darrensls1

I have a 99 formula with the stock shortblock and thus the stock rod bolts. Car is getting ETP 215 heads, fast 92, Streetsweeper cam (236/240 111 lsa), rods, PT4400 stall, built trans, ect. I have 10K all ready invested and my install date is scheduled for the end of May. But I have a dilema.......

This setup will easily see peak HP at 6500-6700 rpm's and hold strong past 7k rpm's. Aftermarket rod bolts installed will run me another $750 which I may or may not be able to come up with in time. If I can't and have to run the stock 99 rod bolts then where would you set the shiftpoint?

Obviously 6900+ is out of the question so the choices are 6400-6800. I'm kind of leaning towards 6700 but I'm not sure. I don't want to blow the motor in a month. As long as I get a few seasons out of this setup I'm ok with it. This car will be track only and basically live it's life a quarter mile at a time

All kidding aside this car will see around 75-100 passes per season. So I would like to get say 200 passes before I need to buy a forged shortblock. What do you guys think?

MikeG

iTrader: (33)

You're probably gonna be on borrowed time at 6700 with stock rod bolts. You might be fine, you might not. I voted 6500. But hey, whats an extra 200 rpm?

HottLS1Z

iTrader: (5)

Had my revlimiter at 7K shifted around 6800-6900, lasted for bout 20K then spun a bearing, dont think rod bolts are the weak point like everyone thinks. Engine builder said the bearings are the weakest link then the rod bolts, 90% of his LS rebuilds are spun bearings only one was a rod bolt and he was spinnin to 7400 lol

DaveX

6500 is my vote. You may get away with more, but maybe not. If not you know the consequences. And how much are you really going to gain by trying to push it a few hundred more rpm? It's best to take this into consideration when putting your combo together so you can maximize power under the curve instead of having to twist it to 7k+ to get the most out of it on a factory bottom end.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

02 Bottomend With 550+rwhp I Spin To 6700-6800 For A Long Time Now With No Problems

gold98Z28

iTrader: (7)

what i want to know is how is it gonna cost 750 for rod bolts, is the engine still in the car?????

02 BLK WS6

iTrader: (11)

I voted 6500, just to be on the safe side.

ssfast99

iTrader: (3)

i have run my stock 99 short block to 7200 rpm every time i go to the track running 243 heads, t-rex, and nitrous. stock rod bolts hate me but they work just fine. this set up has gone two years for me and show no signs of slowing down. i have never removed the oil pan or timing set or oil pump, all stock.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

I tore up my stock ls1 at 64k shifting at 6200 rpms. You just cant tell sometimes. I'd agree with what was posted that after 6500 your on borrowed time but there are those who thrash them at 6900 rpms for ever and never break a thing. Lets face it, it all depends on what day your engine was built at the factory..lol

FiredUpZ28

^Werd

darrensls1

Engine is still in the car. Shop owner told me if we do rod bolts to figure that the bolts will be around $150 and he'll want an additional $600 for the extra labor.

darrensls1

Yeah but the 01-02 models had stronger rod bolts so unfortunately that doesn't help me. If I knew then what I know now, I would have held out for an 01 WS6 so I could have gotten the better rod bolts, ls6 intake, cooler looking hood and 17" wheels.

blue99fbody

iTrader: (5)

My rev limiter is set at 6700 on my 99 my tuner said he wouldnt spin it past that. no problems so far and im on the rev limiter quite a bit

Hardtop

iTrader: (3)

I said 6500. My 01 had ARP rod bolts and I would shift at 6800 rpm. Never had any problems with it.

Top Fuel

iTrader: (8)

I voted 6800. Don't hold back on me now, you know i wanna see what those ETP's can do on the track

Seriously, I have my light set at 6800 so I'm prolly shifting at 7000 for best results. When I was having 4l60e problems, the 1-2 would hit my 7500 limiter every pass. Occasionally I still hit 7500 in the burnout box. I have an early 00' so I'm not sure if I have the old rod bolts or upgraded ones. The point is I've been trying to blow up this ****** for a while now and it wont happen. At H/C power levels you dont see many people blowing them up unless they did a big wheelie and starved the motor of oil. IMO either keep the front end down or buy an aftermarket oil pan, that seems more important than the shift rpm. Its going to blow when it wants to blow regardless of the shift rpm.

EarlSS

I got a late modell 00' that came out with the 241 heads so i'm not sure if i got upgraded rod bolts or not but i'll be shifting at 6500 when i do heads and cam.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

If any of ya do happen to have some bad luck, contact me for a signature series 408. I've had a 408 commisioned for what I feel is the best money spent on a durable engine. FI or N/a options short or long block. I prefer a 408 over a 402 for the money saving on the block and your ls1 stuff will swap right over. It only weights 75lbs more, you will never feel it. Aluminum is an option for those who prefer

darrensls1

I went over my outstanding invoices and it looks like I can swing the extra $750 so I should be getting upgraded rod bolts

With a 5800 shift extension on the PT4400 stall and a 6800 shift point this setup should absolutely scream down the track. I can't wait.

gold98Z28

iTrader: (7)

would have saved some labor to plan this from the go and drop the engine out befor the heads and cam, would have been much easier too.

darrensls1

The heads and cam are not in yet. Nothing gets installed until the end of May. New Era Performance is booked until then

But now that I am adding rod bolts to the list I imagine they will pull the motor and do all the work with the engine out of the car. But that doesn't change the additional cost any. But you gotta pay to play I guess