Crank pully installation
04-25-2008, 08:14 AM
#1
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Crank pully installation I believe the procedure for intalling the ls1 crank pully is to apply 250 lb ft of torque with the old bolt then to install the new bolt torque to 35 lb ft and then rotate the bolt another 180 degrees. My problem with this is that I don't have a torque wrench capable of measuring 250 lb ft, did all of you buy a new torque wrench just for this? Can you rent them somewhere?
04-25-2008, 09:14 AM
#2
TECH Apprentice
DO NOT USE THE OLD BOLT TO PULL THE PULLEY ON.
Unless of course you WANT to ruin the threads on the crank. Make the tool in the hyperlinked thread. This relieves the pressure off of the crank threads. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...657&highlight=
Use this tool to pull the pulley onto the crank snout. Once its on there good, THEN use the old crank bolt and torque it to 240 lbs. Be sure to make sure the crank snout is recessed to spec. (2.40mm-4.40mm) or there abouts
Remove the old bolt and take your new bolt and torque it to 37 lbs. Once you achive that, turn the bolt an additional 140 degrees to stretch it and thats it. Be sure to lube the threads on all the bolts and the tools.
That is the GM proecdure
Borrow a 250lb torque wrench or rent one from parts store.
Unless of course you WANT to ruin the threads on the crank. Make the tool in the hyperlinked thread. This relieves the pressure off of the crank threads. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...657&highlight=
Use this tool to pull the pulley onto the crank snout. Once its on there good, THEN use the old crank bolt and torque it to 240 lbs. Be sure to make sure the crank snout is recessed to spec. (2.40mm-4.40mm) or there abouts
Remove the old bolt and take your new bolt and torque it to 37 lbs. Once you achive that, turn the bolt an additional 140 degrees to stretch it and thats it. Be sure to lube the threads on all the bolts and the tools.
That is the GM proecdure
Borrow a 250lb torque wrench or rent one from parts store.
04-25-2008, 12:30 PM
#4
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DO NOT USE THE OLD BOLT TO PULL THE PULLEY ON.
Unless of course you WANT to ruin the threads on the crank. Make the tool in the hyperlinked thread. This relieves the pressure off of the crank threads. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...657&highlight=
Use this tool to pull the pulley onto the crank snout. Once its on there good, THEN use the old crank bolt and torque it to 240 lbs. Be sure to make sure the crank snout is recessed to spec. (2.40mm-4.40mm) or there abouts
Remove the old bolt and take your new bolt and torque it to 37 lbs. Once you achive that, turn the bolt an additional 140 degrees to stretch it and thats it. Be sure to lube the threads on all the bolts and the tools.
That is the GM proecdure
Borrow a 250lb torque wrench or rent one from parts store.
Unless of course you WANT to ruin the threads on the crank. Make the tool in the hyperlinked thread. This relieves the pressure off of the crank threads. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...657&highlight=
Use this tool to pull the pulley onto the crank snout. Once its on there good, THEN use the old crank bolt and torque it to 240 lbs. Be sure to make sure the crank snout is recessed to spec. (2.40mm-4.40mm) or there abouts
Remove the old bolt and take your new bolt and torque it to 37 lbs. Once you achive that, turn the bolt an additional 140 degrees to stretch it and thats it. Be sure to lube the threads on all the bolts and the tools.
That is the GM proecdure
Borrow a 250lb torque wrench or rent one from parts store.
04-25-2008, 03:32 PM
#5
I cranked my ARP crank bolt down to 250 ft-lbs after pulling the pulley on with the proper tool...and yes, I bought a torque wrench specifically for this purpose. A big one.
If you are using the stock torque to yield bolt, don't worry about the 240-ish ft-lbs of torque on the old bolt. People did that to make sure the pulley was seated properly, but if you have the proper tool to do this, it isn't necessary. You'll ideally want a wrench that keeps track of the amount you've rotated the bolt...not a torque wrench.
If you are using the stock torque to yield bolt, don't worry about the 240-ish ft-lbs of torque on the old bolt. People did that to make sure the pulley was seated properly, but if you have the proper tool to do this, it isn't necessary. You'll ideally want a wrench that keeps track of the amount you've rotated the bolt...not a torque wrench.
