Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Went out to my parents house this weekend and started the swap. I read the sticky up top a few times and everyting has gone flawlessly so far, but I'm sure its going to get worse. I'm pulling my motor and everything since it needs to come apart again for new rings (mine were set too tight the first time around) and a new 7 quart oil pan. So hopefully I'll have alot of room to mess with everything. I'm taking my camera out this weekend to get some pics and hopefully add some insite to the sticky.

So far the console is out, A4 shifter is out, steering colum is out and the pedals were started, but it was too nice out so I decided to sandblast my spare rear axle and paint it and get it ready for the 4.10 gears. This weekend the motor and tranny should be out pending on my furniture mover that hasn't shown up yet, but to say the least I'm really excited to finally have 6 foward gears

Couple questions though, my bar is ballpark 400rwhp, how necessary are DRs? I want to be able to drive the thing on all the nice days without it being unmanageable. From what I have read 1st and 2nd are pointless at WOT. I was considering the Nittos since they seem to wear alot better than anyone else. Any thoughts?

But thanks for all of the help to anyone that has posted in the sticky

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

One quick question...Do I have to hook up the skip shift wires? I read on here that if you don't hook them up the skip shift won't work, but are there any other problems that can come from not hooking the skip shift up?

Thanks

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Skip shift doesn't need plugged in and it won't cause any problems, other than maybe a light on your dash.

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

Sounds great man, take some pics as you progress.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Thanks man, and no worries on the light it doesn't have a bulb in it ;D

I'll be sure to snap alot of pics

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Alright, just got back from the parents house, didn't really get to work on the car yesturday, mostly just unhooked the wiring off of the motor and went home. My brother and I want to a swap meet to pick up a T5 for his V8 '94 S10 project and came across a T56 that he couldn't pass up on. But I was pretty tired and sore from carrying his tranny and walking around for a few hours to find it.

But today a friend of mine from work came out and helped me get the motor out, had to make 2 trips back home to get a fuel disconnect tool, didn't get the right one the first time. But the motor came out with a little effort, and a Harbor Freight Dolley I strongly suggest that every F-body owner buys one.

I didn't get out there till late so getting the motor out was my accomplishment for the night. I took some pics and will hopefully have them up in a bit.

But my "need" list is as follows.....

Spec clutch disk, Rings, 4.10 gears, reflash, new slave cylinder, and a flywheel. I'm ordering the gears, flywheel, slave, and rings probably tomorrow so all I will need is the reflash and the clutch disk My goal is to have the car driving by the end of May, but I'm hoping it will happen sooner.

More questions: Can I reuse my VSS pigtail from my A4 or do I need the T56 VSS pigtail? Does anyone have the measurements of the hole that is in their floor? I have some pics of holes that were cut, but no demensions and those may be helpful.

Thanks again guys and I'll try to have some pics within the hour

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Pics......











And don't worry, the wheels that the jack stands are on are completely welded together and aren't going anywhere, plus the cherry picker is still on the front of the car. Just so noonww worries about that.

While the car is up in the air I want to take the time and clean up some of the surface rust on the underside of the car and paint everything. Hopefully more progress and pics next weekend

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Made an order at summit today for my rings, intake gaskets and 4.10 gears. My brother owes me some money so he ordered my flywheel and is going to order my disk for me at the end of the week. I'm going to send my PCM to Ion probably Saturday and get it reflashed for the M6 so everything should be back together in the next 3 to 4 weeks I'm guessing. Theres still alot of work to do, but its going to be completely worth it. I can't wait to see how this motor pulls with a good tranny behing it

Omec

iTrader: (2)

hey Turnin, how hard was it to remove the steering colum? i gotta take mine out tonight. sweet jack stands by the way

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Hahaha yeah you gotta love the stands Steering colume was a breeze, take the lower plastic pieces off, 2 bolts for the colum, 2 bolts for the steering colum hanger thing?? and 3 bolts that hold the bottom of the colum in (take these bolts out first) unhook your electrical connections and shes out.

Sorry that I took so long to get back to you, but I just got done work

Omec

iTrader: (2)

I ended up pulling it apart last night, drilling the hole for the master and stressed out over the wiring abit lol. keep us updated on your install.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

For sure man, I just contacted spec about the clutch and need to get that taken car of, but its going to be about $200 less than I thought, so it works out good for me and may bump up my finish date since money is kinda tight right now

Omec

iTrader: (2)

hope you can save a few bucks. my swap has costed me alittle more than i wanted. but i also "had" to do headers, mounts, plugs, wires and y-pipe too . i just went w/ the ls7 clutch set up. what are you planning on putting in for a block? and what date are you shooting for?

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Alright its been a while since I've posted in here but I have been getting a little work done here and there and finally made enough progress to take a few pics to share.

Last week I finished up degreasing the underside of my car, grinding down the small amounts of rust that were there and fully painting the underside with this stuff called "Hammered" (Kinda like me on the weekends ) The paint didn't come out like I was planning, but it went on nice and thick and is suppost to stop rust so we'll see. Pics....



(And yes I painted over all of my brake lines and fuel lines, but this winter I'm planning on all new lines front to back with braided fuel lines and possibly stainless brake lines so I didn't really care if they got painted too)

Then I got the hole cut for the shifter, A4 pedals out, M6 pedals in, holes drilled for that, and finally the master mounted. Pics....










^^^the above pic the clutch pedal is mounted, but the brake isn't the brake actually sits back about a 1/4" but thee clutch still sits lower but only about a 1/4" or so.

Then I took the motor out of the K-member and put it on the engine stand to tear it down, check everything over, replace a few things, and reassemble. Pics....





So far so good. Everything is either on the way or here with the exception of the tune, but I'm waiting until I have everything done to send the computer in. That way I don't rush everything back together, I'm trying to take my time and do everything right this time around.

And I know the pics are kinda big and theres alot, but I'm trying to help anyone else thats doing the swap. But if anyone has lots of pics of the wiring for LT1 cars please post it up. I have some good ideas of what to do, but not 100% on some stuff. I'll aslo have some more pics tomorrow

Black99T\A

iTrader: (17)

Awesome man, great work, Im glad to see that things are coming together for you. Looks really good so far. Keep the pics coming.

meatyshells

iTrader: (10)

lookin good, i did the manual swap on my v6 last year and it wasnt so bad.
i made a small write up, it was on the v6, but pretty much everything is the same

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...174&highlight=

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Alright the update for today....Tore my motor down and everything looks 100%. I'm going to throw some new rod bearings at it since its apart and add the new rings that aren't going to be set too tight I would have had it back together, but I had to order the rod bearings, but no worries.

Heres the pics and specs will be below....


^^little carbon buildup, but my tune is super rich right now
Below is the Moroso 7 quart oil pan for the '86 and up 1 piece rear main motors




The new disk from Spec. Its a stage 3 disk

And my poor car thats being mollested (SP) at the moment


Specs on the motor are as follows....
LT1 .30 over, Decked block, SRP 11.1:1 fordged pistons, Stock crank turned .10, stock rods with ARP faseners, ARP main studs, Older LE3 heads shaved down a little, CC306 cam, Comp R lifters, Pro Mag 1.6 roller rockers, Home ported intake, BBK 58mm throttle body, Holley 36# injectors, !AIR, !EGR, Hooker Coated, but rusty LTs and I'm sure theres more but you get the just of it

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

All of my parts are ordered finally. The pressure plate bolts and flywheel bolts came in today, header gaskets and the header bolts came in yesturday, and the rod bearings and new oil pump pickup will be here tomorrow. I'm sending my PCM to Madz28 friday, so this weekend I'm hoping to get the motor painted and reassembled, bolt it to the tranny and get it back under the car. I have a long weekend so I'm sure it can be done and I'm getting really ancy to drive this thing again. Next weekend I have another long weekend so I think I can get a good 500 miles on the setup to get the gears and clutch broke in so I can start driving it like its suppost to be driven. I'll have a ton of pics this weekend.

Couple of questions though....I don't want to remove the reverse lockout just incase someone else besides me drives the car. I'm planning on running the power wire off of the brake lights to trigger the lockout, but I have heard that if you sit on the brakes too long it can burn up the selonoid for the lockout. Then I have heard to get a diode or resistor and put it in the wire, but what resistor should I use?