Red1996SS1519

iTrader: (7)

I'm having some oil pressure issue, it's a 383 supercharged :

At a cold start it shows close to 70 (Which is the line between the half to the full), after it warms up it goes down to around 30 and I drive it for about an hour it goes down to almost the red mark and my "Check Gauges" light comes on.

How come it shows good oil pressure when you first start it (Cold start) and never after that?

Jditlfm

iTrader: (26)

what type of oil is in it weight wise?

Red1996SS1519

iTrader: (7)

Mobile 10W30 , I also used the that Lucast bottle this time, people told me it's good to use.
I never had the pressure that low though, I know it always was kinda low but not this low, maybe some serious engine issue? Metal shavings in the oil pan was one thing I found in my last oil change, I was planing to take the stroker out and check it but what's with the oil pressure being hight at cold start and then low?

Jditlfm

iTrader: (26)

Man Metal shavings in the oil pan is a pretty big indicator something is wrong internally. Thats like a person pissing blood. LOL. You should not drive it anymore, and your going to have to take it apart and see whats wrong sounds like a spun bearing to me. can't be 100% sure of anything until you get it apart though. At least thats my take on it. can you hear any knocking or weird engine noises?

Red1996SS1519

iTrader: (7)

Not engine noises yet, the blower is too loud to allow other noises to come up I guess . I'm planing on taking the engine out soon, but wanted to see if there's any connection to the low oil pressure.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

How many miles are on it?
How big were the Shavings and how easy was it to find them..?

97LT1

iTrader: (3)

the lucas oil treatment sucks. It foams up it has been proven. That=bad for oil.

Red1996SS1519

iTrader: (7)

I bought the engine and was told it has 3000 niles on it, I already drove it for 4k and if that was true, the engine has around 7k miles on it.
The shavings are really small, I don't feel any lack of performance (Yet), it's just that it's burning oil and I can see it when I check the oil indicator every once in a while, this engine is burning oil. I know I will end up taking it out soon to check it, but any suggestion from you guys will be very much appreciated. I have to add almost half a quart every 10 days or so.
It's amazing how different opinions people have, I respect everyone's opinion including your's 97LT1, but I only want to know the TRUTH , is it good to use AS MANY others told me around here, or is it BAD as you said it is? I really really don't know, I'm just amazed how people have so many diferent opinions and for me to guess and find out what's good and what's bad, I really don't know man.
Keep ur opinions coming guys, I really appreciate it, the oil pan bolt has a magnet tip on it and it did catch few small metal shavings that I have no idea where they are coming from.

Red1996SS1519

iTrader: (7)

Just called a friend of mine and here is his opnion:
i'm showing good oil pressure AT COLD START because the oil at that point is still THICK. And then when it warms up, the oild pressure drops a lot. POINT: TO USE A THICK OIL.
What's a good THICK oil to use guys? I want to see if that's going to change it. Do you think that could be the case? I'm running 10W30 right now.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I'm using 10W-40 in my Engine, and I have no problems..

Another possibility it the the Oil Pressure Sending Unit can be going out..they do give funny readings when they are about to ****..but I don't see this one cause Metal Shavings in the Oil at 7K miles isn't a good thing either..somethings wrong.

letsrun97z

iTrader: (7)

i have the same problem for the last 15k cold start up is 45-60psi (depends how cold it is) then when its hot 160' idle will drop to 2-5 psi and wont go past 35-40psi wot no noises but i noticed that the mobil 10w30 thined out way too soon and i switched penzoil 10w40 and hot is 5-8 psi i tryed 15w 40 but the lifters start making noise.. and in the sun i can see metal--brass shavings glimmer in the sun

O Holy P

iTrader: (9)

I use Valvoline VR1 Racing 20w50 in my 396. I change the oil about every 1k~1,500 miles. But it typically just sees garage duty and light to moderate street time. I've been down the oil pressure road before, oil pressure is your engines best friend.

Red1996SS1519

iTrader: (7)

Well, can someone guess what's the problem here? a different friend told me something about the oil pump screen, since there's metal shavings they get on the screen and make the pump NOT to pump as it should? Any sense in that guys?

Red1996SS1519

iTrader: (7)

I really don't hear any noises, but again, the blower is too loud and I can't tell if the engine is making any noises, watch the video, nothing has changed since then.

O Holy P

iTrader: (9)

Bottom line is you have an issue, it is just a matter of time before something catastrophic happens. More than likely you have bearings wearing out rapidly due to the metal content in the oil, this will cause higher oil temperatures, increased clearance between the bearing surface & rods/crank/cam, damage to internals, and obviously lower pressure when warm/hot. I have been through a similar situation where I got to the point where I was running straight 60 weight oil (SAE 60) to keep the pressure up, what ended up happening was I snapped a billet cam in 2 pieces, front two cam bearings were shot, and the torsenal friction caused the event. This was all due to a mistake by a machine shop who forgot to de-bur the bottoms of my cylinder walls which cut into the pistons and in the end trashed them. Luckily the rods & crank were OK.

Drive it till it fails, or yank it out.

rx8ss

try removing your belts and if needed hook a battery charger up and start it cold and let it warm up and listen for noise changes. Also if you can get your hands on a mechanical gauge to watch oil pressure. I personaly do not like mobil one in none specific built engines for mobile one. As stated before run Valvoline and no additives. When changing oil if you do not have a oil cooler check the bypass to make sure the disc is in place.

Good luck

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I say pull it and re-build it, that way everything is clean and fresh.
It sucks but it's better than a Rod through the side..


Sounds like you may need to investigate that one too..

97LT1

iTrader: (3)

here is the link on the lucas. Additives are not necessary.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

CLHAKA

iTrader: (12)

Walked Out of the journal...

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

I run valvoline vr1 20w50 and change it every 1000-1500mi also, oil psi is 70 cold 60 warm! The guy who built my motor told me to only run vr1 20w50. Thats all my dad has ever ran in his big block chevy race motors. He has an old 1977 two bolt main 454 that was punched to a 468 and now is a 488. it's ben makin over 750hp for 20 years! It went over 300 passes before having the valvetrain freshened up, running low 8's in a tube chassis 85 corvette, lenco 4 speed, doorslammer. That was in the early 90's, he had it in the 7's with a bigger motor before he sold it. Point is that it is proven stuff, im not a fan of senthetic in a lt-1 or any older gen chevy engine. Food for thought...