Pontiac Firebird 1967-2002 - How Tight Are Your Wheels?

Do any of your 98+ Trans Am's have a slight play at the rear wheels? If so, is this normal, or does it mean that the bearings need to be replaced?

just a thought but i remember reading how LT1's won't accept LS1 wheels without modification of the wheels to allow for a sligtly larger calipor or something? could it be that your running larger LT1 style wheels or aftermarket wheels on your LS1 and thus the wheels are slightly too big and thats why you can move them? just a hunch but it seems logical to me based on the modifications that need done to LT1's... although the ZR1's on my car bolted right on and have been there for 3+ years w/o issue

My wheels are stock 17" WS6. Are post 98 WS6 wheels exactly the same as the pre 98 ones?

Are stock wheels supposed to have absolutely no play at the rear?

just a thought but i remember reading how LT1's won't accept LS1 wheels without modification of the wheels to allow for a sligtly larger calipor or something? could it be that your running larger LT1 style wheels or aftermarket wheels on your LS1 and thus the wheels are slightly too big and thats why you can move them? just a hunch but it seems logical to me based on the modifications that need done to LT1's... although the ZR1's on my car bolted right on and have been there for 3+ years w/o issue

I just got polished ws6 rims front fits perfect. but back hub of the rim had to be grinded a little for it to fit.

I was under the impression that 16" rim is a 16" rim :P

I just put a 99+ Rear under my 93, and the stock 16"s cleared just fine, as do the stock 5 spoke 16"s I put on.

Caliper grinding DOES need to be done for 15" rims to fit though.
You can see here where the_merv did it:
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m129/the_merv/CALIPERS.jpg

Do any of your 98+ Trans Am's have a slight play at the rear wheels? If so, is this normal, or does it mean that the bearings need to be replaced?

The latter.

Do any of your rear wheels move slightly when you yank sideways (perpendicular to front and rear)?

just a thought but i remember reading how LT1's won't accept LS1 wheels without modification of the wheels to allow for a sligtly larger calipor or something? could it be that your running larger LT1 style wheels or aftermarket wheels on your LS1 and thus the wheels are slightly too big and thats why you can move them? just a hunch but it seems logical to me based on the modifications that need done to LT1's... although the ZR1's on my car bolted right on and have been there for 3+ years w/o issue


The problem I think you are refering to is the rear hubs are manfactured slightly larger on the LT1s. The differance is about the thickness of a human hair. So, what you do is grind off the differance on the wheels where it goes over the hub.

Do any of your rear wheels move slightly when you yank sideways (perpendicular to front and rear)?

you are not talking about the wheels.. you're talking about being able to pull the axleshaft in and out slightly? correct?

in order to get a proper answer, it helps to ask the proper question.

yes.. a little is normal.

probably a wheel bearing..very common and should be replaced, im going to do mine when i rebuild my rear, only want to take it apart once.

probably a wheel bearing..very common and should be replaced, im going to do mine when i rebuild my rear, only want to take it apart once.

dude. that movement is not a wheel bearing. the bearing centers the axle in the tube. the ability to move the axle in and out has nothing to do with the wheel bearing.

thanks.

It's normal. If they didn't have some play then you wouldn't be able to get the C-clips out to swap gears or axles

It's normal. If they didn't have some play then you wouldn't be able to get the C-clips out to swap gears or axles

exactly

you are not talking about the wheels.. you're talking about being able to pull the axleshaft in and out slightly? correct?

in order to get a proper answer, it helps to ask the proper question.


Yes, you're right. I should've mentioned the axle. Thank you for the clarification.

Well, that's certainly a relief. When I was at the Meineke shop, the guy said that the slight play means I should replace the bearings and that if I drive it like this for more than a week, I could risk damaging the rear end... But then, at another Meineke shop, they told me that you're supposed to have a slight play anyhow. Thanks for the confirmation, BadGTho and Z28/2002.

I was worried about this because I thought it might be causing the faint tapping sound I hear when I start to brake. I know it's not the brakes, and since the axle play doesn't have anything to do with the bearings, could the bearings themselves cause a tapping sound when braking, or would the shocks be the more likely candidate?

Yes, you're right. I should've mentioned the axle. Thank you for the clarification.


meineke? i think that sums it up. retards.

bad rear wheel bearings make a whirring, to a dull sandy noise when they start to go.

the tapping when on the brakes could be the track bar, a cracked brake pad, a control arm... etc.

probably not a bearing.

what causes a light squealing going around a corner? my left rear sometimes makes a screach/squeal when turning... has for a year or more and doesnt happen all the time, just under a fast corner (like say 20mph or more going around a 90 degree corner)

dude. that movement is not a wheel bearing. the bearing centers the axle in the tube. the ability to move the axle in and out has nothing to do with the wheel bearing.

thanks.

oh i guess i missed when he said that, i thought he meant side to side up and down movement. i only skimmed all of the posts. relax, i know what a wheel bearing does.

what causes a light squealing going around a corner? my left rear sometimes makes a screach/squeal when turning... has for a year or more and doesnt happen all the time, just under a fast corner (like say 20mph or more going around a 90 degree corner)

it could be a tire rubbing, or it could be the diff itself. do you have LSD additive in there?

it could also be worn rear pads.. though that's less likely.

it could be a tire rubbing, or it could be the diff itself. do you have LSD additive in there?

99+ rears don't need additive since they're of different design. Just for the record.

99+ rears don't need additive since they're of different design. Just for the record.

whatever you say.

different design or not.. the diff will last longer with the proper additive.

Most of the gear oil now already has limited slip additive in it. I always put a bottle in just to be safe though

Cone (Clutches):
http://tacreationsusa.com/images/Rears/dsc02597.jpg

Worm Gear used in 99+ (No Clutches):
http://tacreationsusa.com/images/Gauges/dsc02809.jpg

In all honesty, what would the additive help with worm gears? (I'm asking with no sarcasm intended)

the additive also can help leaks, and helps to lubricate more fully.. i mean that's what it does, it's friction modifier.

my wheels had play in them (up and down, car on rack). I thought also it was wheel bearings. My car only had roughly 19,500 on it. I replaced both wheels bearing with factory and they still have play. So guess that was normal. oh well I guess tht just give me a reason to put in RP oil. RP already has teh additive installed in it as well as teh factory oil.

My car was not beat on. I knew the guy who bought it orig and he never drives hard or fast. He drives like a 90 yr old grandma.