Crank Bolt
04-05-2008, 09:31 PM
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Crank Bolt OK I searched a lot and found a lot for re-installing the crank bolt, but not a lot for removing it. I have the breaker bar, the socket and a 3 ft piece of pipe and still cant break free the crank bolt. Its it OK to set the hot wrench on it for a bit, or am I gonna mess stuff up? BTW I have already bent a 3" extension trying to get this thing off.
NOW.....perhaps I am a bit thick, but I am a bit mixed up with the re-install. I PLANNED on using the stock bolt. I also planned on seating the pully back on with a block of wood and a hammer, and then installing the bolt. I have read pros and cons of going to a longer crank bolt. Again, I am mixed up on torquing the crank bolt on, then taking it off, and putting it back on. Why would you put it on, take it off and then put it on again?
Can somebody explain the install in idiots terms so I can understand. I have come this far w/o breaking anything, don't wanna start now.
NOW.....perhaps I am a bit thick, but I am a bit mixed up with the re-install. I PLANNED on using the stock bolt. I also planned on seating the pully back on with a block of wood and a hammer, and then installing the bolt. I have read pros and cons of going to a longer crank bolt. Again, I am mixed up on torquing the crank bolt on, then taking it off, and putting it back on. Why would you put it on, take it off and then put it on again?
Can somebody explain the install in idiots terms so I can understand. I have come this far w/o breaking anything, don't wanna start now.
04-05-2008, 10:22 PM
#4
The procedure to reinstall the crank pulley bolt has been writen up many times, LS1HowTo has a few as well as other..
Use a longer bolt with a few washer and a lot of grease on the washer.. get a bolt about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch to seat the pulley, then remove it. Once it is on and seated then use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft, torque that bolt down to 240lb/ft. or as much as you can. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take a NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lb/ft. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and turn the bolt 140 degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some, so you well need to lock the crank or flywheel, put in gear, etc.
I suggest marking the bolt and pulley at where you start and where you want to stop..(140 degree).
Good luck
Use a longer bolt with a few washer and a lot of grease on the washer.. get a bolt about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch to seat the pulley, then remove it. Once it is on and seated then use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft, torque that bolt down to 240lb/ft. or as much as you can. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take a NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lb/ft. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and turn the bolt 140 degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some, so you well need to lock the crank or flywheel, put in gear, etc.
I suggest marking the bolt and pulley at where you start and where you want to stop..(140 degree).
Good luck
04-05-2008, 10:45 PM
#5
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
I know its been written up many times, but with the debates and such bbout bolt length, it wasn't clear to me.....you made it very clear, just need to buy another bolt and be on my way.
In reference to taking the bolt out, I just muscled it out. I bent a 3" 1/2 drive extension in the process, but its out !!!
In reference to taking the bolt out, I just muscled it out. I bent a 3" 1/2 drive extension in the process, but its out !!!
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04-06-2008, 11:17 AM
#9
TECH Addict
I advise that you do not pull the pulley back on with a bolt but use a threaded rod (or a bolt long enough to use as a threaded rod) as pictured above. Get the bolt screwed into the crank a good ways and then using a nut and washers pull the pulley on.
04-06-2008, 03:36 PM
#10
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Can you send me the "ingrediants" for that tool you pictured? I know its nuts, washers, and all thread, but the sizes are what I am looking for. When using that tool, how do you know when to stop? Do you torque that nut to 240 or as close as you can get as one would in the ls1howto article or no?
04-06-2008, 04:21 PM
#11
Can you send me the "ingrediants" for that tool you pictured? I know its nuts, washers, and all thread, but the sizes are what I am looking for. When using that tool, how do you know when to stop? Do you torque that nut to 240 or as close as you can get as one would in the ls1howto article or no?
04-06-2008, 04:41 PM
#12
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I had my motor on the engine stand, so putting the car in gear would have....just put the car in gear!!
Anyway, I tried my 1/2" drive pneumatic impact, which usually has a lot of *****, but this time, and the first time EVER, it wasn't enough. So, I borrowed a friends 3/4" drive pneumatic impact and used a 3/4-1/2 reducer/adapter to drive my 1/2 drive socket (from the 3/4 drive impact), and hoped like hell it didn't twist off the adapter/reducer!!! It didn't, but it still took most all of the big 3/4 drive's torque to finally twist it loose!!! I know.....not everyone has a buddy w/a 3/4 drive impact. I got lucky. AND....it was still a hell of an ordeal. I agree w/vettenuts as to the threaded rod idea. You can usually find something like this at a place (around here, anyway) like Mid-States bolt and screw, or Fastenal, etc.. Check out the Yellow pages if the local hardware is fruitless. I am still trying to figure out how I'm gonna hold onto this beast to try and torque down the damper when it comes time for the re-install!! By the way, I went with an ARP balancer bolt, as I thought I would have my hands full just trying to get to 240 ft. lbs. of twist, never mind the trying to figure out and see the extra 140 degrees of extra angle!!! Good luck.
Anyway, I tried my 1/2" drive pneumatic impact, which usually has a lot of *****, but this time, and the first time EVER, it wasn't enough. So, I borrowed a friends 3/4" drive pneumatic impact and used a 3/4-1/2 reducer/adapter to drive my 1/2 drive socket (from the 3/4 drive impact), and hoped like hell it didn't twist off the adapter/reducer!!! It didn't, but it still took most all of the big 3/4 drive's torque to finally twist it loose!!! I know.....not everyone has a buddy w/a 3/4 drive impact. I got lucky. AND....it was still a hell of an ordeal. I agree w/vettenuts as to the threaded rod idea. You can usually find something like this at a place (around here, anyway) like Mid-States bolt and screw, or Fastenal, etc.. Check out the Yellow pages if the local hardware is fruitless. I am still trying to figure out how I'm gonna hold onto this beast to try and torque down the damper when it comes time for the re-install!! By the way, I went with an ARP balancer bolt, as I thought I would have my hands full just trying to get to 240 ft. lbs. of twist, never mind the trying to figure out and see the extra 140 degrees of extra angle!!! Good luck. 
12-15-2008, 04:33 AM
#15
This past weekend I did this such thing. To put the pulley back on we used the ARP bolt with out the washer. It worked and just pulled it on with the impact. One thing that was done before removal was we marked a length from the face of the water pump on the block.
12-15-2008, 07:00 PM
#18
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take the pulley in the house...preheat oven to 350*/place pulley on an oven rack for about 15 minutes....then take it back to your car and slide it on....
this works great it wont slide all the way on but will go on enough to safely pull it the rest of the way on using youre old bolt....you have to work fast cause the pulley starts cooling off really fast....
this works great it wont slide all the way on but will go on enough to safely pull it the rest of the way on using youre old bolt....you have to work fast cause the pulley starts cooling off really fast....
12-15-2008, 07:03 PM
#19
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take the pulley in the house...preheat oven to 350*/place pulley on an oven rack for about 15 minutes....then take it back to your car and slide it on....
this works great it wont slide all the way on but will go on enough to safely pull it the rest of the way on using youre old bolt....you have to work fast cause the pulley starts cooling off really fast....
this works great it wont slide all the way on but will go on enough to safely pull it the rest of the way on using youre old bolt....you have to work fast cause the pulley starts cooling off really fast....
thanks for the tip
12-15-2008, 07:14 PM
#20
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take the pulley in the house...preheat oven to 350*/place pulley on an oven rack for about 15 minutes....then take it back to your car and slide it on....
this works great it wont slide all the way on but will go on enough to safely pull it the rest of the way on using youre old bolt....you have to work fast cause the pulley starts cooling off really fast....
this works great it wont slide all the way on but will go on enough to safely pull it the rest of the way on using youre old bolt....you have to work fast cause the pulley starts cooling off really fast....