Single Digit Club - BBC in 4th gen

Can you guys post up some photos of your BBC setup's in your 4th gen and the car weight and weight distribution, trying to figure out if I'll need to set the engine back or not.

??????????????? Why would you move the motor back.

Though the weight distribution would be bad with a big inch BBC. Also with the weight being taken out of the car I thought it would be light in the ass.

There are a few BBC 4th Gens going 7's without the engine set back. I wouldn't mess with it for a street car, unless you just want to do it for fun.:D

Too late I already cut out the fire wall :nod: I don't care if it is super fast, I just want a bad ass pro street looking setup I can drive everyday of the week, plus putting the smash for a quick 300 ft at a stop light on some ricer would be great every now and then =)

Going pump gas this time with big motor and good cylinder head, it's 900+ hp or bust N/A. I wasn't thinking anything crazy, looks like I can go from 0-6" on how I am doing the firewall and going to tie in the cage and mid plate mounts. I am going with a lexan front window so I can notch it out for carb clearance.

Under the hood I am doing a wide fire wall, not just a set back section in the middle so access should be super easy with the rear of the shock towers cut out.

More pics, man. Sounds awesome.

I'll try to get some later I haven't had time to do much been getting stuff ready to ship out I sold and doing other stuff. Tomorrow I will have a good amount of time so I will try to get some more work done then take pics.

What's up with your car where is your updates?

What's up with your car where is your updates?

Me? I don't want to take things too far off the topic, but I haven't done much since getting it running. I'm waiting on a used rack + pinion as mines leaking. I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do for a radiator and condensor. I could go with a 40" x 12" in the center or twin 15"x18" units under the headlights. I want to get rid of the stock radiator mounts completely, that whole header panel, too. I'm trying to figure out the best way to rebuild the front with tubing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Custom%20Headlights/IMG_8254c.jpg

I also plan to tub the front wheel wells so I'm making sure I take everything into account.

Me? I don't want to take things too far off the topic, but I haven't done much since getting it running. I'm waiting on a used rack + pinion as mines leaking. I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do for a radiator and condensor. I could go with a 40" x 12" in the center or twin 15"x18" units under the headlights. I want to get rid of the stock radiator mounts completely, that whole header panel, too. I'm trying to figure out the best way to rebuild the front with tubing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Custom%20Headlights/IMG_8254c.jpg

I also plan to tub the front wheel wells so I'm making sure I take everything into account.

It's a web site, we type stuff on here, you can write whatever you want to in my thread. I have a power steering rack and pinion, I'll sell it to you cheap, unless you already got a deal on one. I'm going manual and it isn't like I need the one I got now lol, I sold my rims, so I won't even have tires on it.

Let me know....

I already bought it. Should be here tomorrow.

I think some moly or aluminum tubing bent to match the shape of the nose, tucked and hidden that is fiber glassed to the nose skin would be cool. Stock body work, but hidden frame and you ditch all the extra radiator braces and stuff.

I already bought it. Should be here tomorrow.

LOL figures...

I think some moly or aluminum tubing bent to match the shape of the nose, tucked and hidden that is fiber glassed to the nose skin would be cool. Stock body work, but hidden frame and you ditch all the extra radiator braces and stuff.
I only have a wire feed MIG so those 2 are out. I'll be use steel tubing. I plan to reinforce the springmounts real good as I probably won't have room for tubing along the outer edge. I plan to tuck real fat tires so I'm going to need a lot of room for them. I may even add an X brace over the engine. I want the front end real tight for handling purposes.

I know of only one guy to tub his front wheels, but I've never seen anyone do what I plan to do so I just need to think everything through real well.

To support the nose I plan to run some tubing right along the front. That's mainly in case someone leans on it. I'll be using a fiberglass nose so it will be fairly stiff as is.

If you use a fiber glass nose you'll still have to glass and mount up a structure, you can weld aluminum with a mig. How much room do you need to notch the front for clearance?

Are you using dropped spindles and an air bag set up?

If you use a fiber glass nose you'll still have to glass and mount up a structure, you can weld aluminum with a mig. How much room do you need to notch the front for clearance?

Are you using dropped spindles and an air bag set up?
Those noses don't need any support. The guy making them and his customers don't use any, but you have to be carefull about people leaning on them. They seem to hold up fine, but I wanted to add a little support for insurance.

When you saw notch the front, do you mean the wheel tubs for tire clearance? I think about 2". I want to bring the wells right up to the hood if possible.

Bags and drop spindles are the plan. I've already worked out the bag part, but I'm still working on the spindle idea.

Do you still have your power steering pump? I may need one.

Those noses don't need any support. The guy making them and his customers don't use any, but you have to be carefull about people leaning on them. They seem to hold up fine, but I wanted to add a little support for insurance.

When you saw notch the front, do you mean the wheel tubs for tire clearance? I think about 2". I want to bring the wells right up to the hood if possible.

Bags and drop spindles are the plan. I've already worked out the bag part, but I'm still working on the spindle idea.

Do you still have your power steering pump? I may need one.

I threw that in the trash a while back lol. The glass front you'll have to still make a frame, you need something to attach it to the body with in the front, then they usually have a couple fasteners hold it on the bottom in the back of the tire by the door.

Look at vfn's site they have diagrams. Ever consider a custom spindle? I am sure they can go more than 2".

Ever consider cutting off the stock shock towers and making custom upper and lower a-arms? The longer you make the arms the less it will change the geometry when you raise and lower it., then you could mount an air bag and shock setup out of the way and have full clearance to the hood above the tire, that thing would sit on the ground big time.

Below on some pics of the style of support bar I want to make as well as the E-1 front end. Since I don't need an intercooler I was thinking of mounting the radiator and condenser in the nose to make it look decent. Another option was to use a grill behind the openings.

I threw that in the trash a while back lol. The glass front you'll have to still make a frame, you need something to attach it to the body with in the front, then they usually have a couple fasteners hold it on the bottom in the back of the tire by the door.
The E-1 is handmade and is a bolt on piece using the factory mounting points. It's not a thin racing shell and it runs $400.

Ever consider a custom spindle? I am sure they can go more than 2".
2" will have the k-member on the ground. I don't need any lower.:lol:

Who makes custom spindles? (I can't afford $2K for billet units.)

Ever consider cutting off the stock shock towers and making custom upper and lower a-arms? The longer you make the arms the less it will change the geometry when you raise and lower it., then you could mount an air bag and shock setup out of the way and have full clearance to the hood above the tire, that thing would sit on the ground big time.
I have thought about moving the upper A-arm lower so I can use a cheap drop spindle from a different auto, but since I want to push this thing to 180+ I'm hesitant to try that. It's actually the difference in arm length that alters the camber curve. If the upper and lower arm are the same legnth and parallel, then the camber will stay the same at different ride heights. You also have to consider toe, caster and ackerman angles. To prevent bumpsteer your inner tie rod pivots need to line up with the lower A-arm pivot points so it's not as simple as it seems.

All that is done on road race stuff, you can do it! Look at my car, it's cut up big time, might as well go all out since your car will be down anyways.

I know a lot of racers over on the FRRAX forum and no one has done this kind of major surgery to their car. I once suggested removing the outer triangle support piece on the outside of the fender and they all booed me. No support at all. Bunch of chickens.

I made up these pics about a year ago. See if you agree with them.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%207/IMG_2517c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%207/DSCN00781b.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%207/IMG_2492h.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%207/IMG_2492c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%207/IMG_2492d.jpg

It seems very logical to add braces here and here, but the firewall is not very strong.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%207/IMG_2555Bbrace1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%207/IMG_2556bbrace2.jpg

Any idea how I can make the firewall stronger to act as a structural support
without cracking the windshield? I'm trying not to gut the dash out, but I might have to pull everything out, do all my welding and then put it back in. If you know of an easier way, let me know.

They make a strut tower brace that ties into the fire wall it forms a triangle.

They make a strut tower brace that ties into the fire wall it forms a triangle.
Those suck.

Then redesign it it and build your own... You can always run the front cage bars through the engine compartment and through the shock towers. You don't need a whole cage inside the car you could just run a bar straight across under the dash welded to each side of the body.

What do you think of this idea?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%207/IMG_8302c.jpg

Check out this pic of the CTS-V race car. Remember, the front wheel wells are raised and the front of the car lowered a huge amount. I figure they may have had to raise the inner shock towers as well. Check out the braces they use. Now that looks sweet.

I meant like this.

I meant like this.
There's not a lot of room to weld the bar on the drivers side. I'll have to look into it more.

I've thought about this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%207/FRConTA14copy.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Misc%207/DSCN00781c.jpg

I made these up before I decided to relocate the battery and other parts and before I decided to tub the front wheels.

Here's another car with a fabbed up front section.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/2576000-2576999/2576890_112_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/2576000-2576999/2576890_115_full.jpg

Are you cutting off the rear section of the shock tower? If not I would just run a bar to the back of the shock tower and call it good.

Are you cutting off the rear section of the shock tower?
I don't see any reason to. I'm really not sure why you cut yours. Does it give you more room?

BTW, there are electric PS pumps ($300) if you want to keep your rack, but not the engine mounted pump. I'm thinking of getting one myself and also run it to a hydraboost brake system. Then I can have power steering and power brakes with the engine off. Big cam making low vacuum? No problemo. Engine dies going down the road, no sweat.:D

I don't see any reason to. I'm really not sure why you cut yours. Does it give you more room?

BTW, there are electric PS pumps ($300) if you want to keep your rack, but not the engine mounted pump. I'm thinking of getting one myself and also run it to a hydraboost brake system. Then I can have power steering and power brakes with the engine off. Big cam making low vacuum? No problemo. Engine dies going down the road, no sweat.:D

I'm getting manual brakes and steering, with a good manual rack and skinnies the front wheel is easy to turn even from a dead stop.

I cut out the rear of my shock tower to save weight and give me more room, I could always mount a turbo on each side right there also if I went that route down the road.

Either way right now it was for weight and gives more room to work on the engine, I may or may not go with a removable front end, if I did working on the car with the extra metal removed makes it a snap to get to the spark plugs.

Too late I already cut out the fire wall I don't care if it is super fast, I just want a bad ass pro street looking setup I can drive everyday of the week, plus putting the smash for a quick 300 ft at a stop light on some ricer would be great every now and then =)

Ragen I had a question since I saw you live in California..... How are you going to drive this thing everyday of the week presumably on the street without it being smogged..... Just cause you pro street it doesn't mean it's suddenly smog exempt..... So I'm wondering how you are getting around that.... Or is it not going to be a tagged/reg'd streetcar????

FLIP THROUGH THE PAGES OF THIS SITE. PAUL'S A GOOD GUY AND BEEN WORKING ON THIS FOR AWHILE NOW. THE OWNER OF THE SHOP, TOM, DOES GREAT WORK...

http://www.otedesign.com/gallery/index.php?a=10

Ragen I had a question since I saw you live in California..... How are you going to drive this thing everyday of the week presumably on the street without it being smogged..... Just cause you pro street it doesn't mean it's suddenly smog exempt..... So I'm wondering how you are getting around that.... Or is it not going to be a tagged/reg'd streetcar????

It'll have tags and be licensed, pretty sure it won't pass smog :jest: My last car wasn't street legal, 33x16.5 slicks, and lexan windows isn't exactly dot approved. I have my old motor I could say was in it when it was "smogged" if I get popped.

By the way are you going to the LA Invasion? I'll be at the Monday memorial day drag racing in Fontana.

FLIP THROUGH THE PAGES OF THIS SITE. PAUL'S A GOOD GUY AND BEEN WORKING ON THIS FOR AWHILE NOW. THE OWNER OF THE SHOP, TOM, DOES GREAT WORK...

http://www.otedesign.com/gallery/index.php?a=10

Cool car thanks for the link :thumb:

Nice project! Gotta love the BBC.

I let all the pro charger and turbo cars go fast, I just want to make it down the track under 14 seconds my 1st pass with the 598 BBC nitrous motor I'm gonna build :)

:haha: under 14! I don't think that'll be a problem!

I've seen people crash or blow their stuff up 1st pass out :jest: Foot brake and make sure the wheels don't fall off is all I am doing first pass and check all the nuts and bolts and look for any extra leaks lol :chug:

I took my 1st car to the track 3 or 4 times before I even sprayed it.

It'll have tags and be licensed, pretty sure it won't pass smog My last car wasn't street legal, 33x16.5 slicks, and lexan windows isn't exactly dot approved. I have my old motor I could say was in it when it was "smogged" if I get popped

Well be careful cuz that's like a 2500 dollar ticket..... and a lifetime membership to the smog nazi club...

By the way are you going to the LA Invasion? I'll be at the Monday memorial day drag racing in Fontana

It's quite a haul for me on short notice and i've been taking a ton of time off of work with OTHER car stuff getting the car finished. I hit the dyno for final tuning on friday at noon so honestly the car isn't ready to make full passes until a few weeks. I'd hate to trailer to LA to make "shakedown" runs. If I go to LA it's going to be ALL OUT.... so i'll have to wait....

I know I need to move out of this BS state, I lived in Arizona and didn't even have to smog my car in the county I was in lol.

hmm after i built the engine i made 3 passes on engine, mainly so i didnt show my hand as far as the engine being changed, then during the first round of quick 8 i stood the thing on the bumper ...maybe i should have tried that sooner lol
the next time at the track first pass on the bumper again....with alot less nitrous in the progressive controller

Bah! a progressive kit, I'll run all 400 off the line :jest:

Hey Chris, where you been man? Any new pics of the car?

I finally started slicing on mine.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/JasonWW/Custom%20Headlights/IMG_8993b.jpg

I'll be fabbing a new 11 x 31 3" thick radiator up in the nose. I may slice off the whole front like you did, but I haven't made up my mind yet.