Alright One last electrical question.
05-10-2008, 05:29 PM
#1
Alright One last electrical question. Ok i have alldata and I have every 5.3 swap thread known to man under my nose however the 3 wire hookup for th 2001 GMC yukon denali with DBW is diffrent from jeepinete's hookup, I will attach the fuseblock wiring diagram for any to view. basicly what i need is the Ign switch input to run to the fusebox, i cant find on alldata the input all of them say Ign voltage but none say ign input or whatever, any help is appreciated.
05-13-2008, 10:05 PM
#7
Well I dug for a couple hours today and I cannot find my underhood fuse box, so I can`t take any pics.
After looking at it I think that the problem you were having is that you were looking at the wiring harness to find the connector. The pin that you need will be on the bottom of the underhood fuse box, and you probably didn`t get the connector that plugs into it. You could either try to buy the plug, or just solder a wire directly to the pin on the fuse panel.
Connector C1 comes from the vehicle wiring and goes to the fuse center.
Connector C2 goes from the fuse center to the harness.
Connector C3 goes from the fuse center to the back of the truck (think fuel pump)
C0nnector C100 has wires that used to go into the cab
Heres a shortened description on how to hook it up
C1 connector (GM designation) (light grey color) contains the starter solenoid wire, position C10, purple with white trace. Connect this to the wire that went to your old starter solenoid. Also, A9, pink, is switched ignition return from the ignition switch. Connect this to the circuit that used to power the ignition coil.
C2 connector black Transmission power is supplied from socket F2 on connector C2 of the under hood fuse block. In a round about way that power comes from the in cab fuse block. Remove that socket from connector C2 and move it to pocket B9 on connector C2. B9 is fused by fuse #24 (ETC Fuse, not normally used). That fuse, and INJA, INJB and ECM1, run off of the same relay (IGN1 Relay), and therefore is switched 12V
C3 connector( Lighting, red). F1, grey, is the fuel pump switched power. Connect directly to the fuel pump.
C100
A Not needed
B Not needed
C Not needed
D Vehicle speed sensor output from computer, this is a 4000 pulse per mile square wave output, it will work for GM speedometers and some aftermarket speedos, other aftermarket speedos need a direct signal from the VSS
E To brake torque converter clutch switch. You need a switch that provides +12V power to this wire when the car is running and then cuts power when you press the brake pedal. You may have a cruise control switch that does this already there or you may have to add a switch. If you need a switch you can use a microswitch from radioshack, just make a bracket to hold the switch behind the arm of the brake pedal so that when the pedal is at rest the switch is depressed and when you push the brake pedal down the switch opens and loses contact. If you need to add a switch you can get the power for that switch from an ignition hot fuse (IE: the fuse that used to provide power to your coil.)
F Not needed
G To service engine soon light, (- output) Hook this to one side of a 12V light bulb and hook the other side of the bulb to an ignition hot fuse (IE: the fuse that used to provide power to your coil).
H Serial data output to DLC connector terminal #2
J Not needed
K Tachometer output (this is a 4 cylinder, two pulse per revolution output)
L Not needed
M Not needed
N Not needed
P Not needed
R Not needed
S Not needed
C152A
None of the wires in this connector are needed
Hook the main power wire from the underhood fuse center to the battery.
I attached pics of all the connectors that I could find Pics for
After looking at it I think that the problem you were having is that you were looking at the wiring harness to find the connector. The pin that you need will be on the bottom of the underhood fuse box, and you probably didn`t get the connector that plugs into it. You could either try to buy the plug, or just solder a wire directly to the pin on the fuse panel.
Connector C1 comes from the vehicle wiring and goes to the fuse center.
Connector C2 goes from the fuse center to the harness.
Connector C3 goes from the fuse center to the back of the truck (think fuel pump)
C0nnector C100 has wires that used to go into the cab
Heres a shortened description on how to hook it up
C1 connector (GM designation) (light grey color) contains the starter solenoid wire, position C10, purple with white trace. Connect this to the wire that went to your old starter solenoid. Also, A9, pink, is switched ignition return from the ignition switch. Connect this to the circuit that used to power the ignition coil.
C2 connector black Transmission power is supplied from socket F2 on connector C2 of the under hood fuse block. In a round about way that power comes from the in cab fuse block. Remove that socket from connector C2 and move it to pocket B9 on connector C2. B9 is fused by fuse #24 (ETC Fuse, not normally used). That fuse, and INJA, INJB and ECM1, run off of the same relay (IGN1 Relay), and therefore is switched 12V
C3 connector( Lighting, red). F1, grey, is the fuel pump switched power. Connect directly to the fuel pump.
C100
A Not needed
B Not needed
C Not needed
D Vehicle speed sensor output from computer, this is a 4000 pulse per mile square wave output, it will work for GM speedometers and some aftermarket speedos, other aftermarket speedos need a direct signal from the VSS
E To brake torque converter clutch switch. You need a switch that provides +12V power to this wire when the car is running and then cuts power when you press the brake pedal. You may have a cruise control switch that does this already there or you may have to add a switch. If you need a switch you can use a microswitch from radioshack, just make a bracket to hold the switch behind the arm of the brake pedal so that when the pedal is at rest the switch is depressed and when you push the brake pedal down the switch opens and loses contact. If you need to add a switch you can get the power for that switch from an ignition hot fuse (IE: the fuse that used to provide power to your coil.)
F Not needed
G To service engine soon light, (- output) Hook this to one side of a 12V light bulb and hook the other side of the bulb to an ignition hot fuse (IE: the fuse that used to provide power to your coil).
H Serial data output to DLC connector terminal #2
J Not needed
K Tachometer output (this is a 4 cylinder, two pulse per revolution output)
L Not needed
M Not needed
N Not needed
P Not needed
R Not needed
S Not needed
C152A
None of the wires in this connector are needed
Hook the main power wire from the underhood fuse center to the battery.
I attached pics of all the connectors that I could find Pics for
