Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

since i got quoted 300 to do it, i would like to do it myself. what would be a good gun to use for the primer/base/clear coat?

the rock chips and spider-webbing have pissed me off long enough, its the only part of the car that looks like ****.

im also gonna be going with onyx black headlight coves and grill, so id need to swap canisters of paint too.

02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

I hear ya man. My car's paint isn't bad at all except for the front.

Good Luck!

Matts94Z28

iTrader: (6)

I am in the process of painting my car myself, The front clip was the worst part about the car. I had to fill some rock chips with fibergalss (like bondo) then I had to use a DA with 320 to get the webs out. After that I went over it with some 800 on the DA and then finished it off with some 1000 wet paper. It's a PITA but take your time and It will look good.

You could use any decent name brand paint like dupont/standox/PPG. IMO, PPG is the best when it comes to clear... Dupont seems like it's orange peel in a can but it will look good with alot of buffing.

Here is a shot of the bumper after the first round of sanding...

cvalliere

iTrader: (1)

Ok some questions. Why fiberglass? Fiberglass is too rigid when fully cured and will not stick to plastic, a simple spot putty will work, and fyi fiberglass has no purpose to be used on a 4th. gen. F-Body since there is nothing made of fiberglass on them.

Why are you sanding with 320, 800 and then wet sanding with 1000. Sand the spider webs out with 240-320 and prime it with a 2k primer. Then either wetsand it with 600 and paint it or dry sand it with 320-400 seal, basecoat and clear. Done

lmt0705

iTrader: (7)

I agree, sand the spiders out, use a urothane primer so you dont get bullseyes, block your primer out then base and clear. you can use icing for small repairs but you do need to be careful if you do, if you flex the bumper to much after it will crack. if someone is going to do it right for 300.00 let them do it. I spent over that just for my clear gun. and paint will be half of that price already

transambandit

iTrader: (6)

To be honest with you, unless you plan on painting a lot of stuff it will cost you nearly 300 bucks in supplies alone to paint it yourself, a decent gun will cost you 75-100, paint will run you anywhere from 40-100 bucks depending on how much you get, clear coat, reducer, sand paper, primer etc will all run you around 60+. If all you want done is the bumper have the shop do it for you.

Matts94Z28

iTrader: (6)

It's not your traditional fibergalss buddy, it's just like bondo but its a little harder and is alot easier to work with and you don't have to worry about it cracking as easily, which is bound to happen on something a flexible as the front clip.

Beyond Static

iTrader: (5)

also, don't forget about using an adhesion promoter in the spots were you sand into the plastic. You can get aerosol cans of bulldog around $8.

You want your filler flexible. If not, it will crack. Icing works great for rock chips, but I prefer Evercoat's glaze. It's a little thinner

cvalliere

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I know what your talking about, fiberglass urathane filler not fiberglass resin. Still don't wanna use it. it wont stick.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

i was actually just gonna sand it down level then prime/base/base/clear/clear then put it back on. it isnt that simple when it comes to the rock chips and spider webbing?

99T/A

I beg to differ the last time I checked the door skins of the 4th gen F-bodies ARE fiberglass as is the inside edge of the door. Now I might be wrong but when my dad knocked a hole in the door of his 95 T/A chopped fiberglass strands went everywhere.

v7guy

iTrader: (1)

The doors aren't fiberglass either, it is a composite but it's not fiberglass. I believe it's called SMC.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

SMC = sheet molded compound. Made from different resin and material than traditional fiberglass. Yes, it's fiber-y, but it's not "fiberglass". The doors, hardtop, and rear decklid are made from the stuff. Also the hoods on the SS/WS6 cars.

I used Evercoat's Polyflex on my Fiero nose as a filler. It bends just like the urethane nose does. No cracking when bending there.

I agree with the above guys though, if you only want to save $300, it won't be worth it, unless you intend to paint a LOT more than the nose. The jug of Polyflex alone was $30. But I have several cars that I'm working on.

bdyman

he is correct it is SMC
if iam not mistaken your bumper might be polyurathene, and the spider cracking your seeing will sand right out just go down to the plastic, small chips will also sand down no need for a filler
again i suggest using the correct repair material for plastic, like 3m or fusor, i dont likle using a finishing glaze it wont stick use the correct stuff
but i agree 350 is cheap to redo a bumper, paint guns arent cheap, material isnt either, so ya might want to have it done

99T/A

Ok well that makes sense that it is like fiberglass but a different material. One thing I have a question about is the items you are talking about being made out of SMC. Again I might be wrong about this but it just doesn't make sense to me. I have a 25.5 94 Formula I am in the process of building. It is a hardtop car. Now if what you said is true about the doors, hardtop, and rear decklid being made out of SMC how come the doors and decklid are solid as a rock but I can put my hand on the roof and it will push in and flex just like the front fenders and bumpers do. Is the roof of a hardtop really SMC just a lot thinner than the doors and such or could it be made out of the same material the front fenders are made of? I hope I am not souding like I am trying to step on any feet here, I am just trying to understand all of this before I start the bodywork on this car. No trying to hijack either.

wabmorgan

For only $300.... just it done. Enjoy the day and go have a beer or do something else with your time.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

To be honest I'm not 100% on the roof, I *thought* it was SMC though. Never have had to get in to one. I know it is on my Fiero (roof, hood, rear deck are all SMC).

You can get fillers that are both SMC and fiberglass compatible. Just don't go trying to use plain fiberglass resin on SMC, it won't hold. http://www.evercoat.com has a slew of products that work. I have some Metal Glaze, Poly Flex, and Fiber Tech from them. I used Metal Glaze and Fiber Tech when I repaired my SS spoiler (bought it with the tips broken, and then I crunched the rear trailing edge on accident). It turned out great. That is, until my big fertilizer spreader fell off the shelf and on to it. The spoiler hates me.

wabmorgan

That is WHY I refuse to have ANYTHING hanging on the wall of my garage.