Just got Predator: any basic suggestions on adjustment?
08-06-2003, 11:05 AM
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Launching!
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Just got Predator: any basic suggestions on adjustment? 2001 Firehawk
A4
.323
JBA short headers
Holley powershot air filter
That's all the mods I have other than an electric cutout.
Anyone know of some changes via Predator that I can make right now without being on the dyno? I figure someone may have some numbers that basically always work with a similar setup. I have a dyno tune scheduled, but the tuner has never tuned an LS1 nor used Predator, so now I'm thinking of backing out and finding another place. Thanks!!!
A4
.323
JBA short headers
Holley powershot air filter
That's all the mods I have other than an electric cutout.
Anyone know of some changes via Predator that I can make right now without being on the dyno? I figure someone may have some numbers that basically always work with a similar setup. I have a dyno tune scheduled, but the tuner has never tuned an LS1 nor used Predator, so now I'm thinking of backing out and finding another place. Thanks!!!
08-06-2003, 12:08 PM
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Re: Just got Predator: any basic suggestions on adjustment? Use the Dyno, as long as he has wideband. Ok, install performance tune first. Then use the save feature, i think under options, or install tune...you can PM me later for this one (this saves the vehicle info). Once you install perf. tune, it will save your factory tune in its memory.
Next, you can adjust shift points and rpm, and fan settings by going to the "modify parameters" and then "set parameters" as for fuel and timing. Before you get to dyno, or at it (although better before), use the "monitor live data" and look at the following:
Spark- this is your timing and you want to see what it is at WOT. Do a couple WOT blasts and watch what it is. write it down. Should be around 30*.
KR (all the way at bottom of list) make sure you have NONE. If you have some, you need to see if there is too much timing (highly doubtful) low octane gas, or what.
You can look at the B1S1 & B2S1 (front O2's) at WOT and they should be around 880-920mV. These are narrow band, so they are not real accurate for telling what the A/F ratio is, but if you hav knock, and O2s show like 760mV you are lean..
As for shift, decrease time and increase pressure will give you nice snappy (sometimes a little too much for tractino purposes) shifts at WOT. Adjust the speed in increments of 1-2 mph, and raise the limiter only if you have a cam. If not, no need to change the mph or rpm for shifts, just stick to the pressure and time.
Fan settings, even without a t-stat, you can still keep engine cooler than now, by lowering the fan setting. first one is fan 1 on, set around 177*, next is fan 1 off, set to 174*(or any number lower than fan on) and repeat for fan 2 on and off. I have my fan 2 on at 8* higher than 1.
Once you get a wideband reading, you can adjust your WOT fuel usig the modify parameters, and then set...then use the PE table. if for instance your AFR is 12:1, and you WANT a 13.1:1, then adjust - 2.5*, make another run, and thats it. For timing, once you get your fuel down, you can play with the timing, it will only allow for +2* or minus 2* at WOT, although mine was +/- 4.8*, and that was cool. Remember the leaner you get the more susceptible to detonation you are, so if you can run 32* w/ no KR, and then 30* w/ no KR and the Performance doesnt change, go w/ the 30*.
After all this, if you can, autotap your car, send the autotap file ( log a cruise, a few WOT, and a little idle) to your vendor, as well as the saved vehicle info, and the settings info on yoru paramters. With all this they can make a custom tune, like delete your rear O2's, COT, adjust Torque Management (if you want to), and the pretty much everything else from idle to AFR.
Sorry for being long, but wanted to cover most the bases. if you dont get an autotap log, you can use the wideband info, and the saved data, and of course your personal requests.
Good-luck,
Charlie.
Next, you can adjust shift points and rpm, and fan settings by going to the "modify parameters" and then "set parameters" as for fuel and timing. Before you get to dyno, or at it (although better before), use the "monitor live data" and look at the following:
Spark- this is your timing and you want to see what it is at WOT. Do a couple WOT blasts and watch what it is. write it down. Should be around 30*.
KR (all the way at bottom of list) make sure you have NONE. If you have some, you need to see if there is too much timing (highly doubtful) low octane gas, or what.
You can look at the B1S1 & B2S1 (front O2's) at WOT and they should be around 880-920mV. These are narrow band, so they are not real accurate for telling what the A/F ratio is, but if you hav knock, and O2s show like 760mV you are lean..
As for shift, decrease time and increase pressure will give you nice snappy (sometimes a little too much for tractino purposes) shifts at WOT. Adjust the speed in increments of 1-2 mph, and raise the limiter only if you have a cam. If not, no need to change the mph or rpm for shifts, just stick to the pressure and time.
Fan settings, even without a t-stat, you can still keep engine cooler than now, by lowering the fan setting. first one is fan 1 on, set around 177*, next is fan 1 off, set to 174*(or any number lower than fan on) and repeat for fan 2 on and off. I have my fan 2 on at 8* higher than 1.
Once you get a wideband reading, you can adjust your WOT fuel usig the modify parameters, and then set...then use the PE table. if for instance your AFR is 12:1, and you WANT a 13.1:1, then adjust - 2.5*, make another run, and thats it. For timing, once you get your fuel down, you can play with the timing, it will only allow for +2* or minus 2* at WOT, although mine was +/- 4.8*, and that was cool. Remember the leaner you get the more susceptible to detonation you are, so if you can run 32* w/ no KR, and then 30* w/ no KR and the Performance doesnt change, go w/ the 30*.
After all this, if you can, autotap your car, send the autotap file ( log a cruise, a few WOT, and a little idle) to your vendor, as well as the saved vehicle info, and the settings info on yoru paramters. With all this they can make a custom tune, like delete your rear O2's, COT, adjust Torque Management (if you want to), and the pretty much everything else from idle to AFR.
Sorry for being long, but wanted to cover most the bases. if you dont get an autotap log, you can use the wideband info, and the saved data, and of course your personal requests.
Good-luck,
Charlie.
08-06-2003, 10:42 PM
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Re: Just got Predator: any basic suggestions on adjustment? Thanks for all the info, I will print it out. I have decided to delay the dyno tune until I return to Calif. where I know some LS1 folk who can do it. The local guy has never done an LS1 nor Predator, so I don't feel too good about spending $140 for that type of service.
08-07-2003, 02:00 AM
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Re: Just got Predator: any basic suggestions on adjustment? Ok what if you change stuff before you install the tune?? Should I reset the computer to stock and then redo everything or will it be ok how it is??
08-07-2003, 04:12 AM
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Re: Just got Predator: any basic suggestions on adjustment? Not really. You have to remember stock tune is a compromise between efficiency and power. I have installed the performance tune (generic) and then added cam, ran it like that until recently when I got my custom tune update. BUT you need to send the information needed for the tune, and let them know "hey my LTFT's are this...my AF is this....my Timing is this.....USING ?????? TUNE" (stock or tune , or 2, etc..)