Orange_crush

iTrader: (8)

I am looking for some parts to build a 99 trans am on a budget. For starters, I picked up a 99 trans am with 147k miles! It is 99% stock with a after market muffler. So I had big plans of building a motor/tranns/diff/fuel system and slap on a T76 single kit and have a pretty stout car. Now plans have changed a bit and my budget is gone for the car for this year. So now all I have left is a 99 trash am that runs excellent and a T76 turbo kit. I know to some this maybe be pointless, but after selling my Camaro I have the need for speed. My budget is $1500. and a goal of a 10.xxx second 1/4 mile pass this year. So I am turning to my fellow LS1er's in help of searching for some supporting mods to get me into the 10's on 1500 bucks.

I believe I will need;
-3500ish stall
-shift kit
-T/A rear end girdle(bought for $100)
-42# injectors
-upgraded valve springs
-Z06 cam or stock cube friendly turbo cam
-hardened pushrods
-fuel pump
-upgraded tq. arm
-8pt roll cage
-double roller timing chain
-high volume oil pump

I know the car is gonna blow up, but truthfully with 147k the drivetrain is worthless anyway. So I might as well see how long it can hang in there. And its definatly gonna get trailered to the track since it will probly need to be trailered home.

Soul Crusher

Keep:
stock cam,
stock valve springs,
stock oil pump,
stock timeing chain,
stock pushrods,
stock tq. arm

Get:
Walbro high flow fuel pump ($150sih?)
No idea on stall size or cost (I'm a t56 guy)
42# injectors... or bigger ($500-$600)
A friend who can do the cage for you ($beer)
ARP rod bolts, raise redline + add streingth ($80)
ARP head bolts, more boost less head lifting ($160)
MLS head gasket, same reason as above ($180)

Hope the left overs can cover the stall.

PS I'm assumeing you allready have a good set of tires... otherwise get some and deal with fueling and that should fill your budget

cam

iTrader: (9)

Lose the stock push rods and valve springs or say good bye to your motor but the above list sounds about right

Dave J

iTrader: (2)

I wish I had friends that would do a $1600.00 cage for beer
heck I paid 1400 for my 6 point molly

Orange_crush

iTrader: (8)

I forgot to mention I have all the gaskets for a heads & cam swap, M/T 26.5's with skinnies. I got a shift light, boost guage, A/F guage, and dual guage pod.

I have a line on 42# injectors, tq.arm, line loc, timing chain, PRC springs, adjustable LCA's, & fuel pump for around $800 w/shipping. I hope it goes through. That would leave $700 for a stall, shift kit, and roll cage if I dont swap cams. Spohn has a 8pt cage for $169.95+$80US for swingouts. Shipping is what could kill a guy for keeping costs low. I am also buying mods that I can use later on aswell, the T/A cover I will be able to sell as long as the internals dont come through it when the 10bolt cant hang with the HP.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Well Orange thought you were going for a vette this time around? Should have just worked on your sti to get it into the 10s its already awd and you said had APS parts on it. Or did you sell it,its not in your sig but you old camaro still is???

Should be interesting to see if you can do 10s with nearly stock stuff. Your car is auto so the rear might survive a couple of passes on your drag tires.Course the auto trannies are weak so that might go bye bye too.A good stall is nearly your entire budget. I have seen the results of much past 8psi on stock piston ls1s.

I have a few for souvenirs will take some pics. 8 psi might get you 500rwhp or so which think will get 10s. I wouldn't bother taking the motor apart this season to do rod bolts or anything major. Just run it was is ,it might hold together,it does have high mileage. Might want to run compression test on it first ,for baseline if nothing else. But turbos can compensate for low compression to a extent. If you are going to take it out might as well do it once and do it right like your last car. The z06 cams are pretty cheap used and virutally identical to the lingenfelter turbo cams.

01 ZO6 cam: 204/211 .525/.525 -116 LSA
Lingenfelter GT2 205/212 .540/.540 –116.5CL

02-03 ZO6 cam: 204/218 .551/.547 -117.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT2-3 207/220 .571/.578 –118.5CL

05-07 ZO6 cam 210/230 .561/.557 –120.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT7 208/230 .554/.546 –121CL

Pretty simular don't you think?

Not sure on lobes and ramp rates they might be different.

Ck was selling used racetronix pump on our board.

I think I would put in some comp 918s though especially if you are doing cam anyway. Its the rod bolts and head gaskets likely woudln't bother with. Some guys have run pretty good boost on just arp head bolts. Not sure you can do head studs without the engine being out of the car?? And you can run around 8psi on stock bolts and head gaskets.

Life is a circle sometimes .You had a fully built 402 camaro that you just had to throw your turbo kit on. But hey sounds like this one will be more track oriented. Strip it down and make it light. TAS are heavier than the camaros though. By think a few hundred pounds.They look better though.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Ok guess was wrong the rod bolts are pretty big weak link at 500 or 550rwhp . Think it takes about 600 engine hp to do 10s depending on weight and 60ft?? You got 10s with your camaro on spray I thought last season?

Dave J

iTrader: (2)

mine only makes 451 rwhp and 366 rwtq on the dynojet and I ran 10.73 the first time out at 3450 lbs and a crappy 60ft(1.55) and a crappy 1800 ft density altitude

I plan on getting into the 10.20`s this year with the same setup except 100 pounds lighter and a suspention tune.
I just hope I can get a 1.39 60ft and a negitive D/A on the same day

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Hmm guess less power can do the job but you have a huge stall,course nothing to stop him from going big stall if its mostly a track only project.
And of course if you have a light car it takes less power too.

Also you have lt1 ,not sure about the ls1 rod bolts just been reading a bit about them being weak at those power levels. Should be doable to get into the 10s and even 10.99 is still a 10 since he already has the turbo kit. Like he said how long it holds together is another matter but not a big deal if you just trailer it home and fix it up over the winter or whatever. Thats the fun of racing. To see what you can do with the least amount of cash sometimes.

I am doing a fairly similar thing on my 91 auto talon race car project. Goal with that one is to go into 10s also . Since its track only can do a lot of lightening of the car so might not need as much power. raceweight I think will be about 2700 maybe even less. And awd makes for some great 60fts even on street tires.

Anyway be interesting to see how Orange makes out. His last camaro was very nice car and pretty darn fast. As said too bad he didn't just put the turbo kit on that car. It already have nice forged engine and all the good stuff, rear end,etc. But as I said sometimes life is a big circle.

Jason Haines @ LPE

Not to hijack this thread but HP isn't the primary thing that fails rod bolts so rod bolts shouldn't really be rated for horsepower. Rod bolts usually fail in tension, not compression. What causes increased tension load is higher engine rpm (and heavier pistons if you happen to switch to heavier pistons for some reason).

On the ASA engines we changed the rod bolts on all the engines as part of the build specifications because of the extended operation at high rpm that was expected for these engines and the elevated RPM limit that was planned.

The later LS1/LS6 engines have a stronger rod bolts than the earlier LS1 engines. I think the change over happened at the same time as they went to the trapped bolt style of rod bolts. I think it was roughly 2001, when the LS6 first came out.

If you feel you need stronger rod bolts because of the rpm range your engine will see (or for what ever reason you feel you need them) several companies offer replacement rod bolts for the stock rods.

Now back to the actual point of this thread (sorry).

Orange_crush

iTrader: (8)

I believe I will need;
-3500ish stall
-shift kit
-T/A rear end girdle(traded for amp)
-42# injectors('JrDragster' pkg for $875)
-upgraded valve springs(pkg $875)
-'03 Z06 cam ('BillC5'pkg $150)
-hardened pushrods(pkg $150)
-ARP rod bolts (pkg $150)
-fuel pump(pkg $875)
-upgraded adjustable tq. arm(pkg $875)
-adjustable LCA's(pkg 875)
-8pt roll cage
-double roller timing chain(pkg $875)
-high volume oil pump
-Line loc(pkg $875)

Stall, shift kit, & cage needed, Budget left $475

Hey Jason@LPE, you cant barge in here without atleast having some parts laying around to donate to a worthy cause. You guys probly got extras and parts that were used for testing just layin around! Help a guy out!


And Alvis, keep your DSM talk to a DSM forum. My car turbo kit,& parts is gonna run me just shy of 11g's. Thats less than your 408 and APS kit. We should race at SIR and see who crosses first. See you in the 10's lol

CK-1 99SS

iTrader: (3)

Can I play too..

Jason Haines @ LPE

Sorry, most of our take-off parts, test parts and excess inventory get sold in ebay store.

Do I understand the list below that you are getting a set of 42 lbs/hr injectors for $875 or is the $875 for all of those parts combined? If it is just the injectors that sounds expensive to me. I think we sell them for around $450 or less for the set.

For the 2003 Z06 LS6 camshaft you shouldn't need anything more than the 2002+ LS6 valve springs that you can get for $53 for a set of 16.

I wouldn't put a high volume pump in that combination (if I am reading this correctly you have a stock bottom end with stock lifters). A stock pump or the Melling 10295 should be fine.

Double roller timing chain shouldn't be needed either but some people prefer to go that route.

If you keep the factory rockers you shouldn't need hardened pushrods although I would recommend checking the lifter compression when you install everything just to make sure you don't need longer pushrods (because of the smaller camshaft base circle on the LS6 camshaft compared to your stock LS1 camshaft).

The fuel pump upgrade shouldn't cost you more than $250 (plus install labor) unless you are getting a voltage booster or a double pump system for some reason (BIG nitrous shot or something?).

If you are doing nitrous you may want a timing retard box (unless you will be doing it in the calibration).

For the drag strip a 2-step can be helpful.

If you don't have it already I would get some type of data logging hardware/software (EFILive, Autotap, HPTuners, DashDAQ, etc.).

If this is a 1998-2000 F-body, the LS6 intake makes a good upgrade if you can find someone that will sell you one cheap (someone that upgraded to a FAST intake or to the L92/L76/LS3 heads on a bigger displacement engine).

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Orange I was being nice. You are correct my longblock and APS kit cost more than your 11,000. So if you forgot a comma in there you got your car for pretty cheap even considering the mileage.Is that 157,000 miles or 157,000 km?

Now we know that your car might hang together for awhile or it might not. Hypercrap pistons are weak as heck. Not to mention its high mileage. Never mind if you put in rod bolts.
460 trannies are also very weak. And tranny goes it might hurt that new stall.
Rear ends well you have an auto but seen them break at less power on non turbo cars before let alone the power and torque the turbo is going to hit that with if you hook it up on some sticky tires.And don't think a tranny rear cover will save it.

So you know yourself that while this project sounds reasonably cheap in the long run its likely to spiral up to be pretty expensive. Like I said you already had a great car with forged motor, strong rear end ,etc too bad you sold it and are doing pretty much the same thing again. But sure you had your reasons.

Now if we want to talk cheap I paid a big 500 bucks for my 91 awd race talon with low original miles. I could run it tommorrow if fix the leaking water pump. The stock engines have held up to 500 engine hp. The stock auto trannies have also done 10s. Just throw a big used turbo on it and front mount intercooler and away you go. Already have tuning installed and fuel system.

Now not sure if 500 engine hp can put that car in the 10s. And not sure will have any time to work on it this year with 99 TT project to finish.But don't expect to have much more than 5000 total in my talon race car.

So lets change our challenge to who can build a 10 second car for less money then?

And just so you say I never had a 10 second run at any track you are correct. Never have ,maybe this year will be the year,maybe next year.
Maybe year after that.

Anyway trying to stay on topic.
So this is Jason from lingenfelter? How come you guys never answer your email? Sent many never had one reply. Also you should offer a cam a bit more aggressive than the gt7 or gt 2-3. The gt11 has too much lift .Maybe something more like 590 or 600 lift max.With a nice 118 or so lsa. Reasonable duratiion. Not sure on splits maybe a couple of splits normal ,reverse,no split..a bit more selection. I would have went gt11 like APS did on their build but don't want to be doing valve springs every 20,000 miles.And might still go custom at some point but will see how the little gt7 does. Likely good enough for me.

ls1jim

Hopes and Dreams Fan Club has found its way to LS1Tech.

Orange_crush

iTrader: (8)

Does it make you feel better about yourself to talk down about some guys having fun with a car? The project is dubbed KABOOM , I think thats more than fitting given the circumstances. I could just pull the drivetrain now and let it sit for the summer while I build a solid drivetrain but I figure I might aswell have fun with it.

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

My stock 4l60e has 52k on it and has a shift kit, aftermarket cooler and vigilante 3200 stall. Only seen bolt on's and one run down the track, no power adders ever. I am pulling the entire drivetrain and powertrain out only to sell for spare cash instead of granading it all. Pretty much the oposite theory of you, LOL With my forged 370 I know I'll push it way beyond anyhow, so what's the point.

I'd like to get rid of the entire trans package together since I am not reusing any of it, including the cooler. If you are interested please pm me, another plus for you is that you are very close to me I believe. If I remeber right is it Meadow Lake? I'm in Lloydminster.

To bad you never posted this a month or so back, I had a hotcam on 114LSA that would have worked nice. 219/228 .525/.525 114 LSA with an LS2 chain which would have been more than enough and very cost effective. I also need to get rid of my stock 10 bolt with 3.42's, which work great in turbo's and its got a stud girdle. Not going to ask a fortune for it thats for sure. Again, why blow it up if I can get a couple hundred. Just saw you found a girdle though.

Shoot me a pm

platinum1

iTrader: (7)

i have a brand new aeromotive eliminator external pump. 300 shipped

Jason Haines @ LPE

Yes, I am Jason from Lingenfelter Performance Engineering.

I get a lot of emails/voicemails and PM's EVERY day but I try to answer all of the messages I get. Did you send me an email and I didn't reply?

With the correct valve springs you don't have to change them every 10,000 or 20,000 miles just because you have higher lift. We run higher lift camshafts to take advantage increase airflow at higher lifts that our ported heads usually deliver. We also use higher lift camshafts to achieve our power targets without having to run as much overlap area so we can maintain better idle quality and driveability.

We use these camshafts in our naturally aspirated engine packages and we expect these engines to last without needing valve spring changes. We warranty our installed engine packages for 36,000 miles.

We have other camshafts available with not every camshaft grind combination we have used being listed on our web site. If someone wants something specific, we can get it made for them but our standard installed packages and crate engines use the camshafts shown on our web site.

Sorry if this is getting a bit off topic (again).

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Ok Jason nice to have you online.