Manual Transmission - Clutch grabbing high, pedal adjustment without master cylinder adjustment

This past weekend my clutch pedal hit the floor (master cylinder blew). On Tuesday I replaced my 99 stock clutch master cylinder with a new stock one for an 02. I also did the drill mod. Everything worked great but after the install the pedal was grabbing near the top of the pedal travel. Side note... still running stock ORIGINAL 99 clutch, pressure plate, slave, etc. All with 100,500 original miles.

So I read the stock master cylinder adjustment. Sounds great but I didn't want to pull the master cylinder back out. So, I used an alternative method to adjust the pedal. I have removed the cruise control sensor and installed a bolt to adjust how far the clutch pedal can now travel. I then did a re-bleed of the master cylinder from the new point. I also remounted the cruise control sensor below the bolt.

So far it seems to be working perfectly fine. I do realize that my oem clutch probably doesn't have mutch left and installing a new clutch will probably effect pedal travel in the future.

Any comments. I've got some pics so far of the bolt and cruise control. I will also take a pic of the failure point on the master cylinder (small black rubber washer).

Pedal Adjustment bolt and cruise switch.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c347/PuterZ99/PICT4408.jpg

Master cylinder failure point.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c347/PuterZ99/PICT4410.jpg

damn im having some issues with something like that to the engage and disengagement point is at the very top the rest is just free play im going to try this.

nice there .

Here's where I see a problem with this mod.

You have a master that doesn't run a lot of fluid to begin with. Now you've restrained how much fluid it can move. I think stock clutches are self adjusting as well, so after some time the engagement point will move a bit. Next what if you get air in the system? Or if the fluid degrades? That free play now becomes the lifeline that may save your clutch in future before you catch on to an impending problem.

It could be that you perceive something to be free play but in reality you've just gone past the friction holding point of the clutch but have not "separated" the clutch from the flywheel and pressure plate letting drag occur and having the syncros in the transmission take up the slack of a sloppy shift.

This is just a thought before anyone else goes in and thinks this is a good idea over a true adjustable that actually does give you more leeway with much more fluid disaplaced over stock.

I'd be happy to have the engagement point high. Case in point, now you know that the clutch is disengaged. At higher RPM, it becomes more of an issue as the force required to disengage the clutch actually increases with RPM. In which case its simply your perception that needs to change ie this is a good thing to have happen for the engagement point. Engage low and I'd worry.

I wouldn't do that myself just because you are know not letting the clutch fully release like it should. Which will cause in premature wear on a a clutch disk