2002_TAWS6

Thought this question could be stated on internal engine board as well as it would answer some of my questions on engine reliability.

Was thinking about running 8psi ATI and just wanted to know if I will HAVE TO become a part of the "engine rebuild club" later or not?

Heres the setup I was thinking about purchasing:

ATI D-1SC (or P-1SC) 8psi
145 slave cylinder
Good Clutch (havent decided yet)
NGK TR6 spark plugs
Dyno testing and tuning
Injectors will depend on (FMU setup - not decided yet either)

Car is a 2002 TA WS6 6-spd. Has nothing but an airlid, corsa exhaust, slp y-pipe, and some appearance mods.

So would this be "reliable" to my engine or not? By engine I mean EVERYTHING (springs, rods, crankshaft, you name it).

Reason for this post is because I hear a lot of people saying if I were to run boost I would definetly need to rebuild my engine in a matter of a short period of time (not more than 3 years depending on driving style) while others tend to say if it was tuned correctly there would be no problems and there should be no need to rebuild the engine and it should last as long as it came STOCK unless I go over 10# of boost.

To some of you this might sound like im asking for your prediction on this. Anyone with a 98 LS1 with a supercharger installed IN THE SAME YEAR (preferably the ATI procharger) would be of EXCELLENT help now. :bow:

I asked this same question to some s/c ls1 owners but the more response I get the better. Ill try posting in the "internal engine" board as well to get answers from both sides.

This should be a investment for no more than $5500 (hopefully). It would mean a lot to me if I can get some advice. Dont want to regret anything.

Thanks a ton for all of you who can be of assistance.

2002_TAWS6

TTT.
Come on guys give me a hand here.

TaTommyWS6

Try posting this on the FI section, you will probably get some good advice.

Tommy

AG Formula

My 99 with a ATI 8# tuner kit SC has been on for about 18 months, never had a problem. I drove it 60 miles round trip to and from work for 8 months. But if you don't get it tuned right from the start you will have problems. That means on a dyno with a WB O2, not on the street with the stock O2's. Just putting it on and thinking you know just once I will see what it feels like before I go take it to get tuned. Pop goes the motor.

Being a M6 you will need a new rear one day. You should change out your valve springs or while you are on the dyno you will see it go into valve float right after 6K if the spring are in good shape. Toss the FMU idea in the trash and use a better fuel pump, I have an inline Walbro with 42lb injectors. I thought ATI gave up on the FMU idea last year in May or so.

Keep the oil changed and change out the plugs and you should not have any problems. So far so good on my setup.

But it's all in the tuning, start looking for a shop that has done a few before and let them have at it. Ask them for a safe tune vice one that is on the edge if you are worried about how long the engine is going to live.

2002_TAWS6

thanks for the reply AG formula.
Whats a WB 02? I am trying to avoid buying the rear end by using street tires at all times and not doing some crazy launches.

Also I dont think ill ever be going over 6K rpms so the valve springs should be fine I persume?

I have this same post over other forums like www.camaroz28.com and www.ls1.com it is starting to be a little hard for me to decide because the results so far in all replies were as follows:

response 1:
eventually your going to need forged pistons and lower the static compression ratio, as 10.5:1 is too high for a blower. So be prepared for the worst.

response 2:
With proper tuning, a ProCharger will give you many years of additional power without wearing your engine out

response 3:
Moderation is a key element of longevity, supercharged or not

response 4:
I'm in over a year now with my ATI on my car, running 6-8psi depending on weather conditions. If you keep your car tuned, follow the change intervals for the plugs/fuel filter/etc, and generally respect your car for the most part, you can go years without having any problems.
Just remember, keep up on the maintenance and you'll be good to go.

response 5:
My 99 with a ATI 8# tuner kit SC has been on for about 18 months, never had a problem. I drove it 60 miles round trip to and from work for 8 months. But if you don't get it tuned right from the start you will have problems. That means on a dyno with a WB O2, not on the street with the stock O2's. Keep the oil changed and change out the plugs and you should not have any problems. So far so good on my setup. It all depends on the tuning.

response 6:
As far as supercharge'n an LS1....let me put it to you this way:.
1. you don't get stupid on your air/fuel ratio...keep it low 12s(12.5:1 is best) and you'll be fine
2. if you don't have intercoolers(or aftercooler) then keep the boost levels to 6psi or lower.
3. make sure the engine is in good tune...no hypertechs or like products and if you have the 'power programming' done, take it out.
4. Tuning tuning tuning.

Just follow the 4 items above and you should be fine. I've been fine running a 10# pulley on the bottom end. I know Robert was fine running 9# and I've seen guys run as much as 12# on their D1SCs with headers/off road ypipe/catback(seeing 9# on the boost gauge).

I put the blower on at 52K and I now have 89K on the car. Lots of races, lots of miles, quite a few highway miles and all is well.

Response 7:
I think 8# may be the limit, most people are sticking to a 7# max. A rich A/F and a close watch on fuel pressure and boost gauges would help the motor live longer.

Response 8:
The lead time on a new motor to your own specs can be 2 months.

Response 9:
2000 C5 LS1 8#, blew motor after 2 months. (This person mentioned his a/f ratio was 13.3-13.5 I assume that was the problem).

I am super confused now! I am starting to think maybe I should go with a head&cam package instead.

Help!

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

WB O2--wideband reading, reads afr (air fuel ratio) much more accurate than the stock O2s. ANY power adder likes a richer afr. On N2O, my favorite, 12.5-12.7 is good, any leaner like 13.3 and pop goes a hole in a piston. Its not just LS1's. I know your confusion, but its easier to sort out the worst and best case, and see what the average guy is saying.

Get it tuned by a reputable FI shop with experience in this area. They will keep the afr in rich zone, timing down and will coach you on all the aspects of FI world, like higher octane fuel, not revving on a cold engine, etc...many people think because it happened to him it will to me too, but you have to know all the ins and outs of their story. I agree bout !FMU, go intank or inline upgrade to cover the fuel demand.