MplSS

Hey all,

I'm in the process of installing dual springs, and yella terra 1.8's. The #8 rocker bolt came out hard all the way, and I had a pretty good idea of what was happening- and sure enough, aluminum shavings on the bolt, they are not completely stripped, but the bolt will not thread by hand, anb puts up pretty good resistance to a ratchet. What are my options-drill/tap, helicoil, suicide? any help would be greatly appreciated!

rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

heli coil that mother and be done with it.

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

Take a 8mm tap and chase threw the threads to cleanup, If not ,I used helicoils on mine ,They are stronger than the original threads

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Stock heads? If not, you may want to pull the intake to clean metal shavings in the intake port.

MplSS

Thanks for the input guys, I did the heli-coil, and it seems to have worked fine, I cant actually see it as its the #8 hole, and the everlovin' cowl is in the way, but from what I can tell using a slightly longer bolt (50mm) threaded all the way to the bottom, I will have 8 or 9 threads engaged after torquing. I hope that is enough, but I figure the stainless threads are that much stronger than the original Al. threads. Keeping My fingers crossed.

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

You can stack the helicoils if need to to add threads, but before you brake off the tab, But if you need or want to add a coil you can remove the old coil by pulling out the first ring and twist it out

MplSS

I thought about trying that, but the first heli-coil is 3/8" deep in the hole, so my only choice would be stacking, my concern is two-fold, what if the heli-coil threads dont exactly line up, and secondly, what happens if the break-off tab on the second coil wont break or gets stuck in the lower threads? I guess I should take a poll-stay with one heli-coil deep in the hole and accepting the bolt, or gamble and try to stack-do I really need more than 9 stainless threads to keep a rocker arm located? Anyone? Bueller? seriously though thanks for the responses, yesterday at this time I was feeling pretty depressed and alone, but I think I can now see some daylight!

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

I work in fab shop and installed a lot of helicoils, and double and triplied stacked them and never had a misalignment , They are made to stack

MplSS

Good to know, I guess I'll try it.

MplSS

Randy ws6-You are a genius, and a lifesaver!!! I tried your suggestion and it worked to perfection! I now have 26 mm of stainless threads, and the bolt threads in without a hitch-I would NEVER have tried this without Your advice, I cannot thank you enough. Next time Im in Ky, Ill look You up with a handshake , a case of beer, and a grin from ear to ear! Thanks again!!!

Todd

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

Glad to help. It good to make a new friend .

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

That # 8 was hard to get to I bet. How did you drill it out so the helicoil would fit?

I am glad it worked.

Bill

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

With my experience with the LS1 heads ,when the original threads are pulled ,the hole that it leaves is perfect for the helicoil tap, I put grease on the tap to catch the cutling that caused by the tap.

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

That is good to know but I hope I never have that problem.

Bill

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Good hint about the grease. Helps catch that crap before it falls in the motor. Works well. Helicoil = Win!

socmguy

iTrader: (18)

Great info guys. I'll remember this.

MplSS

Like Randy ws6 said, the stripped out hole allowed me to turn the helicoil tap with just a standard tap wrench by hand. I used the cutting oil method, and just to be sure, I laid an old t-shirt in the rocker valley. All in all, helicoil is the shizz-nit, took my time, and it came out better than I would have ever thought.

porsche914ls6

iTrader: (1)

How did you get the tabs out of the helicoils w/out dropping them into the port/engine? Can you install the first helicoil and leave the tab...and then stack a second one and reach in and snap it out and remove it? Also, I run a 595/605 lift cam and my rocker stud pulled out far enough to allow the rocker to operate very loosely. I hope I didn't bend or ding a valve into a piston. I guess the only way to find out is to pull the head. Any thoughts? I suppose I could get a borescope or something that will allow me to see the top of the piston through the spark plug hole...if I can take a look...I'll see if there is an "eyebrow" created from the valve kissing the piston. Any thoughts?

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

I use a narrow neck needle nose pliers