Bad94

iTrader: (1)

I have a 1995 LT1 with 9 miles that im going put in my 1994 S-10 with a T-56.
I was going to drop it in as a stock bottom end, but im thinking about doing the bottom end and heads now.

I was thinking about a 396 with the 292XFI(some might not like that cam and say go custom) I want a nasty idle. I want to show some local 572 guys what a LT1 can do.

Also i would like a high reving motor, but high revs are what kill parts.

The truck wont be a track only, or DD. I plan to drive the truck on nice days, shows and few trips a year.


Which bottom end would be better for what im after?

KriegerEhre

iTrader: (3)

probably 383 it still carries a nasty idle has a decent rev and is still decently streetable. . . .

96slow6

All three are great choices. 355's can make awesome power up top and rev like crazy. A 383 is going to be alittle more stout in the middle. I do know a few people that rev there 383 up to 7000 rpm. A 396, well its a 396. Its not better then a 383 but you can say I have 396 in my car. I do infact have a 396 in my car. I don't rev past 6500 unless I really need to.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If you want a nasty idle get something not ground on a 113 LSA, in an NA LT1 there are only two reasons to look at something that wide. One being emissions, wide LSA means less overlap and cleaner emissions. The other is to tame the idle when you pick too much duration.

Heads are the most important part of the equasion, not displacement, not the cam, what were you thinking of for that??

Bad94

iTrader: (1)

The Dart casting from AI that are ported.

LT14LIFE JT

iTrader: (1)

It all depends on the setup. I know stock bottom end LT1s in the 10s and 383 LT1s in the 12s. Of course the stock bottom end is a radical cam( probably solid roller) and the 383 is mild and pump gas, daily driven. A stoker LT1 in a light S-10 is alot of torque to handle. I'd go with a 355 forged and a ton of spray for after the holeshot.

97blkz

iTrader: (1)

Budget is the key, do not build one of those shitty poorly built 383 or 396. Now if you can do it right on any of them there is no doubt it's a 396. I love mine!

Hark_Z

iTrader: (12)

I agree.

Bad94

iTrader: (1)

Budget? whats that? Not trying to sound like a badass, but when we build a car at my shop, we dont cheap out on the motors, that the heart of a car.


I would think that i should be able to build a 396 for $5000-$6000.


The truck we be around the #3300-#3400 when done.

I want to run in the high 11's. I do have a NX kit for GM EFI sitting on the shelf.

97blkz

iTrader: (1)

****, if budgets not an issue you better run better than high 11's. Yes you "can" build a 396 for 5-6K. IMO do it right I'd spend north of that by 6K. I'd want a hogan or similar intake, solid roller and some bad *** heads. Callies crank, block half filled ,I could keep going but you get the point!

Bad94

iTrader: (1)

I still want it street able. LOL

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

check out www.lt4blazer.net Fannon has a clean set up on his 1st gen blazer and his buddy Troy has an s10 similar to what you want to do! enjoy bro!

97blkz

iTrader: (1)

It would be, I know of set-ups like this and they are street driven.

1SLO6

iTrader: (8)

Damn if u work at a shop u should know the answer to your question. i assume r asking for opinions and not input on what to do.... y do 383 WHEN U CAN DO A 396!!! u can make a 355 run almost as great as a 383 depending on your head, ofcourse....my opinion do the 396 CI. yeah it my not rev like a 355 or 383 but y would u need to with all the torque.... u wont lose.

97blkz

iTrader: (1)

Why rev the **** outta a car when we know that leads to failure. If you can make boat loads of Tq under 6K , do it!!