SOM_of_a_Beach

Hello,

I'm back from my work induced hiatus with some disposable income so, its time to upgrade my car's cooling system. As some of you may remember I have the D1SC but, the shop that originally built the setup had installed a single fan in there (the one that comes with the procharger kit) when they buillt it about 2 years ago.

Because of this and the stock radiator, I can't use the a.c. in sizzling Miami. And if I get stuck in slow moving traffic, I have run the a.c. to blow hot air into the car in order to drop the temperature under the hood.

I am thinking about taking it up to Norris Motorsports in Winter Haven, Florida and check them out.

If anyone has any ideas for me, please let me know. I was thinking about :

Be Cool radiator 80246 (1,535.99 from jegs) , and dual 11" fans #75007 (309.99 Jegs)

I know there is the SDCE setup with what looks like a 16" and 9" fan setup (399.95). But, it didn't have any spec details on the website.

I have also heard Ron Davis's name thrown around a bit..but, his web site had no spec details, no explanation of how his product differentiates itself in the industry or pricing.

Any words of advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Crystal

02NBMFormula

iTrader: (6)

i am having the same issue and i have parts on the floor waiting to be installed to allevate this problem. i got a lt1 radiator (93-96 fbody are 1.3inch think, ls1 is .9 inch) and a 8 or 9 inch spal fan from epp. the lt1 radiator i bought from a place in miami, t/a creations for $50 plus shipping. i believe the issue with the bigger radiators, i.e. be-cool and ron davis, are that the raditor to blower hat fitment is too close, although i have seen it done on one of the project cars at epp.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

I've dealt with all the possible cures when I was having problems, which ended up being my EWP.

If you're willing to cut the car, you can get the stock fans back in there and they really can't be beat.

The next best case (what I did) is get a big aluminum radiator and buy a spal 9" puller fan. The fan can be installed on the ATI shroud you already have and you will basically have the SDCE setup. A search here will get you the correct part number for the fan. Make sure the tune is good too, too much timing can cause excessive heat.

IMO, you will probably never get it to where you can run the A/C in 100 degree temps unless you're at highway speed.

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Be-Cool is way overpriced, IMO. Griffin quality is as good and they cost about 1/3 of that for a high-end, dual 1.5" core aluminum rad.

Jim

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

If you think Be-Cool radiators are overpriced, check out Ron David ones

Keith

02NBMFormula

iTrader: (6)

im interested in the stock fans, got any more details???

veee8

iTrader: (40)

I have a nice Modine LT1 auto radiator for sale if you are interested, I also have a LS1 rad for sale 2, it is way thinner than the LT1. Save me the trouble of putting it on ebay. Shoot me a PM.

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

I was having similar problems. Running hotter than I would like with the D1 and the front mount. about 225-230 around down and 205-210 highway. I installed a 160 T stat today. And sitting and idling my temps were 175-190 First time my fan has every tuned off and cycled back on with the procharger set up. I did take of for a short drive then and my ECT stayed around 180-190. I ordered the 9 inch spiral fan from EPP I think that will take care of all my cooling problems for now

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

I went to Evans waterless coolant and a huge Griffin dual core rad for my FI rig. I believe it gives you more protection against detonation with its 300+ degree boiling point. I run no thermostat in the summer and a 160 in the winter (NorCal winter is mild) because if I don't run the thermo in cool weather (<65 degrees) I have overCOOLING issues and foul plugs. The Griffin has a 12" and a 10" e-fan attached to the rear, and a large B&M oil cooler in front, away from the FMIC. This has solved my cooling problems completely.

Jim