Kamin

I did search but we all know how AWESOME (see: not awesome) the search feature works on this board.

Im going to be changing my header setup in my car. right now i have a pair of heavily modified hooker block hugger shorties. i want to squeeze out some more power and get the most ridiculous looking thing i can in there (see equal length tube manifolds much like full race builds). also going dual 3" pipes with no mufflers and a turndown at the diff haha

anyway, ive never built a set of headers before. but being the moron that i am, i am going to dive in head first. I know a thing or two about design and theory but nothing specific to the lsx motors. my biggest question is what length tube should i aim for before i put the collector on? i keep finding somewhere in the low 30"+ length but i know how important that little detail is and would like to be sure.

i am somewhat limited on space but have no problems throwing in some small radius bends forward then back to get my length i want and save some room. in fact that will actually benefit me because it would look cooler and as much as i hate to admit it. looking cool is half of the fun

any tips and tricks so this is the least painful experience possible for me?

babydeuce

iTrader: (24)

I really cant help with the theory aspect, but I do want to chime in on your post. Sometimes jumping in with both feet is the way to make things happen. My welding skill is mediocre at best, but I could not afford to have someone build my headers for me, so I took the dive. I must say that I am very satisfied with the outcome of my en devour, and would do it again without question.

Go slow, take your time, and if you dont like what you start out with, dont hesitate to go back and change it.

Good luck!

Jack

Ram Air IV

I just built my first headers. About the design there is a web page that will help you calculate the length of both primary and secondary tubes.
(http://www.headerdesign.com) You will probably need 32-33" length for the primary tubes. You need to have patience, it is time consuming to build headers but I think it was fun. Except my TIG-weld machine I did not have any top end equipment just a hack saw and a measuring-tape. Good luck / M

V8Rumble

iTrader: (9)

Ram Air IV, that's awesome! They look great!

babydeuce, reading what you had to say has given me a little encouragement with what I'm doing (link below). Thank you!

I thought about building headers myself, but then I decided to save a little bit of work & go in a different direction. Don't know if that's an idea that might work for you or not.

If you decide to "roll your own", here's another link that may be worthwhile for ya..

Steve VanS

iTrader: (1)

Looks like fun ... be sure to leave room to get the plugs in and out, along with the plug wires ...

ssduane

iTrader: (3)

I recently built my own also. I started with the remost header tube first on both side, tucking them away as much as possible. Trying to keep the primary tubes 30-36" in length. Tack weld the tubes/pieces then fully removed each tube to fully weld pieces. Put them back in, retacked to flange, tacked up collectors, removed and fully welded flanges and collector. Make sure you have spark plugs and wires to make sure you have clearance, I didn't and will have to "clearance" one tube. I used a sawsalls to cut tubes, another person recommended using a belt sander to smooth the tubes before tacking, to give a nice smooth transition. Also, make sure you leave room for other things that need to be ran, fuel lines, brake lines, electrical....... good luck.

IHeartTurbo

I'll be watching this as I want to build my own longtubes eventually. Keep us updated.

gtpvette

iTrader: (2)

It can be done,,,, I did mine. I did it like SSDUANE, cut (abrasive chop saw) and fitted the 4 tubes oin each side, tacked them, pulled the tubes off and had a local welder TIG them. Next, refit tubes to flange and install collector, tack then have them TIGed. Next Ceramic coating.

I used the GM flange,,, a real nice part. Then 1 5/8" tube. A bit smaller than what most run but for my application it should be good. Also, I ordered a bunch of U's and J's as well a a box of misc. bends, these I assume were mistakes from headers the supplier builds. I ended up using mostly the misc bends,,, go figure, I still have a huge box of U's and J's left.

Building:



Completed:

CaseyEaterMach1

Something you probably know already but the easiest way to measure if have equal lengths is to cap the ends and fill with liquid. If every one takes the same amount you have obviously they are equal.

Skele4door

iTrader: (1)

They are offering good advice. The only step I'd add is after you get all the tubes and collectors tacked up, tack the primaries to the flanges and then try to remove the headers. Sometimes a little bit of clocking one way or the other will allow you to r&r the headers without having to jack the engine up or remove other components.

Kamin

this is some awesome info guys, thank you very much.

i already ordered all my parts including the big *** box-o-bending mistakes for cheap and im actually kind of excited to try this.

ill be sure to update this thread as i get working on it

ssvolvo

I've done 3 sets. LOTS of time involved. Unless you have full on race setup stick to basics. 1-3/4 primary for lsstreet engines. Around 34 inches. If they are within 4 or 5 inches go for it. I had block huggers on my old Volvo and they were horrible. Made my own set long tubes and gained 45 hp....REALLY. You won't be let down. Take time and make sure you have NO air leaks especially if you are running a wide band 02 as they are quite sensitive. Good luck.

Google headers by ed or stahl headers for parts. Stainless is spendy. $1500 in my last Volvo exhaust front to rear but it lasts and won't crack like mild steel if you decide to wrap or have coated.

Kamin

haha i actually ordered my stuff from Stahl. and 45 hp?!?! WOW. i know these are going to give me a good gain but thats WAY more than i expected.

i am going with a 1 7/8, this car is a 100% dedicated road race/drift car. my biggest worry is losing too much low end but i have a custom grind cam that put down 330wtq at 1700 rpm so i dont think i can possibly lose that much low end haha

bgblockelcamino

iTrader: (9)

i just finished my headers last night. i am doing 6.0 4l80 in 86 el camino
i used my old big block headers for starting point. just cut the pipes off and rerouted the tubes to fmate up to LS1 flanges. they didn't turn out too bad. just have to finish welding them and ready for install.

Ram Air IV

Hi !
Here is some more picture of the headers fabrication. The most difficult thing was to build the headers so it was possible to mount them with the engine mounted.
M

bgblockelcamino

iTrader: (9)

mine started out as big block a body headers
i had them on my el camino when i had the big block i just cut them up and made them fit the lsx motor

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

bgblockelcamino: was/is your car column shift? I want to buy/build a set of headers for my swap (still running f-body manifolds and cats) but I still want to be able to have my shift indicator work......which requires the column shift style linkage

bgblockelcamino

iTrader: (9)

well when i had my big block in there i had the column shift and cleared fine. but had th400 in there. now i have 6.0 4l80 so not too sure. i am using a center console out of SS now with floor shifter. if i still had the linkage i am sure i could work around it though. the Driver side was much more difficult to make in comparison to the passenger side though.