE lug and tie that to the frame.

PSS By the way Just in case you did not catch one about the grounds, bring ALL of the grounds to ONE lug and tie that to the frame.

PSS You get the idea that the grounds are IMPORTANT

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

I'd buy a quality brand instead.

Any ideas why my LM1 kept going out? Was I supposed to ground it in a million places too, other than the provided cig lighter plug?

You know what would also help is a possible solution to the problem Innovate fixes when you send something back for repairs. "fixed unit" doesn't really do much in the way of preventing further failure. I guess they figure their **** is garbage and something else is going to break anyway so why bother right.