panhard bar, adjustable or on-car adujustable?
04-04-2008, 12:10 PM
#1
panhard bar, adjustable or on-car adujustable? ok so ive been reading posts about how adjustable panhard bars are something good to look into when lowering an f body. so i looked on stranoparts.com and there is an adjustable one and an on car adjustable one. im guessing the on car one is better for only 30$ more but i want to see what you guys have to say.
04-04-2008, 01:53 PM
#4
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ok so ive been reading posts about how adjustable panhard bars are something good to look into when lowering an f body. so i looked on stranoparts.com and there is an adjustable one and an on car adjustable one. im guessing the on car one is better for only 30$ more but i want to see what you guys have to say.
On a side note we have these on sale until Monday
Here is a link to the sales page-http://www.bmrfabrication.com/taxrefundsale.htm
04-04-2008, 02:24 PM
#6
On the car adjustable just makes more sense to most because it just saves time and effort. A standard adjustable is every bit as good, and a few ounces lighter, but takes more time to get setup.
Of note, you'll notice that the UMI on the car adjustable I sell has the adjuster at the end, not in the middle of the bar making for a stronger part IMO.
Of note, you'll notice that the UMI on the car adjustable I sell has the adjuster at the end, not in the middle of the bar making for a stronger part IMO.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
04-04-2008, 04:52 PM
#7
imagine undoing one end of the panhard bar then having to pry the rear end to line it up, then jacking the rear end up, checking, and repeating over and over until you have it lined up just right.
go with on car adjustable.
go with on car adjustable.
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04-04-2008, 05:48 PM
#9
If I understand the question correctly, you are deciding on the on-the-car adjustable versus the off-the-car adjustable. If you intend on changing the geometry of the rear often, it is easier to use the on-the-car unit. If you do not intend to change often, the off-the-car is cheaper, and you only have to get it right the first time. It takes more work, as mentioned previously, but then you are set.
And Sam is correct (as always), get the unit that has the adjustment at the end. It is a stronger unit (basic physics and consideration of lever arms).
Although the question has not been asked, you might want to investigate rod-rod versus rod-poly ends. Almost all report that the rod-poly units are quieter on the street. And avoid the poly-poly units, they do not allow the articulation required for these units.
And Sam is correct (as always), get the unit that has the adjustment at the end. It is a stronger unit (basic physics and consideration of lever arms).
Although the question has not been asked, you might want to investigate rod-rod versus rod-poly ends. Almost all report that the rod-poly units are quieter on the street. And avoid the poly-poly units, they do not allow the articulation required for these units.
04-04-2008, 09:22 PM
#10
On the car adjustable just makes more sense to most because it just saves time and effort. A standard adjustable is every bit as good, and a few ounces lighter, but takes more time to get setup.
Of note, you'll notice that the UMI on the car adjustable I sell has the adjuster at the end, not in the middle of the bar making for a stronger part IMO.
Of note, you'll notice that the UMI on the car adjustable I sell has the adjuster at the end, not in the middle of the bar making for a stronger part IMO.
same with my lowering springs. well once they come in stock
04-04-2008, 09:26 PM
#11
If I understand the question correctly, you are deciding on the on-the-car adjustable versus the off-the-car adjustable. If you intend on changing the geometry of the rear often, it is easier to use the on-the-car unit. If you do not intend to change often, the off-the-car is cheaper, and you only have to get it right the first time. It takes more work, as mentioned previously, but then you are set.
And Sam is correct (as always), get the unit that has the adjustment at the end. It is a stronger unit (basic physics and consideration of lever arms).
Although the question has not been asked, you might want to investigate rod-rod versus rod-poly ends. Almost all report that the rod-poly units are quieter on the street. And avoid the poly-poly units, they do not allow the articulation required for these units.
And Sam is correct (as always), get the unit that has the adjustment at the end. It is a stronger unit (basic physics and consideration of lever arms).
Although the question has not been asked, you might want to investigate rod-rod versus rod-poly ends. Almost all report that the rod-poly units are quieter on the street. And avoid the poly-poly units, they do not allow the articulation required for these units.
04-05-2008, 10:12 AM
#12
Even though my car was not lowered, the right side was off by 13/16" compared to the driver's side. Since you have been researching, you probably already know how to measure it. It took me three adjustments to get it correct, but it has not budged since. JMO, I did a lot of research and discussion on the rod-rod combos, which is all I found for on-car adjustables, and decided the risk of noise was not worth it for my (relatively) quiet car.